2000 7.3 Strange Starting/Running Problems
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 270
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2000 7.3 Strange Starting/Running Problems
Hey,
So here's my timeline for yesterday. I started it up no problem and drove to publix about 2 miles away. I come out after publix and cranked it for about 5 seconds (very fast cranks but no start). I let it sit for a second then try it again. After about 3 seconds it started up. (Keep in mind it was already warm at this time and never has had problems starting). On the way back, I got about a mile and a half before I lost all power and it shut right off. It wouldn't start the next 3 tries of about 7 seconds cranking each so I sat there with the key off for about 5 minutes. It started up and I could get it back to my dorm and into the parking spot.
My first thought was the CPS but the tach was jumping when I tried to start it. Any ideas? I don't believe there was a CEL light on. I cannot recall, though.
So here's my timeline for yesterday. I started it up no problem and drove to publix about 2 miles away. I come out after publix and cranked it for about 5 seconds (very fast cranks but no start). I let it sit for a second then try it again. After about 3 seconds it started up. (Keep in mind it was already warm at this time and never has had problems starting). On the way back, I got about a mile and a half before I lost all power and it shut right off. It wouldn't start the next 3 tries of about 7 seconds cranking each so I sat there with the key off for about 5 minutes. It started up and I could get it back to my dorm and into the parking spot.
My first thought was the CPS but the tach was jumping when I tried to start it. Any ideas? I don't believe there was a CEL light on. I cannot recall, though.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 27
From: Hampton, Maryland.
These would be guesses without getting some codes pulled, but my first 2 impressions are UVCH loose, and second would be loose nut on the IPR. A third option might be an ICP sensor going bad.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,248
Likes: 7,668
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
Hey,
So here's my timeline for yesterday. I started it up no problem and drove to publix about 2 miles away. I come out after publix and cranked it for about 5 seconds (very fast cranks but no start). I let it sit for a second then try it again. After about 3 seconds it started up. (Keep in mind it was already warm at this time and never has had problems starting). On the way back, I got about a mile and a half before I lost all power and it shut right off. It wouldn't start the next 3 tries of about 7 seconds cranking each so I sat there with the key off for about 5 minutes. It started up and I could get it back to my dorm and into the parking spot.
My first thought was the CPS but the tach was jumping when I tried to start it. Any ideas? I don't believe there was a CEL light on. I cannot recall, though.
So here's my timeline for yesterday. I started it up no problem and drove to publix about 2 miles away. I come out after publix and cranked it for about 5 seconds (very fast cranks but no start). I let it sit for a second then try it again. After about 3 seconds it started up. (Keep in mind it was already warm at this time and never has had problems starting). On the way back, I got about a mile and a half before I lost all power and it shut right off. It wouldn't start the next 3 tries of about 7 seconds cranking each so I sat there with the key off for about 5 minutes. It started up and I could get it back to my dorm and into the parking spot.
My first thought was the CPS but the tach was jumping when I tried to start it. Any ideas? I don't believe there was a CEL light on. I cannot recall, though.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown, MD
Do you have a CEL? I've had CPS issues with no code. It can't hurt to scan if you have AE.
If you don't have a spare CPS to swap and it does this again, you could try unplugging the ICP sensor on the drivers side head and crank with it unplugged.
I'd do as HKusp said and check the tin nut on the IPR for tightness as well.
How cold is it where you're at? Can you eliminate fuel gelling?
If you've tried all of this and have AE, you could monitor some PIDs while cranking. Such as:
RPM
ICP
IPR Duty Cycle
Batt. Volt
Injector Pulse Width
If you don't have a spare CPS to swap and it does this again, you could try unplugging the ICP sensor on the drivers side head and crank with it unplugged.
I'd do as HKusp said and check the tin nut on the IPR for tightness as well.
How cold is it where you're at? Can you eliminate fuel gelling?
If you've tried all of this and have AE, you could monitor some PIDs while cranking. Such as:
RPM
ICP
IPR Duty Cycle
Batt. Volt
Injector Pulse Width
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2012
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It's about 85 where I'm at. I'm in Florida. I'm at school and all of my equipment is at home. I gave my spare CPS to a buddy of mine when his died a few weeks ago. I have AAA so, if anything, I can get it towed the 20 miles home and figure out what it is exactly.
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