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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Need some help.

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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:16 AM
  #61  
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so Does it run Better???

and you just have the DTC???

And How are you checking it with the DVM
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #62  
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Runs great.
Just the DTC code P0262
Checking it on scangauge2
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #63  
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Great

Do as TIM mentions unhook batteries for 30 minutes with headlights on

then when you start the truck after that the Dash gauges should all do a Full Sweep then you know the PCM has Been reset

Iv had a Hard time Clearing DTC with SGII as well
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:26 PM
  #64  
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You guys rock. That cleared it!! Thanks!!!!

Now on to my coolant leak and flush. I haven't read the tech article yet but it seams to be driver side and dripping on the frame rail. I'm guessing it's coolant honestly, no clue. It has no smell or color. Leaves a spot on the driveway but dries up, unlike oil but has an oily feel to it like diesel fuel. Its not coming from the frame rail oil filter area. The degas bottle is full of crap looking like cream cheese and scaling inside. I going to remove and clean the bottle and go from there.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:31 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by scrambler304
You guys rock. That cleared it!! Thanks!!!!

Now on to my coolant leak and flush. I haven't read the tech article yet but it seams to be driver side and dripping on the frame rail. I'm guessing it's coolant honestly, no clue. It has no smell or color. Leaves a spot on the driveway but dries up, unlike oil but has an oily feel to it like diesel fuel. Its not coming from the frame rail oil filter area. The degas bottle is full of crap looking like cream cheese and scaling inside. I going to remove and clean the bottle and go from there.
Check the hose that runs around the back of the FICM next to the firewall. It can get a hole in it from rubbing the corner of the FICM.

Sounds like the degas bottle has old oil from a failed oil cooler repair?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:51 PM
  #66  
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You are spot on!!! I can't see a "hole" per say in the hose by the FICM but it's damn close to becoming one!! I bet under pressure it's leaking there. Now that hose is crimped on at one end. Recommended fixes? Cut, nipple and two hose clamps?? Or replace that hose all together?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by scrambler304
You are spot on!!! I can't see a "hole" per say in the hose by the FICM but it's damn close to becoming one!! I bet under pressure it's leaking there. Now that hose is crimped on at one end. Recommended fixes? Cut, nipple and two hose clamps?? Or replace that hose all together?
It comes as an assembly so you'll either have to cut, nipple, and clamp or replace the whole thing. I replaced mine but it was also 10 years old. Adding a nipple will allow you to add some extra length and get it away from the FICM.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 06:55 PM
  #68  
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So far so good, no leaks. Thanks for the help. Everyone

On a side note.... Since I saved a few $$$ doing the repair myself and decided to not to trade her in" Y'all saved her from the chopping block", its time for some upgrades. Ordered a MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust w/ muffiler and autometer pyrogauge w/ pillar mount. Laughing, I repeated myself a few times on here asking EGT, fuel pressure, and the scangauge. It took a couple of times but it finally got thought. Thanks for putting up with the repetitive questions, that's what happens when I stay up too late reading on here. I forget what I asked the day before.

Anyway, once I've got the pyro installed and see where my EGT temps are. I'm sending FICM off for an upgrade. Fun times ahead!!!

Thanks again for all the help from everyone.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by scrambler304
So far so good, no leaks. Thanks for the help. Everyone

On a side note.... Since I saved a few $$$ doing the repair myself and decided to not to trade her in" Y'all saved her from the chopping block", its time for some upgrades. Ordered a MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust w/ muffiler and autometer pyrogauge w/ pillar mount. Laughing, I repeated myself a few times on here asking EGT, fuel pressure, and the scangauge. It took a couple of times but it finally got thought. Thanks for putting up with the repetitive questions, that's what happens when I stay up too late reading on here. I forget what I asked the day before.

Anyway, once I've got the pyro installed and see where my EGT temps are. I'm sending FICM off for an upgrade. Fun times ahead!!!

Thanks again for all the help from everyone.
LOL--you're hooked. Use the KISS rule and do the maintenance and it'll run for a long time.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #70  
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Laughing....... New Gauges equal more questions. :-)

So I received and installed a fuel pressure gauge and pyro. Pyro in is installed in the driver side manifold before the up pipe.
I have read the normal ranges for both in the tech folder and I'd say I'm within them but only because I backed out of the skinny load pedal to the right. Fuel under hard acceleration is getting down to almost 52/53 which I think is fine. Stays at 60 any other time. I have the blue spring upgrade installed, so it's kinda what it is.

But from a rolling 25/30mph to hang on wide open throttle, my pyro runs up to 1300 when I get to about 80mph and I let off. Now the truck still has plenty more get up and go and at the speed the needle is moving up when I let off, it seams it wasn't stopping anytime soon either. I see posted in the tech folder that 1300 should be an alarm. So is it normal to be able to hit the limit that easily?

Stock exhaust and SCT programmer. I see that tuners add a little to the number but the alarm is still at 1300 deg.

The reason I'm recording these numbers is my 4" MBRP turbo back finally arrived today (go figure I'd have a winter storm to make me wait an extra week for UPS) and I wanted a baseline to go off of.

Side question? Does anyone know what resistor you'd put inline to reduce voltage from 12vdc to 2vdc? The dang autogauge C2 gauges are way TOO bright at night. With the dimmer all the way down is perfect but then you can't see any of the stock gauges.

 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 05:09 PM
  #71  
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1300 is nothing to worry about. I've seen 1600+ more times than I care to worry about and never melted anything. I don't keep it there tho.
 
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