That seems to ring a bell, going to look online. Thanks!

 

I've found the more gas which puts the level much higher in the tank it will self feed the hose and continue to flow out once I remove hose that feeds the pump. Like when you don't know it won't flow like if you have a hose cracked and will leak out under your truck till tank is near drained.

I've noticed the same thing when the level of gas was only what was in part of the line drained out then it stopped if tank was low to began with.

Now when, I got a tank of bad gas I found out after making it about I or 2 blocks until it started showing up, Spitting & coughing. I made it home slow about 2 miles.

I picked up 4 of those 5 gallon poly paint buckets and started removing what, I could from removing the gas line going into the fuel pump and sucking out what, I could with my handy length of 1/2'' garden hose well known as an ol Kentucky credit card as we all called it buck yrs ago.
As I remember my hose was a bit short to be of any use once I was down to about the last 5 gallons so had to let it drain on it's own out the gas line until it stopped coming.
I had a few gallons of gas that would not drain so removed the tank line at the top by the sender and removed the tank with what gas was left in it.

I forget how much was left that would not drain buy has about a qt of some funky looking gray clear watery looking stuff that smelled like xylene/paint thinner type goop.
I really thought, I was going to remove all the gas this way. surprise, surprise could not!!
orich
here's where mine is setup.

 

Yea I was thinking gas level may be to low to continue draining. I took the gas tank out and got 5 gals of good clean looking gas from the tank. Tank looks so clean from what I can see from fuel and sending unit openings I don't think I will clean it. I'am afraid the acid from vinegar or electrocysis method will just open the metal to rusting down the road. Maybe I should just rinse it out with water and air compress dry, maybe not?

Yes bypass hose is what I'am looking for but the parts store don't carry it. Going to get a 1 foot 5/8 piece of heater hose tomorrow and cut it down.

Got everything back together up to the water pump. Went good and not as hard as I though it would be. Thanks for the help so far!

Went to autozone to get a new pump and they don't have me in the system so no warranty. Not the first time this has happen to me with them. Once I get everything back together I'am going to run the old pumps and see if they work, if not looks like I will have to buy another pump.

Orich I have some question about your system but want to wait till I get everything back up. Going to get something to eat and back at it tomorrow.
As always any though ideas welcome.

 

Maybe you should put a fuel pressure gauge into your fuel line.

I'm running a 12 volt Aircraft one that has a sender tapped into the other side of my fuel regulator for my dash electric gauge. I always know when the psi is and that the first thing , I look at if something don't seem right, I keep psi at 6-lbs.

I have my little booster electric pump setup on a toggle switch that lights when on.

I use to live and work in the low desert So.Calif. and did a lot of off roading and checking the old mining areas sites. So there was no way I was going to get "stuck" out their most the time by myself from something failing on my vehicle. Always had extra gas,water,air,120volt, dual-Batts. Hoses-belt shovel, tow rope, aw and a CB with a 150watt kicker & the dog that loved beef jerky.
Took the wife & kids when, I had the weekend off...
Okay that's it my meds have taken over, now going to bed!
orich

 

Thanks orich, at this point psi gauge would be a good idea.

Where did you get your pump and reg, did they come as a kit or purchased separately. What brand are the pump and reg. Do you know if pump is rated for ethanol? I noticed some are some aren't, most don' t say. I think the reason some pumps get bad reviews is because pumps aren't rated for ethanol and this causes pumps to go bad.

So I assume since it's a flow thur it would only be used if/when mechanical pump goes out?

I have looked at some kits with pump and reg. together but they don't state if reg. is adjustable or not. Does that even matter if it's rated between 5 to 8 psi?

Orich thanks for your input and any others who have a similar set up please feel free to join in. Really want to get the truck safe so that it wouldn't die on me again, or at least have a dependable back up system.

 

This is the little pump, I'm using and picked up regulator at the good guys car show unused for $5 bucks with mounting bracket. You want pump & a reg. for working Psi for 4-7lbs.


Pump info.
The high-performance electric fuel pumps eliminate vapor lock and flooding with a smooth, constant and dependable supply of fuel- even on the hottest days and in the highest altitudes. We offer the dependibility of Purolator/Facet high-performance electric fuel pumps. It offers superior reliability and low power requirements. Fuel pumps are self-priming and compatible with all fuels including gasoline, diesel, blended alcohol and pure alcohol; there are no rubber diaphragms to swell or deteriorate in harsh conditions. They are quite easy to install, with a two-bolt installation and compact design.

4-6 Max. Pressure, Average flow of 15 @ 1 PSI, 1/8 NPT Fitting
orich
Facet Fuel Pumps - Facet/Purolator Solid State Fuel Pump- 1/8 NPT Fitting 4-6 Max. Pressure

Also I had order a shut off and found the threads were messed up so returned it
so I ended up not having a low oil psi shout off as I, forgot about it since only test it once in a while to make sure it's still working. But yea for safety sakes, I should have a turn over switch in the line..

Here's a link for some shut offs http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/efuelpumps.html
[IMG]
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m133/orich1/fuelpumpwithshutoff.jpg[/IMG]

 

I'm with orich in using an electric pump in series with the mechanical pump. I've been doing that for over 35 years on my F250. I'll run a tank dry, switch tanks, turn on the electric pump and continue on my way. It's a way to beat vapor lock and drain back also.

 

I like this pump for 50" dry draw.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...006_0388671957


And this for a regulator.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...417_0361129422

Or help me select one from here.


http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...Dp%3d3%26N%3d0

And here, thanks!

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...Dp%3d3%26N%3d0

Off to the parts store.

Oh and orich thanks for the pump link but I would rather get one from a brick and mortar incase I need to return or get a new one.

 

I could find no blockage and tank looked clean so it just washed it out with a little gas. All rubber lines are new again, checked for leaking lines luckily found none. Everything is back together except for power steering pump, I will get that tomorrow and do a little tweaking.

Even though old pump seemed good it wasn't, put on a new one and it fired up. Ran a little rough at first but smoothed out when warm. I now have a better peace of mind knowing I have a clean fuel system and new timing chain set on. I want to order the parts for electric fuel pump conversion this week. don't trust the aftermarket mechanical pumps any more.

Everything went smoothly and was easier than I thought it would be. Thanks for all the help!

I have one last question about electric fuel pump. Are you guys using an oil pressure safety switch, going to the solenoid or can I just get power off the oil pressure sensor. I've decided to use an electric fuel pump and put the mechanical in truck tool box for back up. If time and weather permit hope get system up this coming weekend. Thanks again.

 

I do not run oil pressure switch although not a bad idea. I ran a wire to fuse box to run my pump.......

 

I run mine from the ignition switch with a separate switch for the pump. I also run the mechanical pump.

 

I've decided to ditch the mechanical pump altogether. I've had so many fail and cause me problems, just tired out of it.

So I read where some people wire there pump to the solenoid or ign. Would the safest method be to get the safety switch that goes on the oil pressure. Since I don't use the oil pressure sensor could I hook the pump to it for power. I'am guessing not but thought I would ask anyway.

Alex since you still have mechanical pump is electric just back up?

 

Yes. I don't drive the truck everyday so I prime the carburetor with the electric.

 

The oil sender might work if it will carry the ground load for the pump safety switch.
If not then here's a few to choose from.
Looks like Napa sold these at one time..
orich
Longacre Racing -- Instructions "Low Oil Pressure Ignition / Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch Wiring Instructions"