In the effort of saving a few dollars, I'm trying to do some work myself. I've already done quite a bit of work on the EX including turbo o-rings, uvch, etc but I'm chasing a P1316 code. Both harness are after market and do not have the clip in the valve. I'm getting a #5 injector/idm code (P1275) with a buzz test on cold start but comes and goes when warm. Question 1) Could the P1316 & P1275 codes be directly related? 2) When changing the #5 injector, do I leave off the corresponding glow plug to bleed out the remaining oil/fuel after removing the old injector or do I need to remove all the glow plugs? 3) Or should I be patient since I added Hot Shot eliminator about 100 miles ago? I was getting the P1272 codes for injector #2 but haven't seen it for a while after oil change.

On a separate note, when I give a heavy acceleration, I get a P1211 code. I've replaced the ICP twice, once with a cheap amazon part and the latest time with a Motorcraft part. Could it be my IPR?

 

So you have new Dorman UVCH and gaskets? Check the external connector for burnt pins.

Before swapping out the injector exchange the solenoid with an adjacent hole, see if the problem follows.

If you pull the injector some oil and fuel will enter the cylinder. Crank the engine over by hand and it will spit out with some force, plop the VC on to prevent a mess. It will exit thru the injector hole, no need to pull the GP. Or you could pull the 42 pin connector and crank with the starter.

Did you use synthetic oil? Worn injectors will behave better with synthetic. Dunno if the Hot Shot will make any difference. Conventional wisdom on the 7.3 is no to oil additives, and yes to fuel additives.

Is the truck chipped or have a tune? That could explain the P1211 code.

Also inspect the underside of the big wire harness that goes to the 42 pin connector on the driver side. It can rub on the valve cover and short some wires there.

 

Ho many mmiles on the injectors? Have you ohmed the injectors from the 42 pin harness? If you find a discrepancy there keep chasing it closer to the injector. Some have had good luck with the dorman harnesses other not so much. I had a doorman harness I replaced because I couldn't get it to stop leaking.

I kept getting a code on my remained injectors so I finally bit the bullet and replaced them with new. I wish I would have gone new from the beginning.

Be sure to rule EVERYTHING else out before replacing injectors. Like said in the previous post you can swap solenoids but before that you might want to try ohming.

 

Thanks for the reply! Yes I have the Dorman gaskets, I install the passenger one myself and noted the connector on the engine side had oil on it. So I sprayed some cleaner for connectors in there and let it dry out then added some dielectric grease. I was going to swap out the old connector for the new pigtail to see if that could be the problem. I need to look at the driver side UVCH and inspect it more. I noted that was also a Dorman when I took off the VC. I only had this truck for about 1-2 months and think the previous owner just let it sit.....and sit.

Do you by chance have a pic of the the solenoid?

Just so I'm clear, if I decide to change the injector, I do not need to pull the GP and just turn the crankshaft a few times?!?

I just had the oil change the oil a couple of weeks ago and it was beyond gross. I noted the engine behaved better just with the oil change. No I did not use synthetic. Delo I believe.

The truck is bone stock, no chip as far as I know.

I did check on the wiring harness of the 42 pin and there was no chaffing but I plan on being preventative and putting some heat padding down there for it.

Also I had added an ATS turbo fooler last night and today I blew the new Ford ICP so I had a spare one I reinstalled off of Amazon for the time being......thoughts on the turbo fooler???

a screenshot....don't know if its helpful

 

The truck has 367,000 on it. I'll have to youtube it to find out how to ohm the harness. Could a P1275 code be caused from the solenoid and instead of the injector??? And I fell dumb after I just googled injector solenoid. I went to a salvage yard and bought 3 injectors (just as a place to start. I plan on upgrading all the injectors but first I'd like to enjoy the truck running near 100% as stock.

 

Could be the P1316 is an old code. If there is a kinda fresh UVCH from the PO then they replaced it, possibly due to the fault. Clear codes and see what comes back.


Correct. With the injector out there is a hole for the fuel/oil to escape. Don't need 2 holes.

