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Hello,
Got a problem that I am at a loss as to what to do, hope someone can help.
I have an old 84 class c motorhome on an E-350 chassis with a 460 that I use to tow my race car, it is about that time of the year so I decided to work on it today.
I was going to change the distributor, and ran into a problem that I have never encountered befor, the distributor is absolutely frozen in the block, it will not budge. The hold down clamp is loose but the dist. will not turn or lift up, it was ok last fall as I set the timing back in Oct. I tried prying against the vacume advance unit to no avile, I also tapped it gingerly with a hammer, again no movement, I also tried to pry up from the bottom still no movement I also soaked the area with WD-40, no good.
Has any one elce run into this befor? if so what can I do? I am out of ideas
Thanks!
Yes...on my wifes Toyota......use PB blaster, let it sit for up to a couple of weeks giving it a quick shot every other day.....after 2 weeks, it was smooth as silk. CO2 works well also.
Yes...on my wifes Toyota......use PB blaster, let it sit for up to a couple of weeks giving it a quick shot every other day.....after 2 weeks, it was smooth as silk. CO2 works well also.
PB Blaster is great and so is another product called Kroil. Not sure if it would be any more effective than Beechkid's recommendation---both will do the trick after a time though.
IIRC there is an O-ring or other type seal on the outer distributor case? If that can be replaced separately I'd use a good heat gun on the distributor, alternately gently heating it, allowing it to cool then trying again to twist it free.
I don't know I'd be prying or hammering on it though......
Thanks! all I will see what I can do, I really don't mind using a bigger hammer or pry bar due to the fact that I am going to replace the distributor any way but I am afraid that I might break the top off and then I am sure it would be impossible to get the rest out.
Thanks again.
I had the same problem on my 5.8L powered van. I did the penetrating oil route as well. They say that ATF works well as one and I have to agree based on the times I used it as one after reading about it.
I was able to get a wrench on the base shaft of the dist. below the main housing. I found that there are "flats" there that allowed an open end wrench good purchase there. I then tapped the wrench first one way and then the other not having much room to do this in. This back and forth motion did loosen the dist. enough that I could then remove it and then put in back so I had room to adjust timing. You see the engine was rebuild by the PO and the shop that did it put the dist. in just such a way that limited my ign. timing adjustments.
I of course lubed the O ring and the shaft that goes into the block so it doesn't freeze up again.
Hello,
Got a problem that I am at a loss as to what to do, hope someone can help.
I have an old 84 class c motorhome on an E-350 chassis with a 460 that I use to tow my race car, it is about that time of the year so I decided to work on it today.
I was going to change the distributor, and ran into a problem that I have never encountered befor, the distributor is absolutely frozen in the block, it will not budge. The hold down clamp is loose but the dist. will not turn or lift up, it was ok last fall as I set the timing back in Oct. I tried prying against the vacume advance unit to no avile, I also tapped it gingerly with a hammer, again no movement, I also tried to pry up from the bottom still no movement I also soaked the area with WD-40, no good.
Has any one elce run into this befor? if so what can I do? I am out of ideas
Thanks!
Ypu've done everything that can be done, you're just going to have to keep working with it to loosen it up. Had a couple FE's with this problem, it's not the O ring that sticks, it's the housing above it that fuses to the block. Try to rotate it first before prying up on it.
The thing about aluminum that I hate is it corrodes, what you can try, that usually works, it's just very uncomfortable, run the engine till it's hot, metal expands when heated, the iron cools slowly, but the aluminum that the distributor is cast from, it cools fast, take care not to get burned. I had this issue with both a Ford 360, and International 304 and 392, I believe this is the reason manufactures put a paper gasket between the distributor and block, not to seal it, but prevent seizure.
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