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engine heating question

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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 01:17 AM
  #16  
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If you're going to idle, high idle helps quite a bit but it's still better to drive it.
When cold, high idle will run 5 PSI boost for 2-3 minutes automatically in the beginning.
If I high idle for five minutes (while scraping ice), I'll get heat on the road more quickly than normal or 10 minutes high idle the cab will begin to get warm but it's a huge waste of fuel.
I also don't have the supplemental heater and it's cold for awhile.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 02:21 AM
  #17  
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It High Idles For A While.... I DrOve Hom When I Put It In Park ItWas Still High Idling. Its Deleted So I think That Helps It Stay Cooler
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 08:02 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by rtazz17
Only problem with that when its 5 degrees out is the windshield fogs over completely.Atleast mine does.So I let it warm just enough to get past that point and drive off.
rtazz17 -- mine is fogging up like crazy too...i'm at the dealer right now with it...does yours ever finally clear the windows?

I had a layer of ice on all 4 side windows this morning, and this was after running it at highway speed for almost an hour with the defrost on with full fan. Guys at the service desk were a bit surprised when I rolled in all frosted up after almost an hour...hopefully they find something wrong...because something definitely has to be...

Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 08:16 AM
  #19  
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In preparation for the -2F temps we got this morning (I know, spring break for you canucks!), I cut a piece of cardboard 24" x 36" to block the radiator off and stuffed it in front of the main radiator. That covers >95% of the radiator.

This morning I let the truck run 15 to 20 minutes before I left for work and the ECT was 114 when I pulled out of the driveway. 9 miles later when I arrived at work it was 176. That is a big improvement over the 156-165 that I would normally see at ambient temps of 20-30F. Cutting the airflow across the radiator does help, but unless you have the supplemental heat, you are still going to suffer for 20 minutes or more until the truck naturally reaches a high enough temperature to produce heat the old fashioned way. Idling doesn't seem to build much heat.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 08:52 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 720Deere
In preparation for the -2F temps we got this morning (I know, spring break for you canucks!), I cut a piece of cardboard 24" x 36" to block the radiator off and stuffed it in front of the main radiator. That covers >95% of the radiator. This morning I let the truck run 15 to 20 minutes before I left for work and the ECT was 114 when I pulled out of the driveway. 9 miles later when I arrived at work it was 176. That is a big improvement over the 156-165 that I would normally see at ambient temps of 20-30F. Cutting the airflow across the radiator does help, but unless you have the supplemental heat, you are still going to suffer for 20 minutes or more until the truck naturally reaches a high enough temperature to produce heat the old fashioned way. Idling doesn't seem to build much heat.
I keep mine in the garage, so remote starting and letting idle for 10 min gets me to just about 100deg. I have a 25 mile ride to work and instill have fog in windows when it's 32-35F outside (had ice this morning at -6F). After the truck is up to temp, it still won't clear the windows. Seems like the moisture isn't being removed from the cab. I'm running it in defrost so it should be using the AC automatically as well. Hopefully these guys at the dealership can figure it out.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 08:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 720Deere
In preparation for the -2F temps we got this morning (I know, spring break for you canucks!), I cut a piece of cardboard 24" x 36" to block the radiator off and stuffed it in front of the main radiator. That covers >95% of the radiator. This morning I let the truck run 15 to 20 minutes before I left for work and the ECT was 114 when I pulled out of the driveway. 9 miles later when I arrived at work it was 176. That is a big improvement over the 156-165 that I would normally see at ambient temps of 20-30F. Cutting the airflow across the radiator does help, but unless you have the supplemental heat, you are still going to suffer for 20 minutes or more until the truck naturally reaches a high enough temperature to produce heat the old fashioned way. Idling doesn't seem to build much heat.
I may try the cardboard just to see if it makes any difference if they tell me all systems are checking out.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 10:06 PM
  #22  
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I have a dumb question...
How do I change the display view to see the external temp?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 10:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Fontana
I have a dumb question...
How do I change the display view to see the external temp?
If you have the nav screen controls it is on the bottom of the dual zone climate screen right below - EXT, on the right side.

