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SES Light on, shuddering at 40-55MPH and cold start

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SES Light on, shuddering at 40-55MPH and cold start

 
  #1  
Old 02-16-2016, 01:30 PM
Zachsquatch
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SES Light on, shuddering at 40-55MPH and cold start

Hi everyone, I have been lurking around here and other forums a bit before I bought a 99 f-250 7.3 a month or so ago and am impressed with the level of knowledge and hospitality you all show. This is my first diesel so I am completely new to a lot of the issues that occur with one and many of the diagnostic tests needed to troubleshoot.


When I purchased the truck the guy said it was very cold natured and I would have to plug in the block heater if it got chilly out. I didn't realize just how bad that problem was and have since had to keep it plugged in even on very mild nights to get a quick start. I have been very careful to let it warm up for 15-20 mins before I start driving it.

Also, I have noticed at around 40-55 MPH and light pressure on the gas I get a shudder, it was worse before I added a friction modifier to the oil but it is still there constant in overdrive.

As I was driving two or three days ago in a light rain (the first since I bought the truck) I noticed the SES pop on and stay on. Being new to the diesel world I immediately pulled into Autozone and tried to get a code, but with no luck. The truck has been running a bit rougher since the light came on and I am noticing a marginal power loss.

So my questions are: Where can I get the codes pulled off? I have been looking at buying a scan tool but the AE is out of my price range and the other options seem to have mixed results. Also, do any of the problems seem to be related or could it just be a few different issues that need to be ferreted out? From what I've read it seems possible for the UVCH to be the issue here, is that correct?

Again, I am really new to diesels so I may have been having loss of power even before this and not known it due to my inexperience.

Thanks guys.

BTW I live in the Fort Smith area of AR if there is anyone generous enough to lend a hand, it would be much appreciated and I will provide food, lol.
 
  #2  
Old 02-16-2016, 03:35 PM
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Hi and welcome to FTE!

I'm not the expert here, but will toss a few ideas until the "real" smart guys come along

Does it run rough when parked and not in gear?

When is the last time you changed the oil and what brand and weight? The injectors run off oil pressure, so these are really sensitive, needing to have clean oil.

You certainly want to have the SES read. It could be not a big deal, could be transmission, or anything in between.

OBDII, PWM1850 is the standard for connecting and reading our PCMs.
 
  #3  
Old 02-16-2016, 04:58 PM
Zachsquatch
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It does run a bit rough in idle but I am not sure if it is a normal diesel roughness or excessive. If it's a cold start it fires several cylinders and then acts like it wants to die then fires again which makes me think half of the cylinders aren't working properly leading me to the UVCH. I'm not too sure about the oil change because I just purchased the truck, it's a recent one (still looks clean). I'll try to see if another autoparts place might have a scanner that can handle just the basic codes for it.
 
  #4  
Old 02-16-2016, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Zachsquatch View Post
It does run a bit rough in idle but I am not sure if it is a normal diesel roughness or excessive. If it's a cold start it fires several cylinders and then acts like it wants to die then fires again which makes me think half of the cylinders aren't working properly leading me to the UVCH. I'm not too sure about the oil change because I just purchased the truck, it's a recent one (still looks clean). I'll try to see if another autoparts place might have a scanner that can handle just the basic codes for it.
Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w-40w oil for under about 80F. Helps even tired injectors.

Would be smart to look into the UVCH again.

Check this link, maybe someone near you has AE and can run a scan for you? https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...Y.k-5F24-dUkj8
 
  #5  
Old 02-16-2016, 06:40 PM
Zachsquatch
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Okay, I checked out the map, it looks like there is someone in Russellville "gradyc" which is not too far, I'll try to send them a PM. I will definitely put a good oil in when I do the next change along with something like Rev-x or Archoil. I suppose the next thing is to crack open the valve covers and check the connections if I can't get in touch with someone with a scanner.

I also noticed a very slight amount of smoke coming from the side of the valve vent which seems wrong to me. Is this due to an o-ring or is it normal?
 
