Bad engine vibration
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Some do have ethanol or methanol yes, it's known as "FAME" or "bio diesel blend" EG: B10, B20 etc. Most older diesel engines aren't designed yet to have more than 7% bio diesel in the tank.
More information <click[ quote]
More information <click[ quote]
B10, B20, etc. refer to the percentage of biodiesel mixed in with regular diesel.
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Trailering
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Actually companies can interchange between the use of methanol or ethanol in the production of bio diesel.
I provided links from there because it was the first hit for "non-compliant vehicles biodiesel" in google.
Yes, I know it can be from animal fat but it is not necessarily from animal fat, in the US they use soybean oil to get the methyl or ethyl esters for bio diesel.
FAME
Anyway, back on subject, incorrectly mixed bio-diesel can cause engine knocking and corrosion.
Are you from Finland or just providing links from there? From your link, FAME seems to refer to biodiesel that comes from grease or byproducts, while. Ethanol and methanol are alcohol based and are not used in biodiesel in your link. B10, B20, etc. refer to the percentage of biodiesel mixed in with regular diesel.
Yes, I know it can be from animal fat but it is not necessarily from animal fat, in the US they use soybean oil to get the methyl or ethyl esters for bio diesel.
FAME
Fatty-acid methyl ester (FAME), perhaps more widely known as biodiesel, is obtained from vegetable oil or animal fats (biolipids) which have been transesterified with methanol. It can be produced from many types of oils, the most common being rapeseed oil (rapeseed methyl ester, RME) in Europe and soybean oil (soy methyl ester, SME) in the USA. Methanol can also be replaced with ethanol for the transesterification process, which results in the production of ethyl esters.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,309
Likes: 577
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Ethanol and methanol are used as a reagent in the biodiesel production process, not as an additive to biodiesel. Any excess methanol/ethanol used in the process is distilled out of the product so it meets ASTM standards for use as biodiesel.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
You could check your fuel pressure first, but unless you have the set up on hand, you're likely to spend as much on the set up as you are on the in tank mods.
A quick test would be to start it up and see if it runs well at idle. Revving the motor at idle is not a test since the engine is not under load. Then take a spin around the block and keep the rpm's under 1700 the whole time. If the truck is running great so far, find a nice open stretch and floor it. If the truck picks up speed and then quickly falls on it's face, you've got all the makings of a fuel restriction.
Some fuel injection hose, a couple of dollars on an inline filter, a few bucks on some tubing and you're set.
A quick test would be to start it up and see if it runs well at idle. Revving the motor at idle is not a test since the engine is not under load. Then take a spin around the block and keep the rpm's under 1700 the whole time. If the truck is running great so far, find a nice open stretch and floor it. If the truck picks up speed and then quickly falls on it's face, you've got all the makings of a fuel restriction.
Some fuel injection hose, a couple of dollars on an inline filter, a few bucks on some tubing and you're set.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
A fuel restriction just means you're not getting enough fuel for the demand. It will be intermittent. Run fine at low rpm's, idle, and times of little load, but fall on it's face when a heavy load is placed on the engine.
And the restriction likely is not in your fuel bowl, but inside your fuel tank. Another way to test this is to disconnect the fuel line off the back end of the fuel pump and plug it off. Then take a rubber hose and feed it into a remote diesel tank placed in the bed of your truck. If it runs fine using a remote tank, this points to something inside the tank.
Just remember if you try this, the fuel system will pump excess fuel not being used by the engine back into your main fuel tank, so you'll run out of fuel in your remote tank much quicker than your MPG's would lead you to believe.
And the restriction likely is not in your fuel bowl, but inside your fuel tank. Another way to test this is to disconnect the fuel line off the back end of the fuel pump and plug it off. Then take a rubber hose and feed it into a remote diesel tank placed in the bed of your truck. If it runs fine using a remote tank, this points to something inside the tank.
Just remember if you try this, the fuel system will pump excess fuel not being used by the engine back into your main fuel tank, so you'll run out of fuel in your remote tank much quicker than your MPG's would lead you to believe.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 27
From: Hampton, Maryland.
I didn't see if you checked the tinnerman nut on the back of the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR). It is a nut on the drivers side of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP). On the back side of the pump, there is a solenoid held on the IPR valve by a sheet metal nut, this can come loose and cause similar symptoms, or the IPR itself can become sticky and cause problems, that often times show up when the engine is warm. You can monitor IPR function with Torque Pro app or with AE, I am not sure if any of the other apps do it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
A fuel restriction just means you're not getting enough fuel for the demand. It will be intermittent. Run fine at low rpm's, idle, and times of little load, but fall on it's face when a heavy load is placed on the engine.
