Hey guys, it's been a while since I've had any issues and found great help here last time. So I'll try my luck again. After two days of reading on here I still can't find an answer to my problem. I'll start by saying I know as much about diesels as I do ice fishing and I've never stepped foot on a frozen lake. So I don't know much of nothing on a diesel.

So I have a pretty much stock 06 F-350 SRW 6.0 with 180,000 miles on it. No mods other than an SCT tune, nothing crazy or extreme. Also an EGR bypass installed. Think my first screw up was being talked into using a synthetic oil instead of rotila at my last oil change, but might be coincidence, idk. I know I'm going back next time.

So anyway, a couple weeks ago the truck started running rough at idle like my old gas race car with a big cam. Then it cleared up on this little road trip and life went on fine for a week. I just thought it might have been a hung up injector or something. That was short lived....

Now it runs rough at idle and once you get to speed (60mph) and shifts to overdrive it about shakes the water bottles out of the cup holders. The other issue is I've had it just completely cut off twice this week. Backing out the driveway wasn't a big deal the first time it did it. Running about 40mph slowing to make a u-turn was a different story without power brakes. I've seen where others have talked about running rough but not the truck just cutting off. I get no warning lights or any other lights.

So I put my scanner on to see if it would read anything...
DTC: none
IAT: 44
ECT:164
TFT: invalid (Not sure if I had it warm enough)
VSS: 0.00 (parked of course)
Volts and boost: normal

That's all my scanner will read. Other than the TFT I didn't see anything but there isn't much to see with it's limited fields.

I'm not scared to turn a wrench and tear something up learning how to fix something..... but on diesel, I have no freaking idea where to start or what to check. Ford wants $150 for a Diagnostic and that may be well worth it, idk. That's why I'm asking here first.

So??? Fix it, trade it, or shoot it?
Thanks for any help.
Simon

 

Check FICM voltages and fuel pressure.

 

Spend the $150 at Auto Zone on a ScanGauge2. We'll help you set it up and you can diagnose it your self and have the unit when your done. Next time you'll save $150.

 

Thanks guys, both good points. :-)

Something I do recall now that you said voltage. When all this started my battery light fast blinks when the key is turned on position and the glow plug light is on. I don't remember it doing this before. And tonight when I was scanning, engine running, VPWR (voltage) was one time at 13.50 and another time at 11.something but went back to 13.50 and I noted the inside light get brighter. Not sure this has anything to do with anything but just remembered it.

I read the procedure on checking the FICM voltage and will check it tomorrow. Walked out there just now and said its too D*** cold to mess with it tonight!!

 

Ok, so I just read the scangauge2 will give you FICM voltage. Will it also give you fuel pressure or did I miss that in my reading?

 

A Bad Alternator or battery may have killed FICM


But there are other things that could cause this too


So a ScanGaugeII or DashBoss is Needed to check FICM and some other things

And also the FICM Needs checked while Running WOT IN ADDITION to KOEO Idle and 2500rpm Cold & Warm so you will need a Gauge for that


Your LOTS of Money ahead to get a Gauge and we will check everythinng

 

No it can't read fuel pressure.

 

No Fuel Pressure on a Stock 6.0L theres NO Sending unit and PCM don't use it

Now SGII Ill Only read stuff the PCM Uses

DashBoss has Add on Gauges advalible


ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools

DashBoss | A Brain Scan for your Vehicle

 

Synthetic Oil will run better Cold

The Diffrence you saw at First right after OIL Change was the OLD OIL was Sheared Thinner thus it could flow easier

And New Oil Was thicker

You Shouldn't have any issues Directly relaited to your recent oil change TYPE The problem is something else

 

In addition to checking the FICM voltage and fuel pressure I would take it to autozone and have them pull the DTC's, my bet is a dead or malfunctioning injector, you would be amazed how bad it will run with 1 bad injector, it will turn the mighty 6.0 into a gutless wonder. You could also pull and clean the EGR valve.

 

Haven't even checked my FICM yet but just planing ahead if mine is bad. Calling around and checking online I see a big price difference. Advance Auto seams to have them at $260 and I can get it tomorrow. Ford dealer is upwards of $760 and talking about having to program it. I see many online at diesel places saling for around $400/500 bucks.

So I'm asking if mine is bad, does anyone see why not to go with the one from advance for half the cost???

Picking up the scangauge2 at lunch so I'm sure I'll be back on here asking for programming codes. Just a warning.

Also thanks for all the help so far!!!!

 

Send it to Ed @FICMrepair.com ....he's the man,hands down..........your truck will love you for it

 

Send yours off to Ed at FICMrepiar.com. you will get it back without having to take it down to the dealership for programming and it will be better then factory and cheaper.

 

Ok. Bought the scangauge2 and programmed to give me the FICM voltages. Everything looks good to me...
FMP 47.5-48.0 switch on, cranking, and running
FLP 11.5-13.5 ignition on then running
FVP 11.5-13.5 ignition on then running

All if this above were taken with the truck hot bc I had to use it to go buy the scangauge.

 

Also, I ran the truck up to 2,500 RPM and got the same high end numbers as running at idle