  #6  
Old 02-16-2016, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Zachsquatch View Post
I also noticed a very slight amount of smoke coming from the side of the valve vent which seems wrong to me. Is this due to an o-ring or is it normal?
Can you describe the smoke? Does it seem like oil, fuel, electrical?

Got a pic of where it is coming from?

Does there seem to be an oil leak somewhere on the engine?

There is a rectangular piece on top of the Driver side valve cover (Crankcase vent) that should have a piece of tubing from it to the underside of your intake air tube that goes from the air filter to the turbo. Is it coming from there?
 
  #7  
Old 02-16-2016, 07:37 PM
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The smoke is from the rear side of the crankcase vent, it's not oily it's a grey smoke and it's pretty light. It's like the crankcase vent is leaking the smoke out instead of pulling it back into the intake.
 
  #8  
Old 02-16-2016, 08:03 PM
Zachsquatch
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Okay, so I'm probably an idiot. I just went out to take a look at the smoke again and noticed that when I put the oil additive in the other day I forgot to put the oil fill cap back on (I'm smart). I've put the cap back on. Could this be throwing a code and if it can, would it cause any of the power issues I was describing?
 
  #9  
Old 02-16-2016, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Zachsquatch View Post
Okay, so I'm probably an idiot. I just went out to take a look at the smoke again and noticed that when I put the oil additive in the other day I forgot to put the oil fill cap back on (I'm smart). I've put the cap back on. Could this be throwing a code and if it can, would it cause any of the power issues I was describing?
LOL, good catch. We've all been there- on the "dummy train" Unfortunately, some of us keep missing our stop, haha.

I don't know if that would throw a code or not?

I've never added anything to my oil, though some have for their injectors. You might want to search "stiction" or something like that. Mostly you read about it with 6.0L, but I've read of some using it with 7.3L

Sorry I'm not more help
 
  #10  
Old 02-16-2016, 09:30 PM
Zachsquatch
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I did a lot of reading on the stiction issue with the injectors and thought the additive might do the trick. I just took it for a drive again and my power is significantly reduced from when I got the truck. It revs up but just doesn't have the umph it used to. I'm going to really try to get the code on it tomorrow. Thanks for your help though.

Any ideas on the smoke from the ccv?
 
  #11  
Old 02-16-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Zachsquatch View Post
Any ideas on the smoke from the ccv?
I don't know. If it is oily mist, I guess that's what the CCV (Crank Case Vent) is there for, to allow that pressure to vent.

Does it smell burnt, or any idea what kind of smoke?

There is almost always a mist coming out of the oil filler tube if the cap is off. Is it possible it being off allowed enough oil to spray around, maybe burning off the manifolds?
 
  #12  
Old 02-17-2016, 02:16 PM
Zachsquatch
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Okay so I dug into the CCV and it looks as though one of the o-rings from it to the valve cover was misaligned and it was leading to the smoke coming from between the CCV and the valve cover, one mystery solved.

I am planning on cracking open the valve covers on both sides and checking the UVCH. So in prep for that I took of the air intake tube and housing and the turbo tubes. Inside the tubes coming off of the turbo TEE I found oil in there, is this normal?

I also did the check on the ohms for the 42 pin connector to each injector and they were all normal, does this mean my UVCH is fine or could it still be loose?

Is there a way to update the thread name or should I just start a new thread? I am thinking the situation has evolved to a more serious one with a more specific set of problems. I am stuck here in fort smith while I try to fix this problem out and I have a 32' camper I need to haul soon down in Hot springs, and all my tools are down there too so I am kinda limited on what I can do, I think I may need some help. I tried a few of the guys on the map but I can't PM yet. I'm stressing pretty bad about this, any help would be appreciated greatly.
 

Last edited by Zachsquatch; 02-17-2016 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Forgot something
  #13  
Old 02-17-2016, 02:45 PM
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Might be helpful to start a new thread. Seems like you're stuck with just me here and that's 3rd string, lol.

More when I get back this eve
 
 
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