And the restriction likely is not in your fuel bowl, but inside your fuel tank. Another way to test this is to disconnect the fuel line off the back end of the fuel pump and plug it off. Then take a rubber hose and feed it into a remote diesel tank placed in the bed of your truck. If it runs fine using a remote tank, this points to something inside the tank.
Just remember if you try this, the fuel system will pump excess fuel not being used by the engine back into your main fuel tank, so you'll run out of fuel in your remote tank much quicker than your MPG's would lead you to believe.
And the restriction likely is not in your fuel bowl, but inside your fuel tank. Another way to test this is to disconnect the fuel line off the back end of the fuel pump and plug it off. Then take a rubber hose and feed it into a remote diesel tank placed in the bed of your truck. If it runs fine using a remote tank, this points to something inside the tank.
Just remember if you try this, the fuel system will pump excess fuel not being used by the engine back into your main fuel tank, so you'll run out of fuel in your remote tank much quicker than your MPG's would lead you to believe.
I didn't see if you checked the tinnerman nut on the back of the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR). It is a nut on the drivers side of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP). On the back side of the pump, there is a solenoid held on the IPR valve by a sheet metal nut, this can come loose and cause similar symptoms, or the IPR itself can become sticky and cause problems, that often times show up when the engine is warm. You can monitor IPR function with Torque Pro app or with AE, I am not sure if any of the other apps do it.
I really appreciate the help this far. The excursion is a spare vehicle but I'm about to deploy and I want it to be a solid spare for my wife
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Well, I've read through the entire thread, and one thing which has not been mentioned is one which is often overlooked and can easily create your described symptoms...
... Check you engine oil level. If the level is too low, your injectors will not fire adequately because the HPOP will not be able to supply a steady flow of oil to them, and it can fee like the engine is going to literally shake out of the engine bay.
Chris has mentioned fuel pressure, and that is CERTAINLY another potential issue which can create the exact same symptoms. Your fuel pump may just be on the verge of dying. If it is trash clogging an in-tank screen, then you con confirm (or rule out) by putting a 5-gallon bucket of fuel in the bed and running a hose from the bucket to your pump suction fitting (clamping your tank hose closed, obviously). If you try to bucket method, though, don;t go more than about 2 miles from the house and then go right back because the return line from the engine will be sending all the "over supply" of fuel back into your tank, and NOT in the bucket... we wouldn't want you to get stranded out in the cold with no fuel.
Either of the above two scenarios could let you run well at low speeds and low engine loads, and then raise all kinds of immortal H_LL when you push the throttle and demand more from your truck.
... Check you engine oil level. If the level is too low, your injectors will not fire adequately because the HPOP will not be able to supply a steady flow of oil to them, and it can fee like the engine is going to literally shake out of the engine bay.
Chris has mentioned fuel pressure, and that is CERTAINLY another potential issue which can create the exact same symptoms. Your fuel pump may just be on the verge of dying. If it is trash clogging an in-tank screen, then you con confirm (or rule out) by putting a 5-gallon bucket of fuel in the bed and running a hose from the bucket to your pump suction fitting (clamping your tank hose closed, obviously). If you try to bucket method, though, don;t go more than about 2 miles from the house and then go right back because the return line from the engine will be sending all the "over supply" of fuel back into your tank, and NOT in the bucket... we wouldn't want you to get stranded out in the cold with no fuel.
Either of the above two scenarios could let you run well at low speeds and low engine loads, and then raise all kinds of immortal H_LL when you push the throttle and demand more from your truck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
Well, I've read through the entire thread, and one thing which has not been mentioned is one which is often overlooked and can easily create your described symptoms...
... Check you engine oil level. If the level is too low, your injectors will not fire adequately because the HPOP will not be able to supply a steady flow of oil to them, and it can fee like the engine is going to literally shake out of the engine bay.
Chris has mentioned fuel pressure, and that is CERTAINLY another potential issue which can create the exact same symptoms. Your fuel pump may just be on the verge of dying. If it is trash clogging an in-tank screen, then you con confirm (or rule out) by putting a 5-gallon bucket of fuel in the bed and running a hose from the bucket to your pump suction fitting (clamping your tank hose closed, obviously). If you try to bucket method, though, don;t go more than about 2 miles from the house and then go right back because the return line from the engine will be sending all the "over supply" of fuel back into your tank, and NOT in the bucket... we wouldn't want you to get stranded out in the cold with no fuel.
