My 84 F150, with the 302 has an automatic trans with overdrive, I'm thinking it's an AOD.
To say this trans shifts FIRM is an understatement. Very firm shifts, sets you back in the seat even at low throttle. Anything to "soften" it a bit?
Also, to shift into OD, ya gotta be going at least 60, and then release the throttle completely. It may stay in OD, or shift back to 3rd after a minute or two. Any small hill, and it's shifting back to 3. I tried adjusting the kickdown linkage at the carb, helped some, not much.

TIA!

 

I had an AOD in my truck originally - having the cable (or linkage) too tight can cause those symptoms; firmer is better than soft, but yours does sound severe.

Adjustment instructions here ...... Baumann Electronic Controls

 

Adjust the cable to the tranny(if you have a cable, some had a metal rod). If it's a cable, release the catch mechanism at the carb end that holds the cable, push the throttle wide open(engine off of course) and while holding it wide open, click the catch shut to hold the cable. Let go and it should be adjusted.

 

Mine has the linkage. There is a small screw on the carb, that delays movement of the linkage slightly. It made it a little better, not sure how much adjustment is left.
It also seems better when warm, FWIW.

 

Here's what Autozone says about the linkage rod type of adjustment.

Check that engine idle speed is set at the specification.

De-cam the fast idle cam on the carburetor so that the throttle lever is at its idle stop. Place shift lever in N (neutral), set park brake (engine off).

Back out linkage lever adjusting screw all the way (screw end if flush with lever face).

Turn in adjusting screw until a thin shim (0.005 inch; max.) or piece of writing paper fits snugly between end of screw and Throttle Lever. To eliminate effect of friction, push linkage lever forward (tending to close gap) and release before checking clearance between end of screw and throttle lever. Do not apply any load on levers with tools or hands while checking gap.

Turn in adjusting screw an additional four turns. (Four turns are preferred. Two turns minimum is permissible if screw travel is limited).

If it is not possible to turn in adjusting screw at least two addition turns or if there was sufficient screw adjusting capacity to obtain an initial gap in Step 2 above, refer to Linkage Adjustment at Transmission.Whenever it is required to adjust idle speed by more than 50 rpm, the adjustment screw on the linkage lever at the carburetor should also be readjusted as shown.

 

I have experimented with my own TV rod (I now have a TV cable) on my 1985 F150 quite a bit. When I had it too tight, it did exactly what you are describing. I would have to completely let off the throttle to get the transmission to shift into overdrive, and then it would "CLUNK" into gear. Loosen it up some to where overdrive comes in by itself at 45 -50 MPH under normal throttle. If you look at the sticker under your driver's side visor, it tells you that overdrive should come in at about 45 MPH.

Unfortunately, that part is normal for these trucks in stock form with an AOD. The 302 is a relatively small engine powering a heavy truck, and the extremely low RPMs of the overdrive gear (0.67:1!) coupled with the high 3.55 rear gear takes this engine right out of its power band when under any sort of load other than cruising on a flat road.

The sticker under the visor and the owner's manual even addresses this. It is VERY IMPORTANT not to let the AOD excessively "hunt" between 3rd gear and overdrive. If this starts to happen, shift the transmission to "D" or the OVERDRIVE LOCKOUT position. Also use the "D" gear if you do any sort of towing. This will put your truck in a better powerband and keep the AOD from overheating.

Capiche?

 

Thanks, guys!

 

Well, I did some adjusting at the carb end. It got better, but I think it's going to take an adjustment at the transmission end to be perfect. I'm pretty much out of adjustment at the top end. And that will wait til it warms up outside!

 

I forgot to ask you: how did the AOD adjustment get this way to begin with? And how is it shifting now that you made adjustments?

 

I put a rebuilt carburetor on it.

With today's adjustment, it will go into OD about 50 MPH, seems to stay in OD better.

The 1-2-3 shifts seem to be not as harsh, but the OD still bangs into gear.

 

BE CAREFUL. Did you get a rebuilt carburetor SPECIFICALLY for an AOD? If not, return it immediately and get the correct one! Even though it may look the same, and will physically fit, the AOD TV linkage connection at the carburetor is a bit different than the others that use a kickdown linkage for the C4/C6 kickdown rod.

This is what the correct linkage should look like if you are using a stock AOD kickdown rod:



No aftermarket carburetor will have the correct linkage for the AOD TV rod. When going aftermarket, you will have to replace the TV rod with a TV cable and use a geometry corrector bracket to get the correct pull or else your AOD will burn up in a very short time.

 

Mine looks like that. I made sure that I specified OD when I ordered it, plus I gave them the tag number. It's a rebuilt Motorcraft 2150, just like the old one. It has the small adjustment screw, which I've been adjusting.

 

If your carb has the has the other flange that the rod hooks to, with the adjustment
screw that you mentioned, then that should be correct for your AOD.

Lariat 85 is very right about burning up an AOD if the TV rod or cable is not adjusted
right. Make sure you get it right.

 

One other thing I just remembered, the base gasket I used was a little thinner than the original, maybe an 1/8" or so. That changed the location of the carb in relation to the linkage, probably another reason I'm having adjustment issues.