I am not sure if the non-nav displays are like that. If not, look for an "EXT" button somewhere for "external temp". It should toggle between the climate zone you have set (single or dual) and the outside temp. When you adjust the cabin temp it will stay on cabin for a couple seconds then switch back to the outside temp.

On the warming up topic... the past couple days I have not had much heat to speak of coming out of my truck's vents - even with an hour and a half ride. The majority of the time it has been stuck in high idle, 1200-1500rpm, when in park or neutral. I don't have the rapid heat and have not had to deal with frosted over windows, but the air temp has been below 0 until this afternoon. I noticed my trans temp gauge on the dash was somewhat normal - middle of the scale - yet, my oil temp was very low. So I went back to Gauge Mode and saw the trans was above 160 and oil was in the 140's. Most of the time they are both within 10deg +/- of 200.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 11:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Fontana
I have a dumb question...
How do I change the display view to see the external temp?
On mine (2011 Ultimate with Nav), the EXT temp is on the climate control. You press the "EXT" button to display the exterior temp rather than the set interior temp(s).

 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by KC8QVO
If you have the nav screen controls it is on the bottom of the dual zone climate screen right below - EXT, on the right side.

I am not sure if the non-nav displays are like that. If not, look for an "EXT" button somewhere for "external temp". It should toggle between the climate zone you have set (single or dual) and the outside temp. When you adjust the cabin temp it will stay on cabin for a couple seconds then switch back to the outside temp.

On the warming up topic... the past couple days I have not had much heat to speak of coming out of my truck's vents - even with an hour and a half ride. The majority of the time it has been stuck in high idle, 1200-1500rpm, when in park or neutral. I don't have the rapid heat and have not had to deal with frosted over windows, but the air temp has been below 0 until this afternoon. I noticed my trans temp gauge on the dash was somewhat normal - middle of the scale - yet, my oil temp was very low. So I went back to Gauge Mode and saw the trans was above 160 and oil was in the 140's. Most of the time they are both within 10deg +/- of 200.
Sorry I should have stated that I traded in my 2011 for a 2014 dually. No EXT button. I'll check out the climate screen more closely. It probably just populates after adjusting temp.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 01:15 PM
  #26  
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You could limit how high the transmission shifts and thereby causing higher RPMs while driving just to cause the temp to rise faster. I use my block heater as well, in accordance to manual guidance, and the temps rise real fast to operating temp.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #27  
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RPMs are not the answer. It's higher turbo boost and it's associated higher EGT temps. If you run at higher RPM but lower boost your EGT will drop.

Higher EGT, the faster the block and coolant warm up because you have higher temps in the combustion chamber.

Watch you EGT temps when you lug the engine down the block at low RPMS but high load vs dropping a gear and running higher RPMs.

Now the higher RPMS will work IF you get the Turbo Boost up high.

Get your combustion chamber temps up high by increasing the boost and watch your coolant and and oil temps climb.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Lwsimon
rtazz17 -- mine is fogging up like crazy too...i'm at the dealer right now with it...does yours ever finally clear the windows?

I had a layer of ice on all 4 side windows this morning, and this was after running it at highway speed for almost an hour with the defrost on with full fan. Guys at the service desk were a bit surprised when I rolled in all frosted up after almost an hour...hopefully they find something wrong...because something definitely has to be...

Thanks.
oh yeah,clears quickly after im warmed up.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Fontana
Sorry I should have stated that I traded in my 2011 for a 2014 dually. No EXT button. I'll check out the climate screen more closely. It probably just populates after adjusting temp.
On my '14, the external temp is located in the middle of the top of the home screen on the Sync w/MFT. It's not something I have to select - it's just there.
 
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