59 Headlight switch question
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From: Fairfield, CA
59 Headlight switch question
It looks like I have the original switch and every thing works great except the dome light is intermittent at best. I checked the wire to the lamp and its fine. What I need is a clear picture of the dome light switch so I can get in there with a dental pick or something to adjust the contacts. I really don't want to break it as I hear they're hard to find.
I'm asking this because I don't want to remove the wiring and disturb the headlight switch which is working great. I have pulled the assembly out of the dash and gave the dimmer a taste of PB Blaster, which seemed to help the dimmer work better.
I'm asking this because I don't want to remove the wiring and disturb the headlight switch which is working great. I have pulled the assembly out of the dash and gave the dimmer a taste of PB Blaster, which seemed to help the dimmer work better.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 203
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From: Simi Valley, CA.
Here you go Chet.
I don't have a wiring diagram (I know, I know, I should get one) but here is how my switch seems to operate. The white ceramic "donut" has a rheostat coil on the outer ring and a plain metal inner ring, both facing away from the driver, facing the front of the vehicle, like the sidewall on a tire. If you observe that the connectors are at the top of the switch, 12:00 o'clock, The rheostat is controlling the intensity of the current to the dash lights, and the contact is at the 12:00 o'clock position. At the 6:00 o'clock position is a spring-type contact that, I imagine, is controlling the power to the dome light at the inner ring (since I don't have a dome light, I'm not 100% sure.) I'm not sure how you would be able to adjust the tension because there's not very much room between the contactor and ring.
The PBS Blaster is OK but clearly only temporary. Be very careful when cleaning electrical contacts, they're usually only plated and easily ruined. You'll need a burnishing tool like they used to use to clean relay contacts back in the day.
I don't have a wiring diagram (I know, I know, I should get one) but here is how my switch seems to operate. The white ceramic "donut" has a rheostat coil on the outer ring and a plain metal inner ring, both facing away from the driver, facing the front of the vehicle, like the sidewall on a tire. If you observe that the connectors are at the top of the switch, 12:00 o'clock, The rheostat is controlling the intensity of the current to the dash lights, and the contact is at the 12:00 o'clock position. At the 6:00 o'clock position is a spring-type contact that, I imagine, is controlling the power to the dome light at the inner ring (since I don't have a dome light, I'm not 100% sure.) I'm not sure how you would be able to adjust the tension because there's not very much room between the contactor and ring.
The PBS Blaster is OK but clearly only temporary. Be very careful when cleaning electrical contacts, they're usually only plated and easily ruined. You'll need a burnishing tool like they used to use to clean relay contacts back in the day.
See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
If you do not want to splash out for a new or NOS switch, for a few bucks in wire and a few more for a switch, you can put in a door switch. NAPA sometimes has the all metal ones, better than the cheap plastic ones.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Upstate NY
While I dearly love PB Blaster, I would use contact cleaner for this. But, nothing wrong with using what you have!
For me though, it's not too comfortable to get under the dash and if I were doing it, I might go this route! http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171221586042?lpid=82
For me though, it's not too comfortable to get under the dash and if I were doing it, I might go this route! http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171221586042?lpid=82
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From: Fairfield, CA
Here you go Chet.
I don't have a wiring diagram (I know, I know, I should get one) but here is how my switch seems to operate. The white ceramic "donut" has a rheostat coil on the outer ring and a plain metal inner ring, both facing away from the driver, facing the front of the vehicle, like the sidewall on a tire. If you observe that the connectors are at the top of the switch, 12:00 o'clock, The rheostat is controlling the intensity of the current to the dash lights, and the contact is at the 12:00 o'clock position. At the 6:00 o'clock position is a spring-type contact that, I imagine, is controlling the power to the dome light at the inner ring (since I don't have a dome light, I'm not 100% sure.) I'm not sure how you would be able to adjust the tension because there's not very much room between the contactor and ring.
The PBS Blaster is OK but clearly only temporary. Be very careful when cleaning electrical contacts, they're usually only plated and easily ruined. You'll need a burnishing tool like they used to use to clean relay contacts back in the day.
