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I was in my work truck, 07 6.0 f-250, on a job and had been idleing for a while because it was 20 degrees out side. I went ot leave location to get lunch and as I went around a turn that I had lifted off of the accelorator for, the truck just died like you had turned off the key. I pushed it off the road and drianed the fuel sepperator and checked for blown fuses. I didnt find any problems. I was ready to let it beside the road and I thought I would tried to start it one more time. I fired right up. I noticed that the temp had had fallen back down to cold. It had set for about an hour or so. I did get a check engine light but was unable to have it check because there wasnt any where to check it but I made it to the hotel and went first thing in the morning. The check engine light wasnt on. They did pull a coed P0262. The truck is sometimes running a little sluggish and has an iradic idle. I really need my truck for my work. I do have the 200k mile warrenty on the motor so it is completely stock. Please help me get her back up and running like her old self.
You need to check the FICM voltage. That's what I suspect. It could be the HPOP/STC fitting but IIRC it's not common on 07 trucks. The P0262 (injector circuit short to ground) code usually has a lot more with it if it's the FICM, but not always. If you have a DVOM and an 8mm wrench and a 20? torx bit you can check the FICM voltage.
You need to check the FICM voltage. That's what I suspect. It could be the HPOP/STC fitting but IIRC it's not common on 07 trucks. The P0262 (injector circuit short to ground) code usually has a lot more with it if it's the FICM, but not always. If you have a DVOM and an 8mm wrench and a 20? torx bit you can check the FICM voltage.
At least some of the 07's didn't get the STC bracket. Even if they did, the bracket has not been 100% effective.
The FICM was replaced about 8 months ago when I was haveing problems cranking over. what are the proceedures for checking the FICM?
How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
I thought they had all been updated by 07 to the newest style fitting, but I suppose not. In that case it could easily be an STC/HPOP problem.
My mistake Tim!! I believe you may be correct!!
It seems that the bracket came out in June of 2006. Do you know if it is all 2007 year models?
Edit - now I am confused ...........
I have some conflicting information!!!
Looking at TSB 06-14-6 (DATED July 2006) it is the recommended procedure for installing the bracket. It states that it applies to the following:
ISSUE
Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty, 2005-2006 E-Series, and 2005 Excursion vehicles equipped with a 6.0L diesel engine may exhibit a hard start / long crank or no start condition due to low injection control pressure (ICP).
ACTION
Use the following Service Procedure to identify a fault in the high or low pressure oil system.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Perform the revised Powertrain Controls / Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) lead diagnostics Section 4, Hard Start / No Start Diagnostic Procedure Tests 10e and 10f. These tests were revised in January 2006.
2. If the leak is isolated to the high pressure pump Snap to Connect (STC) quick connect fitting, replace the male and female fittings and install a STC bracket. All the necessary components are included in the STC kit. Follow the installation instructions included in the kit.
So ..................
this indicates that the bracket repair applies to at least some F series 06 and 07 models. The 06 models up until July 2006 did not have the bracket at all, maybe none of them did off of the production line??? Apparently even some of the early 2007 model years did not even have the bracket .......
Do you know when the 2007 first began being produced? I thought the '07 production run actually began later in '06 than July??
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Edit again .........
The TSB for the new one piece fitting is TSB 08-18-6. It came out in August 29, 2008. I originally thought that this must have meant that none of the 2007's had the one piece fitting, but apparently not. The verbiage seems to indicate that it applies to vehicles that have the STC fitting OR MIGHT HAVE THE ONE PIECE FITTING. So, back to the original dilemma - when in the 2007 prduction run did the one piece fitting come out??
Is it possiable that is is the ICP and not the FICM?
Yes, but usually with HPOP/ICP related stuff it should throw an ICP related code. Instead it threw an injector related code. Also, Swamps diesel, who rebuilds a LOT of FICM's has already reported getting FICM's that have 2010 remanufacture dates (Ford/IH units).
SO I think when I had the ficm replaced that it cost me like 100 bucks because of the extened warrenty. Should I go that route to save money or is there a better option? Like everyone else, money is tight right now.
With the FICM being replaced only 8 months ago it should be under warranty regardless plus that's an emission related item anyway so if it was a Ford warranty it should have been at $0??? IMHO it shouldn't cost you anything.
I bought the truck used from a ford dealor. It had 50,000 miles when I bought it. When the FICM went out it had around 80,000 on it. The guy behind the counter said it wasnt covered under the ford warrity and that the 200k warrenty had a dedecable I had to meet. Does that sound reasonable?
I bought the truck used from a ford dealor. It had 50,000 miles when I bought it. When the FICM went out it had around 80,000 on it. The guy behind the counter said it wasnt covered under the ford warrity and that the 200k warrenty had a dedecable I had to meet. Does that sound reasonable?
It definitely IS covered under the Ford warrranty 5yr/100K miles. I'd take him the paperwork and DEMAND a refund. It is, IIRC, covered under the emissions warranty at NO COST to you.
I took my truck to the same dealor this morning and they said that my FICM shouldnt be covered under warrenty. They believe that the FICM is the cause of my problems this time aswell. How should I go about makeing them realize it is covered under the warrenty? Also, I asked about since the other Ficm was replaced in Jan. with 80,000 miles would this one be covered because it hasnt been no time since the other one was replaced and they said no. I should have known better than to buy from this dealor, but it is too far to the other nearest one. Any advice is appreciated.
If I can't find what's covered under warranty Bismic has it. I guarantee you it's covered under warranty. Do a search for emissions warranty. It's been posted several times.
If you don't get satisfaction with this document call Ford customer care and they WILL take care of your complaint. They'll usually even call the dealer for you!!!
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