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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

fuel pump again?

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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 70-360fe
Cleaned out tank twice in the past year, even rolled it around with rocks in it to get out any rust. I will check it again if called for. I don't think my 70 has a vent tube just a gas tube. I have seen other trucks that more then one tube come off gas sending unit, mine has only one. (Not sure if they were for extra gas tank or venting) I though it might be the cap so I try running with the cap off, no difference.

I find it strange that gas won't keep flowing from tube coming off sending unit. If I disconnect the rubber hose from metal line blow into gas tank it flows good but only for a few seconds. I know tube goes to the bottom of the tank but the other is lower than the tank? I'am going to check that metal line as best I can and try to run something thur it to clean it out. I think maybe that's where the problem is or the pump has gotten weak and does not have enough suction to keep gas flowing. (Cheap donkey after market crap) Maybe an air leak somewhere from tank to rubber hose connection? (rubber connection hose was replaced in past year)

Please tell me more about electric pump back up. Is this a replacement for mechanical pump. Please tell me about your set up's, brand if you use a fuel reg. etc. If I go that route I would prefer to get one from a brick and mortar store as I need to get this thing up and running again.

Going out to do some checks in a few, will report back my finds. Thanks for the suggestions!

Looking at these.

Advance Auto Parts: Search Results for universal electric fuel pump

Or keep mechanical and add this.

Mr. Gasket/Electric fuel pump (42S) | Fuel Pump | AutoZone.com
Well the clincher for me was when you said it all works fine again, after you take the air hose and blow the line clear back towards the tank. I had cleaned mine too, I pressure washed the inside, then I sloshed around 2 gallons of degreaser along with a couple handfuls of gravel. I got so much crap out of that tank. Once it was clean and dry I did the sealing kit thing. You know what? 6 months later there was little pieces of crap again. I think the only way to truly get the inside sparkling clean is to take it somewhere that can hot-tank it like a radiator shop maybe. But its easier and cheaper in the long run probably to get a new tank which is I did.

As for the add-on electric pump, I got one of these from Autozone (although the price was $30 when I got mine, wow, they must think these things are made of gold now or something)

Mr. Gasket/Electric fuel pump (42S) | Fuel Pump | AutoZone.com
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 01:57 PM
  #17  
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Mechanical pump is simple to hook up, no wirers or safety switches to hook up or go bad. Electric is fine I just like to keep things simple. Orich thanks for the info. Any suggestions on timing chain set, don't need the best just good quality. I'am in my slow season and cash is tight.

Thanks

Even on the first cleaning I never got much of anything out of tank. I believe tank is clean but for now I think I need to look under timing cover and see what is going on. If all else fails I will look at the tank again.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #18  
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CLOYES brand. Don't go too cheap. The cheaper ones don't care about quality control. The timing marks on the gears can be up to 5 degrees off or so.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 02:16 PM
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From: Four Oaks, NC
Originally Posted by 70-360fe
I hooked up pump to rubber connection off metal gas tank line and pumps gas by hand. Did some research and I think the problem is with the pump drive. Pushed on the timing chain with finger thur pump hole chain moves a 1/2inch at least. Look like it's time to replace timing chain. I have never done one but read up on it and does not seem to hard. So thoughts - suggestions.

All tubes look good the only one I can't visually check is the inside draw tube. Blow on it and I can hear gas bubbling so I assume no holes/leaks.

Just did vacuum test on both pumps and getting about 7 to 8 psi.
I'd just like to point out that whether there is slack in the timing chain or not will have nothing to do with your fuel pump, it is run off an offset lobe on the front of the cam. So, if the engine runs, the cam is turning, and if the cam is turning, the offset lobe is moving against the fuel pump arm as it should. Replacing the timing chain is a good idea if you have slack and want to keep the timing working perfectly, but it has nothing to do with your mechanical fuel pump working poorly.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
CLOYES brand. Don't go too cheap. The cheaper ones don't care about quality control. The timing marks on the gears can be up to 5 degrees off or so.
I've run the double roller chain by Edelbrock, Any thing has to be better then the retarded OEM ones. Look around for the best prices.
Rockauto, Parts Geeks, Napa, the A-zone O Rilliy's, Amazon look for free shipping also.

I think the small block motors use the same Pump eccentric wheels but not sure. Maybe Jeff will chime in with more info on specs for them..
orich
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #21  
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I just bought SA from Jegs under their house brand. Made in USA and free shipping.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:37 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cracker289
I'd just like to point out that whether there is slack in the timing chain or not will have nothing to do with your fuel pump, it is run off an offset lobe on the front of the cam. So, if the engine runs, the cam is turning, and if the cam is turning, the offset lobe is moving against the fuel pump arm as it should. Replacing the timing chain is a good idea if you have slack and want to keep the timing working perfectly, but it has nothing to do with your mechanical fuel pump working poorly.
Been doing some research and realize the fuel pump eccentric only works the pump. (Once again this truck is turning a simple problem into another learning experience). At this point the only thing I can think is going thur so many pumps there is a problem with the eccentric. Tomorrow I will get it tore down and find out what is going. Thanks for info I need all the help I can get since this all new to me.

Yes I read where the 302 one piece is the same as the 390 one piece although the dowel pin maybe different. Been looking at kits with eccentric included but run 170.00 and above. Summit has an eccentric for a 302 I think will fit, will know better once I get timing cover off and do some measuring. If eccentric from summit will work I will most likely get the timing set from them also. Hopefully they will be able to match me up with the correct parts. I like the looks of the edelbrock and cloyes kits.