Either of the above two scenarios could let you run well at low speeds and low engine loads, and then raise all kinds of immortal H_LL when you push the throttle and demand more from your truck.
... Check you engine oil level. If the level is too low, your injectors will not fire adequately because the HPOP will not be able to supply a steady flow of oil to them, and it can fee like the engine is going to literally shake out of the engine bay.
Chris has mentioned fuel pressure, and that is CERTAINLY another potential issue which can create the exact same symptoms. Your fuel pump may just be on the verge of dying. If it is trash clogging an in-tank screen, then you con confirm (or rule out) by putting a 5-gallon bucket of fuel in the bed and running a hose from the bucket to your pump suction fitting (clamping your tank hose closed, obviously). If you try to bucket method, though, don;t go more than about 2 miles from the house and then go right back because the return line from the engine will be sending all the "over supply" of fuel back into your tank, and NOT in the bucket... we wouldn't want you to get stranded out in the cold with no fuel.
Either of the above two scenarios could let you run well at low speeds and low engine loads, and then raise all kinds of immortal H_LL when you push the throttle and demand more from your truck.
I hope I'm making sense when I say what is going on, it goes along with the question if whether or not it is a fuel related issue. Once the truck warms up and it starts running like garbage it stays that way. It doesn't get any better regardless of engine load or gear select position, idle or driving it is missing and falling on it's face
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,309
Likes: 577
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
OK, try this. Drive it until the symptoms start, plus a couple more miles. Pull over and shut it down. Wait a few minutes then turn the key on for 30 seconds, and shut it off. Do this 5 or 6 times, then start it again. This will run the fuel pump each time, and might just help tell if a flow restriction is part of the problem. If it starts and idles and drives fine for a few minutes, the problem is more than likely plugged screens in the tank, or it could be the pump itself.
When I had a fuel starvation problem, I turned the key on and crawled under the truck. The restriction was enough that I could actually hear the pump sucking air in through the o-ring at the pump's supply fitting. That's when I discovered one of those little glass tube Mr. Gasket inline fuel screens installed in the line. After sitting for a while, enough crap would fall off the screen and the truck would run fine for 100-200 miles then start running poorly again.
When I had a fuel starvation problem, I turned the key on and crawled under the truck. The restriction was enough that I could actually hear the pump sucking air in through the o-ring at the pump's supply fitting. That's when I discovered one of those little glass tube Mr. Gasket inline fuel screens installed in the line. After sitting for a while, enough crap would fall off the screen and the truck would run fine for 100-200 miles then start running poorly again.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
OK, try this. Drive it until the symptoms start, plus a couple more miles. Pull over and shut it down. Wait a few minutes then turn the key on for 30 seconds, and shut it off. Do this 5 or 6 times, then start it again. This will run the fuel pump each time, and might just help tell if a flow restriction is part of the problem. If it starts and idles and drives fine for a few minutes, the problem is more than likely plugged screens in the tank, or it could be the pump itself.
When I had a fuel starvation problem, I turned the key on and crawled under the truck. The restriction was enough that I could actually hear the pump sucking air in through the o-ring at the pump's supply fitting. That's when I discovered one of those little glass tube Mr. Gasket inline fuel screens installed in the line. After sitting for a while, enough crap would fall off the screen and the truck would run fine for 100-200 miles then start running poorly again.
When I had a fuel starvation problem, I turned the key on and crawled under the truck. The restriction was enough that I could actually hear the pump sucking air in through the o-ring at the pump's supply fitting. That's when I discovered one of those little glass tube Mr. Gasket inline fuel screens installed in the line. After sitting for a while, enough crap would fall off the screen and the truck would run fine for 100-200 miles then start running poorly again.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
Well got some time after work today to mess with her. Started her up and from the get go she had a miss. I let it idle for about 30 seconds and she started to go south fast. The miss got worse and worse and worse until it died. Now she won't start.
I pulled the filter and she is full of fuel and got under the truck with the ignition on and I hear the pump run for 30 or so seconds. Still no dang CEL. I don't know what to do
Also pulled the plug on top of the HPOP. The level appeared to be about 1/2 from the top
I pulled the filter and she is full of fuel and got under the truck with the ignition on and I hear the pump run for 30 or so seconds. Still no dang CEL. I don't know what to do
Also pulled the plug on top of the HPOP. The level appeared to be about 1/2 from the top
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
. It was difficult for me to pin point anything else as she was running so bad that I only had about 30 seconds before she crapped the bed