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I have been driving my 1965 f100 at night and in the early morning and sometimes when I pull on the headlight switch, the dash lights will flicker or will not come on at all. If I spin the switch as one would if turning on the dome light or dimming the dash lights, the dash lights come on and stay on. If I turn the switch afterward I can get the dash lights to flicker. The switch itself operates fairly smooth, but feels like it might have some dust and dirt in it.
My question(s): Is this just a dirty switch that can be removed and cleaned? If yes, what do I watch out for so I don't mess things up? Is this a failure that will mean a new switch? I see switches for sale and the application is not only for the f series trucks and econolines, but also mustangs and galaxies as well. If I need to replace the switch, does the existing handle move to the new switch? Which application number is the correct switch for the 1965 f100? Shout out to Bill W. - thanks for all the entertaining posts! AND thank all of you for your help!
Pull the switch and check it. There is a coil of resistance wire built into a ceramic disc; this controls the amps to the lights to act as the dimmer. If the resistance coil is in good shape, you can try cleaning it, but if burned out or in pieces, you will need to replace the switch. I think I used a headlight switch out of a '74 LTD once, but that has been many many years ago.
To remove the switch, you must first remove the shaft. Do this by depressing a small spring loaded button on the switch while pulling on the shaft. The button is right next to the dash, so it can be hard to reach. Usually, I have found the button to be on the top, but I have seen it underneath, on the bottom in some instances - as in cars perhaps?
Once you have the shaft removed, unscrew the bezel, and the switch will come right out.
Thanks for the info so far guys. Anyone have the correct part number for the switch??? As I mentioned in my post, those I have been seeing for sale seem to be universal switches, or FOMOCO used the same switch for many models. NumberDummy, any input?? Thanks again!
This is not the original switch, it's a FoMoCo Service Part Replacement. The trucks headlamp switch **** and shaft will work with this switch.
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If you want the original switch...it came two different ways. As a kit (includes the switch & the mounting bracket), or the switch only.
The following switches are the obsolete originals.
Ford confusion: These are not the same switches as used on the above passenger cars.
ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has ONE = 817-275-2381.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has ONE = 800-543-4959.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has ONE = 800-546-7278.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has TEN = 606-787-5293.
---------------------------------------------------------------- C5TZ11654C .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW718) / Obsolete-Replaced
Marked: C5TB-11654-A
ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY has ONE.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has ONE.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS has TWO.
GREEN SALES CO. has NINE.
btw: The trucks headlamp switch **** & shaft (C3TZ11661D) is a ONE piece assembly. The **** was not serviced by itself.
When removing the switch, remove the battery cable first! Poking around under the dash might cause a short...or worse, with the cable connected.
****/shaft removal: Pull the **** all the way out...then press the button to release it.
You do not need to press the button to re-install the ****/shaft. Just shove the puppy back in.
It sounds like this can be removed and dropped slightly below the dash to transfer wires to the new one. Is this correct, or do you have to pull the instrument panel?
Benny, might want to start a new thread on the subject, as this one’s almost ten years old. The OP has not logged onto FTE since May of this year. The others, four or five years ago
It sounds like this can be removed and dropped slightly below the dash to transfer wires to the new one. Is this correct, or do you have to pull the instrument panel?
Yeah old thread but simple question. It's easy to change the headlight switch, you do not need to pull the instrument cluster. Banjopicker's answer is right on, you pull the rod just by reacing under the dash pressing on that "button" and pulling the rod out the front. Then unscrewing the bezzle with a large flat head.
Thank you guys for the input I appreciate that. Yeah it's an old thread and I don't expect the original posters to respond, but it does bump it to the top for others to see. I don't like starting new threads because in most online forums Ive joined, starting new thread on a covered topic is frowned upon.
Some of these old FTE threads are very well indexed on Google and come up #1 or #2 in search results, so I figure others will find it easily. (Yeah I used to do web design.)
Got the new switch in. Confirming there was enough leash on the harness to drop below dash, remove harness and inspect, then replace with new unit.
Hardest part was lining up the spacer with the switch and threads. Best advice is to use the **** shaft to hold them in general alignment, then use 2nd hand to press on back of switch and hold in place. (The spacer does not mount solid like the original but floats free until screw is firmly in place.) Then thread the screw back in. It takes several attempts but I got it. And I have good speedometer lights now!
Ordered and installed a Standard Motor DS188 to replace a crusty unit.
When I did my switch I wired it so the parking lights in the front stay on when the headlights were on. I think it was on a thread here as what post to use.
if you find that thread let me know. I have a suspicion my prior owner did that but it only works on one side. I'd like to either remove it or make it happen on both sides.
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but also mustangs and galaxies 
1965 f100 headlight switch question
Ford confusion: These are not the same switches as used on the above passenger cars. 