If any one has a good link on how to install the timing set please post a link. I have found some info but nothing good for a 390 fe. Thanks for the help so far, I'am sure I will have more questions before everything is back together.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 10:20 PM
  #23  
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From: Four Oaks, NC
Originally Posted by 70-360fe
Been doing some research and realize the fuel pump eccentric only works the pump. (Once again this truck is turning a simple problem into another learning experience). At this point the only thing I can think is going thur so many pumps there is a problem with the eccentric. Tomorrow I will get it tore down and find out what is going. Thanks for info I need all the help I can get since this all new to me.

Yes I read where the 302 one piece is the same as the 390 one piece although the dowel pin maybe different. Been looking at kits with eccentric included but run 170.00 and above. Summit has an eccentric for a 302 I think will fit, will know better once I get timing cover off and do some measuring. If eccentric from summit will work I will most likely get the timing set from them also. Hopefully they will be able to match me up with the correct parts. I like the looks of the edelbrock and cloyes kits.

If any one has a good link on how to install the timing set please post a link. I have found some info but nothing good for a 390 fe. Thanks for the help so far, I'am sure I will have more questions before everything is back together.
There is really nothing that can go wrong with a fuel pump eccentric! Its just a round cup with an offset hole and is bathed in oil as it turns.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 10:28 PM
  #24  
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Originally Posted by 70-360fe
Been doing some research and realize the fuel pump eccentric only works the pump. (Once again this truck is turning a simple problem into another learning experience). At this point the only thing I can think is going thur so many pumps there is a problem with the eccentric. Tomorrow I will get it tore down and find out what is going. Thanks for info I need all the help I can get since this all new to me.

Yes I read where the 302 one piece is the same as the 390 one piece although the dowel pin maybe different. Been looking at kits with eccentric included but run 170.00 and above. Summit has an eccentric for a 302 I think will fit, will know better once I get timing cover off and do some measuring. If eccentric from summit will work I will most likely get the timing set from them also. Hopefully they will be able to match me up with the correct parts. I like the looks of the edelbrock and cloyes kits.

If any one has a good link on how to install the timing set please post a link. I have found some info but nothing good for a 390 fe. Thanks for the help so far, I'am sure I will have more questions before everything is back together.
Made sure you get a puller to remove the damper, this makes it easier.
Also loosen the crank bolt, it's sometimes hard to get the bolt loose if you have an auto trans. Where as a stick tranny you can put in gear with the e-brake on. Then remove the fan, pulley, water pump, You'll need to remove the keyway for the damper also, remover F-pump wheel & timing gear.

Just remember timing gear dot at 6: o'clock & crank gear at 12: o'clock

You can get a FRONT Cover timing case gasket set. Also has the front part of the pan gasket to as those sometime get messed up. Cut the pan gasket right at the block edge then RTV the replacement part into place where you butt the pan gasket. You'll understand once you get the front cover off..

If you don't have a book manual covering your truck & engine, you will wish you it.

orich
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:42 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 70-360fe
If any one has a good link on how to install the timing set please post a link. I have found some info but nothing good for a 390 fe. Thanks for the help so far, I'am sure I will have more questions before everything is back together.
See post #15
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Aesop
Maybe check your tank vent line for blockage or install a vented cap. Just a thought.
Vent lines? I don't think the stock gas tanks had vent lines in 1970.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Thipdar
Vent lines? I don't think the stock gas tanks had vent lines in 1970.
No does not look like it on my truck.

Order an edelbrock timing set from advance today, comes in tomorrow. Got everything tore down today and at tdc. Got the 3 pulley bolts out by using a breaker bar long enough to hit frame when socket was connect to center bolt. Breaker on frame keep crank from turning and was able to get 3 smaller bolts out. To get the larger center bolt out I got a piece of chain and bolted it to the balancer. Then ran the chain over the frame and bolted it to a different hole on the balancer. Used a four foot pipe on my wrench and bolt came out easy. Tomorrow I get to put it all together.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 09:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 70-360fe
No does not look like it on my truck.

Got the 3 pulley bolts out by using a breaker bar long enough to hit frame when socket was connect to center bolt. Breaker on frame keep crank from turning and was able to get 3 smaller bolts out. To get the larger center bolt out I got a piece of chain and bolted it to the balancer. Then ran the chain over the frame and bolted it to a different hole on the balancer. Used a four foot pipe on my wrench and bolt came out easy. Tomorrow I get to put it all together.
All while you had the your breaker bar up on the frame. All was needed was to bump the starter 1 second to loosen the Crank Bolt when all other ways
have failed.
It's best to use a impact socket tho. A little dangerous yes but can still be done safely.

Also have heard of some guys using a pipe wrench behind the damper spacer between that & front timing cover..
orich
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 10:25 AM
  #29  
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Or a partner holding the flex plate/flywheel ring gear still by leveraging a screwdriver or prybar in between the ring gear and tranny case.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #30  
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All good idea's on crank bolt, chain was first thing that came to mind. No partner so I had to use a one person method. Picked up timing chain set but they did not have the timing chain gasket or seal. Since I have to wait till morning I've decided to pull the tank and clean it again. Partly because eccentric looks ok but I have not measured it for size yet.

Last two times I cleaned tank I put rocks in it, shook it then washed it out with soap and water blew dry with compressed air. Looked at a few different methods and decide to go with chain in tank - shake - rinse with water, put in white vinegar - shake, put in liter of coke - shake, put in denatured alcohol - shake - empty and blow dry with compressed air. Didn't want to use a chemical that is dangerous to use/get rid of and read where vinegar has an acid in it to help dissolve gunk and rust. Coke is used to neutralize the acid from the vinegar.

I would still like to do some kind of electric fuel pump back up. Looked at a lot of different pumps but none have jumped out at me. Either bad reviews, not made for todays gas, not enough psi, (Been looking at pumps that put out 5 to 8 psi) If you have a system that has worked for you let me pump brand, ect. Thanks!
 
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