I don't have a wiring diagram (I know, I know, I should get one) but here is how my switch seems to operate. The white ceramic "donut" has a rheostat coil on the outer ring and a plain metal inner ring, both facing away from the driver, facing the front of the vehicle, like the sidewall on a tire. If you observe that the connectors are at the top of the switch, 12:00 o'clock, The rheostat is controlling the intensity of the current to the dash lights, and the contact is at the 12:00 o'clock position. At the 6:00 o'clock position is a spring-type contact that, I imagine, is controlling the power to the dome light at the inner ring (since I don't have a dome light, I'm not 100% sure.) I'm not sure how you would be able to adjust the tension because there's not very much room between the contactor and ring.
The PBS Blaster is OK but clearly only temporary. Be very careful when cleaning electrical contacts, they're usually only plated and easily ruined. You'll need a burnishing tool like they used to use to clean relay contacts back in the day.
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Posting Guru
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From: Fairfield, CA
Thanks for the feed back guys, as far as door switches, I wan't to try and keep her original to a certain extent and I kind of like being able to leave the doors open without worrying about the battery. i guess with LED bulbs that's a mute point. I'm going to pull the switch out of the dash and try and take a pic in place. I can't believe how hot it is outside right now. 
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From: Fairfield, CA
Ok here's what I'm dealing with:
The contact(s) are to the right of the donut in this picture.
As you can see what I do first hand, it's a delicate situation at best. I'm guessing that someone in the past, turned the **** clockwise a bit to hard and/or far causing the contacts to bend. Or it's still to dirty to work reliably but I doubt it. My hunch is this unit was not designed to be taken apart.
The contact(s) are to the right of the donut in this picture.
As you can see what I do first hand, it's a delicate situation at best. I'm guessing that someone in the past, turned the **** clockwise a bit to hard and/or far causing the contacts to bend. Or it's still to dirty to work reliably but I doubt it. My hunch is this unit was not designed to be taken apart.
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From: Fairfield, CA
So as you can see it's like brain surgery but harder, I took some 320 grit sand paper and cut a 1/4 strip of it to make an ultra thin file. I slid it in as far as I could then turned the donut clockwise till the contacts closed then slid the sandpaper out. I worked right away when I rotate the donut by hand but when I put it all back in the dash and re-istalled the ****\stem assembly it didn't work. So I reached back in and rotated the donut again to test it, and it works every time. Now it works perfectly from the **** also. So I'm not sure where the weak link is in the headlight switch assembly. It could be the dome light switch or the donut itself which actually activates the dome light when rotated all the way clockwise (see the bumps on the left side of the donut in the picture above.
Also, I just checked and it's an original Ford switch, not sure if there ever was an aftermarket alternative.
Also, I just checked and it's an original Ford switch, not sure if there ever was an aftermarket alternative.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
For me though, it's not too comfortable to get under the dash and if I were doing it, I might go this route! 1960 1961 1963 Ford Truck Autolite SW303 C3TB 11654 A Headlamp Switch | eBay
Another clueless ebay seller!C1DF-11654-A = This is the wrong headlight switch, kiddo...unless you have a 1961: F100/1100 or Falcon/Comet.
1957 F100/900: B7A-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-294).
1958/59 F100/1100 & 1959 Ford car: B9AF-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-295).
1960 F100/600 & Falcon/Comet: CODF-11654-C .. Headlamp Switch (No Motorcraft p/n).
1960 F700/1100 & 1960 Mercury full size: COMF-11654-C .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-304).
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Upstate NY
Another clueless ebay seller!C1DF-11654-A = This is the wrong headlight switch, kiddo...unless you have a 1961: F100/1100 or Falcon/Comet.
1957 F100/900: B7A-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-294).
1958/59 F100/1100 & 1959 Ford car: B9AF-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-295)
1960 F100/600 & Falcon/Comet: CODF-11654-C .. Headlamp Switch (No Motorcraft p/n).
1960 F700/1100 & 1960 Mercury full size: COMF-11654-C .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-304).
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From: Fairfield, CA
Thanks for the info Mr Numberdummy.
I found one for $50 here if anyone else ever needs one:
Ford Head Light Switch - B9AF-11654 - C&G Ford Parts
I found one for $50 here if anyone else ever needs one:
Ford Head Light Switch - B9AF-11654 - C&G Ford Parts
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