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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

losing another headlight switch - why

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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 10:05 PM
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losing another headlight switch - why

in my 83 F250, i've replaced the headlight switch at least once before, with a new motorcraft switch. due to various meltdowns, both the headlights and marker lights are wired on relays.
i was driving it tonight and found that if i turn on the dome light, i lose the dash lights. i can't see any way this would be a problem with its socket, so i guess i've got another bad switch. its kinda irritating since its only a few years old and hasn't been driven a ton in that time
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:14 AM
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Turning on the dome light takes the dash lights off the wirewound rheostat and delivers full power, doesn't it?
Hard to imagine it is an overheating problem if all your exterior lights are relayed.

Subscribing just to see how this resolves.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:24 AM
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Did you check (or replace) the electrical connector to the headlight switch when you replaced the switch. You may have an overheated the connector during the previous switch failure resulting in the wires now having poor contact to the switch terminals. If that is the case, there would be higher than normal resistance between the wire terminal ends and switch terminals in the connector which would cause heat build up and premature failure of your new switch.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:31 AM
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This pigtail is available from Pico I believe...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:39 AM
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I thought this is the way it worked also; Turn the **** all the way to the left, the domelight comes on, the dash lights go out. If you do not turn the **** enough back to the right, the domelight is off and the dash lights don't work either.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Perhaps my '87 switch is different.

On mine when you turn the switch to full brightness there is a click beyond that for the dome light.
If the headlights are off (**** in) you have no dash lights anyhow.
But if the **** is in middle (park or running lights) the instrument lights are on and remain on and the interior lights come on too.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Perhaps my '87 switch is different.

On mine when you turn the switch to full brightness there is a click beyond that for the dome light.
If the headlights are off (**** in) you have no dash lights anyhow.
But if the **** is in middle (park or running lights) the instrument lights are on and remain on and the interior lights come on too.
The switches from the 60's to 1991 operate in a similar fashion. There may be some circut differences between models but how they function with the **** didn't change for a long time.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 01:57 PM
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in the past the instrument lights would always stay on when i turned the dome light on, assuming the headlights or parking lights were on. well i was driving at night with the lights on, hit the dome light to check the vacuum gage, and the dash went dark. i wiggled the switch, and they flickered on and off, which points to bad connections in the switch.

the plug on top of the switch was not replaced, though it should have been. maybe i should start with that, and inspect the switch as i'm at it.

i've never had that dead spot in the switch that franklin describes, not in any of my rigs.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 02:54 PM
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Well, maybe mine is broken. But it's consistent and been like that for years. It may just have a dead spot like you mentioned.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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Josh,
When you have it out look closely at the 'arm' that rides on the rheostat spring when you click it over to the dome light position.

Last time I lost my dash lights the little arm had fallen off completely.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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franklin, i suspect yours is broken or corroded up causing that dead spot.
i'll try to tear into it sometime this week and i'll let you guys know what i find
 
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