'85/'82 build thread
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 352
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From: Lucknow, ON
This truck is a nightmare. It hates me. It simply refuses to leave the garage.
After figuring out the starter problem, I put on the manual trans starter and put the header back on (fun) only to find that my dust shield was bent and as a result when the starter is bolted on, it rubs on the flywheel and makes a delightful scraping sound. Gary I think I read one of your posts a long time ago about not bending the dust shield as it is awful to try to straighten it - I can now vouch for that. So, off came the starter and header a third time. I fixed that issue and hit the key. It fired right up and idled like a little sweetheart... Then quit.
Turns out a bad ground on the fuel pump kept blowing fuses. So we fixed that. Problem solved, so take it for a spin right? HAHAHA! NO!
Everything just seems great until I push in the clutch pedal and it's met with a squealing noise that only got louder, and now does it with the pedal not pressed in. So it seems as though I have a defective, albeit brand new release bearing. NOT a happy camper.
After figuring out the starter problem, I put on the manual trans starter and put the header back on (fun) only to find that my dust shield was bent and as a result when the starter is bolted on, it rubs on the flywheel and makes a delightful scraping sound. Gary I think I read one of your posts a long time ago about not bending the dust shield as it is awful to try to straighten it - I can now vouch for that. So, off came the starter and header a third time. I fixed that issue and hit the key. It fired right up and idled like a little sweetheart... Then quit.
Turns out a bad ground on the fuel pump kept blowing fuses. So we fixed that. Problem solved, so take it for a spin right? HAHAHA! NO!
Everything just seems great until I push in the clutch pedal and it's met with a squealing noise that only got louder, and now does it with the pedal not pressed in. So it seems as though I have a defective, albeit brand new release bearing. NOT a happy camper.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Man, you'd have no luck at all if it weren't for bad luck! That's a pain to have to pull the tranny back. But you should be able to get the bearing out without full pulling the tranny out.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Lucknow, ON
At least I know all the bolts will come out. It's just such a heavy old sow of a transmission, it's not going to be fun. I think I can unbolt the crossmember and slide the trans and case back far enough to change it out. I'm away next weekend so it can sit for two weeks. Maybe by the time I get back the urge to burn it or scrap it will have passed...
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Lucknow, ON
From the trans to the bellhousing? They'd need to be a little longer than the input shaft, right? I'm just trying to remember how it goes together.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, from the trans to the bell housing. The tranny only has to come back about 3" for the input shaft to be free of the clutch and pressure plate. A bit more and you can slip your hand in and swap the throughout bearing. So bolts about 4" longer than the stock ones might be long enough, although longer will give you more room to work.
And you wouldn't have to cut the heads off if they are long enough, which would prevent the tranny from coming off the end. But you aren't going to be placing the whole weight of the tranny on those bolts as you want the rear supported with the crossmember.
And you wouldn't have to cut the heads off if they are long enough, which would prevent the tranny from coming off the end. But you aren't going to be placing the whole weight of the tranny on those bolts as you want the rear supported with the crossmember.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 352
Likes: 2
From: Lucknow, ON
Yes, from the trans to the bell housing. The tranny only has to come back about 3" for the input shaft to be free of the clutch and pressure plate. A bit more and you can slip your hand in and swap the throughout bearing. So bolts about 4" longer than the stock ones might be long enough, although longer will give you more room to work.
And you wouldn't have to cut the heads off if they are long enough, which would prevent the tranny from coming off the end. But you aren't going to be placing the whole weight of the tranny on those bolts as you want the rear supported with the crossmember.
And you wouldn't have to cut the heads off if they are long enough, which would prevent the tranny from coming off the end. But you aren't going to be placing the whole weight of the tranny on those bolts as you want the rear supported with the crossmember.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
You may have to lower the back of the tranny some to get it to clear the firewall. I'm spoiled because I have a lift and tranny jack, but I think you can do it on the ground easily by raising the tranny at the rear and pulling the crossmember. Then put a jack stand under the rear of the engine's pan, with a piece of wood to spread the load. Lower the rear of the tranny to put the engine on the stand, and then pull the bolts loose. You shouldn't have to lower it much, and maybe not at all. But, thought you should know what I've had to do.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Lucknow, ON
Good news finally! It wasn't the release bearing after all. It was the dust shield - again. Dad wasn't convinced it was the bearing so while I was away this weekend he pried the shield back a bit and that was that. Out the door it went on it's maiden voyage down the driveway with no hickups so far. Will post pictures tonight, it looks hilarious with tiny little 235s on it. Cleared the door just fine with them too.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Lucknow, ON
Here it is, the first time outside under its own power in almost 15 years!
Hanging out with little brother. The little 235/75-15s cleared the doorway nicely. Pretty comical looking though.
Hanging out with little brother. The little 235/75-15s cleared the doorway nicely. Pretty comical looking though.
