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Okay guys, my 65 w/352 and 2 barrel carb is not getting fuel to the carb. I changed the filter a few weeks ago. It ran fine for a while, but I am not getting any flow to the carb. I disconnected the filter to see if any gas was being pushed by the pump and found none. I am assuming that cranking the engine (no start) will mechanically activate the pump.
Before I buy a new pump, is there anything else I should check? I was in lots of dirt before this happened. Also, I am stuck in the front of my property at a little bit of an incline. I have put at least 3 gallons into the tank just to be sure. Any ideas here?
The only other thing I would tried is putting a hose on the suction line of the pump and sumerge it into a can of gas right at the pump. If it doesn't pull from there it is most likely the pump...
You can also put your finger on the suction line and have someone crank on it and see if you can feel the suction.
One thought if it does come down to needing a new fuel pump would be to think about an electric one. When my mechanical one went out I put on an electrical and have been very happy. I have an 1101 carb and not a 2 barrel but it solved boiling over and improved the hesitation. Just a thought.
Coop, There has to be gas at the pump for it to work. I might think about removing the gas cap, then remove the line from the tank at the pump, gas should be flowing freely. Should it not be, blow air into the tube back into the tank to try to free ant debre on the pickup screen. If that doesn't do it pull the pickup from the top of the tank, to clean it.
I am on my second tank and have a third for a spare and none of them have a removable pickup tube or a strainer that I know of. Am I missing something?
But Johns method of checking flow is a good one if you pull the cap off and than the line at the pump you should get fuel. I have wedged many of pencils in the fuel line to keep from pooring gas all over the ground.
I like the mecanical because of a memorey I have when my father installed an electric pump. He got in the habbit of turning the key until he heard the pump come up to pressure than he would start it.
One morning the floats stuck and he waited for the pump to come up to pressure he decide to crank it after the pump had run for a while and the engine came to a dead stop. Cylinder full of gas and broke rings that is why the 352 in my truck was rebuilt at 100k.
Electric is good for high performance but if it is stock I would stay with the mechanical pump it only pumps when the engine is running.
Jon-the strainer is on the end of the pickup tube that is brazed into the tank where the fuel line exits. It is not removeable(pickup tube) that I know of. The strainer is a round metal screen cylinder about 1-1 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, mine fell off the end of the pickup tube.
JD-Sylvia That is a good point about the electric pump I had not thought about. I amy go back to the mechanical after I change from the 1101 to the Holly. The electric took care of many of the issues witht he 1101. Thats what I like about this site, the info and support.
One of the trucks that I bought for parts had a rubber splice under the cab in the fuel line and the rubber piece has started falling apart. It didnt leak but was soft and would pinch under pressure. Just a thought.
I had a 68 with 390 that during hot days over 100 degrees would tend to vapor lock. I added an electric on a switch that I would turn on if I had problems but mostly used the mechanical.
It was a big band aid and if they had the internet and this site back than I bet I would not have added the electric...
You guys have spiked my intrest now. I am gonna run the fuel down low and remove the sensor to see what is down there. I have never seen the strainer. My spare tank is out at my brothers or I would check that one.
Jon
Last edited by jd_sylvia; Jun 17, 2006 at 10:01 AM.
So I can disconnect the inlet at the pump and stick that into a small can of gas to check suction. And/Or, I can shoot air back into the tank via that same line. Or, I can remove the line from the gas cap side and try to clean it. That is assuming the screen still exists. I guess I have my work cut out for me. There are 2 auxilary tanks which are no longer used, which complicates the number of gas lines involved. Thanks for the help everyone.
I had that problem two and have since removed the extra lines and hooked up to one tank only. I will be pulling the tanks this summer and welding in the doors were the fill spouts are I hope.
I have improved the gas mileage enough that I can safely go somewhere with just the seat tank.
I was able to revive the truck by working with the fuel line as explained earlier. Thanks for saving me time and money to replace the fuel pump needlessly. Had to get it to level ground and prime the carb and then blew out the crud in the line. I am now thinking of replacing a portion of the line, is steel better than rubber? I am thinking new rubber is much easier and cheaper to install, but I don't really know.
Run as little rubber as posible on the fuel line. Vibration connection only.
Replace the steel line with tubing of comparable diameter avalible at napa. and replace only the sections of rubber that was there stock. This is really important on the engine from the fuel pump to the carb. With the heat the rubber may fail and it is instant fire. the less rubber the better.
Garbz
I have cut melted people out of vehicles due to just this mod. Not fun.