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You know after looking at all of the casting holes for the push rods they all look like crap and I don't see anything indicative of contact on only of the push rods
The holes the push rods come up through are all kind of jagged and irregularly shaped, in my experience. The smoke coming out sounds like just normal combustion blow-by. Probably nothing to be concerned about. The engine was cold when you started it to watch the oil spouts, correct?
You have no idea how good I feel hearing that. My heart sank when I saw it.
Engine was cold. Well 50 degrees is what my shop is set at. I forgot to pull the connectors to the individual injectors, I'll do it in a few. Anything I should be concerned with when I pull me with the engine running like getting shocked?
Alright disconnected every injector while the engine was running. Everyone is working and caused the engine to bog down. When I got the pass valve cover off the inner wire harness was about 1/4" off so I did the 50 cent mod to both sides and I don't want to be to optimistic but I think I might have taken care of the problem. The idle was nice and smooth at 750 and I slightly revved the engine and she was smooth without miss. So either that was my issue or my problem only manifests with the truck at operating temp.
well no dice. I started her up and she felt perfect, took her down a back road at 35mph to warm her up then hit the highway and just before the coolant temp gauge read operating temp she went south again. It is most noticeable between 1 and 2k RPM. So if I take her out of overdrive she is kinda drivable.
I did get smart and pulled out my tuner to read codes instead of my autozone special and I got two codes. P0603 and P1000
P0603 is KAM (KeepAlive Memory) error. That's normal after disconnecting the batteries. P1000 is an OBD-II readiness code. It just means the vehicle hasn't been driven enough since the last time the codes were cleared.
If it were me, I'd go drive it again until the symptoms started again. As soon as it starts to run poorly, pull over and shut it off. Remove the fuel filter lid and see if the fuel filter housing is anything other than full.
-OR-
If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can hook up to the post-filter port on the filter housing, hook it up and see what it reads during a wide open throttle drive. It should not fall below 40 psi.
In my experience using anything over 10% Ethanol would cause my truck to have those same symptoms. If you have a ethanol free gas station in your area, use it, your truck will love you for it, if not the least ethanol the better.
Also check that all the arm bushings are still tight. if the bushings are loose, everything will shake.
Did you look at the pins on the Uvch on the passenger side. Once that connector is loose, the pins can get burnt and have an intermittent bad connection. This happened to me but it was for my glow plugs. I removed the valve covers 3 times before I finally replaced the Uvch and the problem went away.
In my experience using anything over 10% Ethanol would cause my truck to have those same symptoms. If you have a ethanol free gas station in your area, use it, your truck will love you for it, if not the least ethanol the better.
Also check that all the arm bushings are still tight. if the bushings are loose, everything will shake.
In my experience using anything over 10% Ethanol would cause my truck to have those same symptoms. If you have a ethanol free gas station in your area, use it, your truck will love you for it, if not the least ethanol the better.
Also check that all the arm bushings are still tight. if the bushings are loose, everything will shake.
Where are you seeing ethanol in diesel fuel? Ethanol and diesel don't belong together at all.
well no dice. I started her up and she felt perfect, took her down a back road at 35mph to warm her up then hit the highway and just before the coolant temp gauge read operating temp she went south again. It is most noticeable between 1 and 2k RPM. So if I take her out of overdrive she is kinda drivable.
I did get smart and pulled out my tuner to read codes instead of my autozone special and I got two codes. P0603 and P1000
You could check your fuel pressure first, but unless you have the set up on hand, you're likely to spend as much on the set up as you are on the in tank mods.
A quick test would be to start it up and see if it runs well at idle. Revving the motor at idle is not a test since the engine is not under load. Then take a spin around the block and keep the rpm's under 1700 the whole time. If the truck is running great so far, find a nice open stretch and floor it. If the truck picks up speed and then quickly falls on it's face, you've got all the makings of a fuel restriction.
Some fuel injection hose, a couple of dollars on an inline filter, a few bucks on some tubing and you're set.
Where are you seeing ethanol in diesel fuel? Ethanol and diesel don't belong together at all.
Some do have ethanol or methanol yes, it's known as "FAME" or "bio diesel blend" EG: B10, B20 etc. Most older diesel engines aren't designed yet to have more than 7% bio diesel in the tank.
Diesel fuel containing over 7 % FAME: Accidentally refueling non-compliant vehicles with biodiesel containing over 7% FAME (this fuel is not compliant with the current standards, and therefore all refueling sites must have specific markings communicating this) does not cause immediate malfunction but will, on the long run, endanger the vehicle’s fuel and emission control systems. Should this happen, the vehicle must be towed to a repair shop where the fuel tank must be emptied and the vehicle appropriately refueled.
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