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White smoke and rough

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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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White smoke and rough

The old IDI started running rough the other day. She idles rough , sounds like it's got a dead cyl., but when I loosen fuel lines with the engine running I don't get a miss on any one cyl. I get a lot of white smoke that smells like fuel. I'm guessing I may have an injector stuck open. We have another engine in the shop that has had the injectors replaced. They probably have 6000-8000 miles on them. I think we're going to try change injectors and see what happens.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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Definitely sounds like leaky injector, if it doesn't clear up it may not be a return line issue, those tend to clear up after several minutes idle.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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I was hoping maybe a return line but we just had the right side head off a few weeks ago to remove a broken glow plug so I know the o-rongs and hoses should be good. It doesn't clear out either. It looks like the injector change out is on.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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OK, we changed the injectors out last night and still the same thing. I'm wondering about the IP now. I'm guessing it could do the same thing as bad injectors? She idles rough but loosening lines doesn't give me a dead miss. Going down the road, it rolls white smoke and when you lug it down low, it shutters/shakes.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:59 PM
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How many miles are on the IP? Typically you replace IP and injectors at the same time, around 150k miles, but it may be the oddball time that you may have received a defective injector (cause I received two bad onces out of eight) Before spending the $550 on a remanned pump, do a pop test on the injectors if you are able to. They should open up at about 1800ish PSI with no leaks or drips.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:45 PM
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do a compression test first, white smoke means no combustion, find a laser temp indicator and see if one cylinder is not firing, may have a bent valve.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Nero Morg
How many miles are on the IP? Typically you replace IP and injectors at the same time, around 150k miles, but it may be the oddball time that you may have received a defective injector (cause I received two bad onces out of eight) Before spending the $550 on a remanned pump, do a pop test on the injectors if you are able to. They should open up at about 1800ish PSI with no leaks or drips.
It's a DPS Turbo Cal. Pump and DPS Stage 1's so that's probably where the problem lies. just about the time I had received mine the hate and faulty parts threads across all the boards started about them and IIRC they went under. Will be uber PO'd if I spent like $800-$900 on garbage.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 2020
It's a DPS Turbo Cal. Pump and DPS Stage 1's so that's probably where the problem lies. just about the time I had received mine the hate and faulty parts threads across all the boards started about them and IIRC they went under. Will be uber PO'd if I spent like $800-$900 on garbage.
I've never had first hand experience with DPS, and would prefer it to stay that way being as it is in the Hall of Shame. You could still do what Speedwrench said, but knowing that you have DPS pump and injectors, I'd go with that.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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The DPS products werent really the problem. It was the guy selling them. The pump builder was independant of DPS and imo did good work, he was also the guy who built the first DB2 / 4 hybrids.

Have you made sure you didnt just get a bad tank of fuel? Throw some ATF in the filter and some diesel klean in the tank and let us know what happens.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 07:21 PM
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Well, we haven't had a lot of time to work on the old truck but I found the problem this morning. I told my son the next day after it started running bad that we would probably pull the valve covers and check the valve train. I started overthinking the diesel stuff I guess. I should have went with my first hunch. I found a rocker arm loose today.
 
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