Just noticed you're in SoCal so the temps are mild, so maybe dino vs synthetic oil is not critical. Unless the injectors are old as frikken Yoda and just done.

Say more about "blowing the ICP". I don't know what that means. Unless you have some mods like a billet turbo wheel and tunes that raise boost enough to caused defueling (23psi or so is the threshold, stock max is like 15psi) you don't need a boost fooler. But now that you have it, you should get a billet wheel and some tunes.

IPR, EBP, HPOP, and trans values look good for idle after a WOT run. The lowish number of 8 for IPR I'll attribute to the cheapo ICP. Should be more like 11, but it's not a concern. MAP I couldn't tell ya. InjPW is goofy but if it's just a decimal out of place then it is a concern. 2.6 ms is fine but 5.3 is ginormous and indicates a hot tune run amok. Ideally we'd want to see a graph of ICP and HPOP during a WOT run. If the ICP drops off under WOT that's a good sign of crappy tunes. Immediately after WOT the ICP will spike, and the 3k psi max on the gauge is pretty normal.

If you want to spend the next 3 days dorking around with Torque Pro on your cell phone to get the output readings fixed, check out this thread.

Do you have gauges other than TP?

 

Those numbers look normal for a truck that has been started with TP running. If you hold off starting Torque Pro until the engine is running, then we can see the min/max on a running-only engine. As awwlberininf350 mentioned, a log of the truck running that includes a WOT run up a hill can tell us a lot. Torque Pro is tricky to set up logging, but FORScan is a much easier app to work with for troubleshooting purposes.

I will be in total amazement if those injector O-rings don't need to be replaced. You can search "Cody test".

 

Hmm. So was nobody else concerned of max IPR at 63%?

Boost of 9psi to 50 EBP tells me boost leak, but it could be where the fooler is set to. Idk where that brand is set

 

Hye, Okie from Muskogee, I think that may be what @Tugly is getting at when he said wait to start the app until after the truck is started. You can get some weird #s if you start it before starting the truck.

 

Ah. However its good for watching cranking voltage.

Granted ForScan is way easier to learn when trying ro troubleshoot than Torque. Torque is way more purty for electronic gauges while driving tho

 

When I got the truck from the previous owner, the code was there so I'm thinking of replacing the the driver side UVCH just to be thorough. I clear the codes everyday just about.


Cool

I dont know how old they are.......

I went to the park with the kids yesterday and after a WOT, the truck started to surge. Now I noticed earlier that the tin nut on the IPR was backwards so I spun it around. I thought it was that but when I got home and popped the hood, I disconntected the ICP and found oil (this is with the non-cheapo). When I started to go and remove the ICP, I noticed the plastic female connector on the ICP was tilted to one side and broke away for the metal part of it. LOL?!? To be honest, the only reason why I have the boost fooler is due to a feeling of no power going up a hill on a daily basis. AFAIK, the turbo wheel is stock.

I just downloaded FORScan lite (cant find non-lite version. Now if i need to buy some software to run it on my laptop i can. Eventually I'll be tuning this truck so maybe I should invest in some software......?

I just downloaded FORScan and Ill be running it without the boost fooler on just for getting stock readings and all.

I was kinda freaked out of the 63% on the IPR!?!? Should I be concerned about that???? I plan on removing the boost fooler. If I remember correctly, I was getting up to low 20's of boost without it. I was thinking there was something wrong with my new wastegate so thats the main reason why I bought the boost fooler.


THANKS FOR THE INPUT GUYS!!!

 

I believe those numbers are after the engine is cranked. I usually start the app after the engine is cranked for A/C purposes.......otherwise my kids are the ones that get cranked! lol

Good to know....

 

Maybe, maybe not. If it goes above 65% you definately have red flags. Could just be an injector oring leaking oil by as mentioned by Tugly, or a weak HPOP, or high FIPW with everything else completely healthy, or a bad oring on the IPR, or loose tinman nut, shoddy tuner, or nothing at all.

 

The max FIPW was 5.3ms! I bet that's why the IPR duty went so high. At that point the injectors are probably basically an oil leak.

 

What does FIPW mean? All I want is a good running stock truck for now to enjoy.....LOL