I didn't have a wrenching partner, so I conned a C-clamp into doing the job for me... I didn't even have to buy it a beer!

 

You can measure it if you want, but that's the kind of part that can go a million miles and still be fine. Especially if it stays lubed all the time.

Lots of work, my hat's off to you for that. I only see one thing that strikes me as wrong...Coke is seriously acidic, and I'd be surprised if it nutralized the vinegar. Traditionally, I use a solution of baking soda to nutralize vinegar... makes a lot of foam, but does the job. Once it quits making bubbles, I rinse with water.

Don't go back and re-do the work. If you rinsed the tank two or three times, you probably got all of the vinegar out.

 

If memory services me right the coke acid is different than the vinegar and that is what neutralizes the vinegar acid. Maybe I will just drink the coke and try the baking soda. Been dealing with this problem for around a year now on and off. Think I got it fixed (New pump) and few months later the truck starts to quit again. Drives me crazy going over the same thing when I have other things I need/want to do to truck.

I still think the problem is from the tank to the rubber hose connection. When it quits disconnect the hose from tank to frame and no gas. Blow into gas tank gas comes out for a few seconds and quits. Maybe I'am wrong but since outlet is below tank shouldn't it keep flowing.

Maybe I need to look into a new tank?

I though about cutting an excess way into tank, clean and weld up but thought it might be too dangerous. While doing some research I read about a guys friend that did some welding on a tank. Tank blew, other equipment in his work shop blew. Took him workshop and his house out of the picture, ouch!

 

Only if it leaks. Last time I dealt with gas tanks, I had them boiled out at the radiator shop. One survived, one didn't. The one that survived got lined - supposedly a lifetime warranty on that job. The one that didn't survive got replaced (so it should last enother 30-40 years).

The way to make it safe is to make sure there are no fuel vapors in or near the tank.

As much as I love my trucks, they aren't worth that!

 

Been looking at getting the tank boiled. There is a radiator sells/repair shop I need to call tomorrow. Do you remember the cost to get it dipped?

 

Are the pumps you are getting old or new? When I first put my truck on the road, it ate a pump about every six months thanks to ethanol. After about two years I got into new stock pumps and it was fine for years.

 

No, off-hand, I don't. Was a couple of years ago.

I do remember one funny incident at that shop, though.

My main truck had the radiator spring a leak. I took it back to the place that had worked on it last - in 1989. The day after the radiator was reinstalled, we drove to Mexico, then spent two and a half days driving across the top of Baja California, over to Sonoita, down to Puerto Penasco and back, crossed the border again at Douglas, went through Demming, Lordsburg, Las Cruces, El Paso, White City/Carlsbad Caverns, back up to Albuqurque, Flagstaff, Lee's Ferry, North Rim, Virgin, Zion, St. George, Las Vegas, Reno & then back home. 3100 miles in 13 days. It was August in the Sonoran Desert and the temperature needle never moved above "C", even when it was 120 degrees in El Paso. I figured that was a pretty awesome testamony about the shop's ability to do good quality repairs.

So I took it back and explained that I'd liked their work so much, I was bringing the radiator back. It had a leak and I wanted them to do whatever they thought was needed to make it servicable again.

No problem.

Then I realized that I was going to need the radiator from the other truck done as well. The engine and transmission were being rebuilt, so I should get the radiator done and have it ready to go for when they started to put my truck back together. I drove to the engine shop and fetched the second radiator.

When I went back into the radiator shop, I walked in with the exact same radiator. The guy that had waited on me about 45 minutes earlier started freaking out. "W-w-w-w-eren't you just here?!?"

I should have lied to him, but I didn't.

I was wishing I had the t-shirt that says "I *AM* the evil twin!"

 

Ok been thinking about this a little. First pump from napa, new could only blow lines without compressed air as truck was not home. Once home took out tank and cleaned it. Worked for about 8 months, took out tank and cleaned it, work for a few months and now this where I'am at. I have two pumps now, did a compression test on both and they jump up to around 8 psi. Even though the tank looks clean I think tank is the problem? Maybe the draw tube has a hole in it or tank has a small amount of junk I haven't gotten out.

