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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #46  
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TRENT310
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The EGR cooler is quite snug in there. Not like 6.0L EGR snug, but still cozy. It will have to be rotated slightly to be able to get it out, and I guess we have learned the hard way to take note of other parts that may be in the way.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:01 PM
  #47  
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I guess my question really was how hard (or soft) of a hit on the injector is required to need a replacement. It seems to me that the pressures that these things operate at, would require them to be relatively beefy - whether the high pressure tubing that feeds the injector, or the actual injector itself. This makes me wonder if I would be better off just unplugging the EGR and calling it a day. Knowing myself though, I will probably pull it and just cuss the paint off of the wall if I damage anything. I like playing and that costs money.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:06 PM
  #48  
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Every single instructions out there make NO mention of removing the Air Intake to get out the EGR Cooler, but without taking mine out it would have been close to impossible without breaking anything, which obviously I ended up doing anyways. When you do remove your EGR cooler, REMOVE your Air Intake so you have a much easier time getting the EGR out. I would say that for how much pressure these things have to take they are built "flimsy". I can tell you that it wasn't a "I'm pulling hard and then it finally gives and smacks the injector on the way out". It was more of a i'm pulling and the EGR cooler isn't coming, and i'm rotating it, and so I finally removed the air intake and and I was able to get it out. I was able to get my hand back there to remove the bolt without removing the air intake, but I couldn't get the EGR Cooler out. I can't wait to get back into the truck, I went and saw it today and looked at the exhaust and I know it wants to roar. I will post a video once I get it back, I have to order an injector from Tousley Ford and get it overnighted.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #49  
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Thanks for the tip. The main reason why I hang out here is to learn these sorts of things. Manufacturers of aftermarket "stuff" usually include a set of directions that will work, but the consumers - you and me - that put this stuff on, typically find the better and "not so great" ways of getting it done.

Looking forward to that video!! I hope the repairs go well and quickly.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:40 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Tofan
Every single instructions out there make NO mention of removing the Air Intake to get out the EGR Cooler
What kit/instructions were you using again?

That was like step 2 or 3 of the instructions that I used.

That coupled with the crummy radiator / degas bottle fitting caps sound like this isn't a well designed kit...
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:43 PM
  #51  
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My instructions came directly from H & S's website for removing the EGR. I'm sorry, INTAKE MANIFOLD is what I meant to say. Not Air Intake, I did remove that as per step 3 like you stated. I also used Rudy's Diesel EGR delete, which I am in the process of getting a partial refund due to the part failing. Like I said earlier, I recommend everybody to use a heater hose that you can get at Lowes and just snake it from one fitting to the other.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #52  
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I was going to get the Sinister kit, as I thought they connected the hoses to make a loop. Plus, the blue anodized block-off plates look cool.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #53  
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Yeah the Sinister kit has a loopback hose.

Allow me to recycle this image from my install project.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:59 PM
  #54  
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Yeah, this crud making it back into the air intake. Yuck.
Hopefully my truck is breathing a bit easier now. That stuff cakes on like it's cholesterol for your truck...

 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:04 PM
  #55  
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Thanks for the pics. That's some pretty funky crap in there.
I prefer loops rather than dead ends when it comes to fluids. Where I work, dead legs in piping tend to cause problems eventually. I think you've reinforced my thoughts about the Sinister kit.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:12 PM
  #56  
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Yep, exactly what I was talking about. The purpose of this hose is the coolant system is obviously pressurized and so with the caps, they can blow up like mine, or leak because of the pressure. The hose also circulates the coolant. Anybody sell their EGR Cooler? Also looking at all the EGR deletes out there, I would recommend the Sinister EGR Delete over all the rest, because of the hose. I don't personally like the blue look which is why I went with something different, but I thought the caps would have done a better job.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #57  
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No I didn't sell any of the things I removed. I took them straight to the dump.

I too would have thought that the caps would have done a better job. When it warms up here I will be doing the loop.

Tofan sorry to hear about the cost of the repair. That EGR Cooler is not light by no means. It looks that way but it's not.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 10:06 PM
  #58  
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While the area in which I live does not currently do emissions testing, nor does it appear to be on the books in the foreseeable future, my cooler and rocketship will both be put on the shelf in my garage as soon as they fall off. Also, I don't know for sure that I will keep this truck until the wheels fall off, as I like to have newer things. These pieces won't get in my way in the garage. If someday, it becomes obvious that they will never be needed, they may get listed for sale on Ebay, or tossed into the scrap heap.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 11:40 PM
  #59  
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I just listed mine on craigslist, I have no need for it. Don't really expect anything for the EGR cooler, but I know I can get money for the DPF.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #60  
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This forum is bad for my checking account. This thread inspired me to go ahead and order my Sinister kit. That was the last piece needed to do a complete delete for me. The Sinister kit should be on my front porch within a week.
 
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