Ok I am desperate now and broke. My truck started running rough and lost all power with no warning. SEL came on code P1316. Code P0470. Took it to a mechanic as I am not really good with a wrench. He replaced the passenger side Valve cover gasket with a new one with all new wires and connectors. Didn't fix it. He then installed a manufactured IDM, Didn't fix it. He then did the Drivers side Valve cover gasket with the same new wires and connectors. Still not fixed.
It is acting a little different. Now if you shut it off let it sit just a few minutes restart it sounds awesome, take off runs good for about 2 - 3 mins. Then starts running rough and looses power. Took it to Auto Zone got the exact same codes P1316 and P0470. Any ideas?

 

The P1316 is really just a generic code that there is an issue with the injector wiring or IDM and that the IDM has stored codes.

Usually if you perform a KOEO selftest or BUZZ test before clearing the memory codes it will pull the stored codes from the IDM.

I would inspect the wiring near the 42 pin connector going over the DS valve cover and near the front lifting eye for possible chaffing, as well as near the DS shock tower.

Beyond that further diagnostics or inspection would be required. You might have bad wiring on the injector harness itself under the VC's or injector solenoids that might be taking out a bank or injector itself.

 

Thank you. I will try to locate the wires you are speaking of tomorrow. The guy who worked on it is suppose to see if he can borrow the machine to check it with also. We just put all new valve cover gaskets with the new wires on both sides.

 

Welcome to FTE Sharon. Sounds like it's time to break out a multi-meter and start checking some wiring. Did the shop ever determine which bank was shut down when the truck is running bad?

I'm guessing since they replaced the passenger side valve cover first, that's the side the problem is on. There's a good chance you have a bad injector solenoid. A bad solenoid will cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank of injectors. You need to get a multi-meter, set it to read ohms, and disconnect the flat, 9 pin connector on the inboard side of the valve cover.

Place the black lead on the center pin, or use a test lead with a clip on the end to contact the center pin. Then check the resistance on the 3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th pin. You will typically see a reading of around 3.something ohms. Look for one wire that is reading a bit different than the others. Typically 0.5 ohms or more. If the passenger side checks out, test the driver side. Pins 3,4,5,7 correspond to the injectors on that side from front to back. If you find one that's off, pull the valve cover, unplug that injector, clear the codes, and start the truck back up. The truck will have a miss and set a CEL (because the injector is unplugged), but it won't default into shutting down the entire bank and running like a paint shaker.

The fix for this is either a new injector, or a new soleniod, which are harder to find. If you've got a junkyard near you that has a deal on used 7.3 injectors, the soleniod (square brown box on top of injector) can be swapped out with just 4 screws.

Anyway, the ohm test won't cost you anything but some time, and will likely give you some answers. Post up the ohm readings from each injector and we'll help you go from there.

 

Welcome to FTE! I'll do some translation for you... I know how overwhelming all the lingo can be in the beginning.

There is a 42-pin connector over the driver-side valve cover gasket - this is the grand Pooh-Bah connection to all things electrical on top of the engine. You don't need to be familiar with all the workings of the sensors, but you need to know if there is good continuity to each of your injectors. There is a Driver-side supply line to the even-numbered injectors, and the Passenger supply goes to the odd-numbered. A multimeter probe (set to ohms) on the D will allow you to put the probe on each of the even-numbered injectors and check the system for continuity (about 3 ohms, but all equal to each other).



Your mechanic is shot-gunning. Anybody who reads a lot of codes on these rigs knows that the system likes to implicate the IDM, #3 and #8 injectors, the Keep Alive Memory, and the key switch. Any time you get these codes, a couple of tests are needed before you go blasting away with the Buck$Zooka. The UVCH wiring is always a good thing to replace, but the valve cover gaskets need to be inspected/tested before condemning. Your guy is uncomfortable with the 7.3L and he's crap-shooting with your wallet.

For what it's worth, I am not a mechanic... I'm just a tech-head that had a lot of problems with his truck, bought diagnostic software and gauges, ordered the troubleshooting manual and wiring diagrams, and rolled up his sleeves. Does your mechanic have the Ford Powertrain Control and Emission Diagnostics manual? I do... he should. If not... get your truck outta there.

 

Thanks Guys. I am going to get a meter this morning. I have never used one but at this point I have to try to do this myself. Already out 500.00 on this and I am still stuck in Pa just really want to get it fixed so I can go home. I will try to do these test you have told me about. I will report back my findings when done. I am so glad I found this forum.

 

Let's revisit that "lost all power": If I'm reading this correctly, it just barely gets out of it's own way on a hill or freeway onramp. If this is the case, pull the connector off the Injector Control Pressure sensor (ICP pictured below) and look for oil in the connector. If oil is there, the seal of your sensor is sunk. You can clean the sensor out with electrical contact cleaner and do a temporary seal with dielectric grease (inexpensive blister pack from auto parts store). This can spur the 'Stroke short-term, but this is no substitute for a sensor swap [LINK]... the procedure is just to confirm the problem.

 

OK I admit defeat. Either I am very weak in my hands or there is some kind of trick. I can not unplug either 9 pin connector to test them. I press down a pull and only hurt my fingers. The 42 pin connector I found looks different from the one pictured so not sure I am looking at the right one. Trying to figure out how to open it up, wires come into the sides (end) of it. Manged to locate and check the ICP it is clean inside.

 

The 9 pin connectors are hard to get out, the 42 pin, has a bolt in the middle of it with the head on the outside, if you use a 10mm socket or wrench and loosen it, then you will see the pins to test as Tugly mentioned.

Where in PA are you "stuck". We have some very helpful and knowledgeable members in the NE.

 

I'm in Carlisle PA at the fairgrounds Off i81 exit 52

 

OK Got the 42 pin connector apart, I think I did it right
I got no reading on Cylinders #5 ,3 ,7 and 1 I got a reading of 3.2 on all the rest
Still trying to get the 9 Pin one apart to test there

 

That's a problem with the center wire on the passenger side valve cover gasket or harness. Odd... since your mechanic just replaced both components on both sides. You're on the case now. Another thing... since the mechanic just replaced the gasket, the connector might have a tight fit.

 

I know to you guys this is probably a dumb questions. It is a 9 pin connector, which one would be the center wire? Also is there a trick to pulling the connector I have tried everything except using something to push down on the prongs?

 

It's just a tight gasket holding it together, pulling it apart can take quite a bit of force. On a 9 pin connector, it is truly the "center" pin, with 4 towards the rear and 4 towards the front.

 

OK got the 9 pin connector apart. Tested it placing the black lead on the 5 (center) pin. Got nothing on any of the wires. Pulled the electrical tape off and didn't find anything apart, slightly pulled on all the wires and they all stayed together. Taped each wire individually and re plugged everything up started it and it run rough as it did at the start of all this mess.