So I read to check the draw tube for holes get a clear tube connect it to draw tube. Suck gas into the clear tube clamp it and hold tube above tank, if gas stays at same level no holes.

To clean tank I'am going to try Hi Ho Silvers method of electrolysis. Also clean/check out all lines. Of course I'am returning the old pump for new but not sure it's bad because it has a vacuum of around 8 psi.

Going to look at getting tank dipped also but I really need the truck up and running by Monday. Might have to pull it again at a later date to get it done.

Main problem is don't know if problem is fixed till driven, hope it doesn't quit on me while driving again.

Any thoughts or ideas welcome

 

.................................................. ..........

As noted in my earlier post!
CYA with a little backup electric pump for happy motoring

orich

 

I don't like to suggest it but I'd go with a new stock pump. I've had too many experiences with new(er) parts failing. My particular nemesis has been starters. My parts man stopped taking my returns one time saying I had to have another problem. I left the last one he gave me in the bag on a shelf and used an old one given to me for years. When it failed I broke out the unused one and it was bad. I went back to my parts guy and he told me they had quit carrying them a long time ago because of problems! I've yet to find rebuilt starters for the truck that holds up as long as they should. It sounds like you're in a similar situation possibly. It's tough to find solutions when newer parts fail.

 

Pull the tank sender out and check it's sock. Also I would replace all the rubber hoses between the tank and carb. Including around the tank switching valve if you have,had dual tanks. About a year ago I could't start my Bump. No fuel at carb. it ended up being an Old hose where the PO had bypassed the switch-over valve when he removed the in-cab tank. Lost it's seal on the metal tube somehow. The fuel pump was sucking air at that hose but yet the hose didn't leak!

 

Got the tank out, when I poured out the gas from tank it gas was clean. Looked inside tank with a flashlight and from what I can see it's spotless. Draw tube is in good shape with no crap around bottom and passed the leak/hole test. All rubber gas lines have been replaced in the last year. The one down by the frame was a little short so I'am going to replace it with a longer one. I used the pliers crimp type hose connector last time, switching to screw type maybe get a tighter seal. Gasket at sending unit is in good shape. I'am not getting gas from tank to that hose so It doesn't even get to the pump.

Maybe a longer hose and a better clamp if there is some sort of unseen leak there. Oh like I said before if I blow in fuel fill inlet gas will flow from that hose strong when disconnect for a few seconds then stops. Blow again same thing

I'am wonder if it would do more harm then good to clean the tank again since it looks clean? I'am beginning to think may be a leak at frame connection or just another bad pump. Don't get me started on starters been thur 4 in the last 2 years. Last one I brought was a napa premium, so far so good.

Going to work on timing chain I will check back later. I will keep me eyes open for anything strange on the fuel system.

 

If everything looks good in the tank I revert back to what I posted in post #9 and Ford Six posted in post #36. BTW, when I was replacing the hose in the story above the gas did not come out of the tank when I removed old hose.

 

I'am thinking the same thing, old/new pumps. Anyway I'am ready to put on the water pump and I need the small hose that goes to the water pump. Not sure what it's called, couldn't find online at local parts stores. Is there a specific name for it or do I just get a foot of heater hose from parts store and cut to length.

Bought some new rubber hose to replace all rubber hoses - again. Tomorrow I'am going to blow out all the metal lines with compressed air and check for any leaks, cracks, etc. At a quick glance they all look good but maybe I missed something.

Looked for a sock on the draw tube and could not see one, looks like it's missing or never had one. Might have come off last time I cleaned the tank.

 

I think what you are looking for is usually called the "bypass hose".

KM-640 Mustang Ford Radiator Bypass Hose 302/351W 1973-1995 / 2.3L 1984-1993 | CJ Pony Parts