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I would do a complete tune up. Cap rotar plugs and plug wires. Instead of autocraps go with motor craft atleast.
2X 75Three90. Not because I work at a dealer but because I think he's right. The terminals of Ford's 1977 and up 2 piece cap are the same as Hei. So go with 1977/82 351M or 400 wires. IMHO I remember where you said you work but I would go with Delco cap and rotor. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP aka Ford Motorsport) wires. They used to be made by MSD. I am assuming they still are.
M12259C301***302/351 Blue
M12259M301.....302/351 Black
M12259R301......302/351 Red
PM me if you want a price on this stuff. I can get the Delco stuff also.
It all reality if it isn't a beefy motor. Right around stock performance I would go with motorcraft wires. That's all I ran on my carb converted 90 fox with a he I and never had a problem.
P.S. every gm I've been around in with a hei dizzy has had these problems with caps hell I went through 2 caps before I fixed the spark issue with my stang I finally ordered one from summit I think it was a msd not 100 percent sure now that was several years ago.
It all reality if it isn't a beefy motor. Right around stock performance I would go with motorcraft wires. That's all I ran on my carb converted 90 fox with a he I and never had a problem.
Beings I work in the Parts Department of a Ford dealer I am a tad partial to Motorcraft stuff also. The FRPP ones are cylinder marked. But I agree, the Motorcraft ones would work fine.
I have found motorcraft to work great on some aplications and not to well on others. In my 460 motorcraft never would hold up. I had to use Bosch plugs and wires but on my 390 it ran the best with motorcraft parts
To me it makes the most since that it's ignition. If it was fuel there would be more cylinders with problems.
I had this engine completely apart and torn down. Anything that wasn't replaced was inspected and OK'd to run. (The crank and rods at this point) so to me it's almost impossible that it's a mechanical problem.
To clarify once and for all, my Pushrod problems were do to faulty lifters. I have had the engine apart since then, and the cam lobes are perfectly fine, and there is no valve damage at all.
I don't know what's wrong anymore. My engine is still Misfiring. Cylinder 7 is still the trouble maker. And a couple others might be weak. I've done everything I know how to do to diagnose and fix it.
So if any of you guys in the greater Phoenix area (south east valley would be great!) would be willing to help me out in getting my engine tuned up and running right, or know a shop or guy that knows the older engines I'm all ears. And if I could find someone that knows the 351C specially, well, that would be all too lucky.
So in reality it's still doing the same as it was before rebuilding it..
And you've thrown new dizzy's. A new cam, pistons, "Same intake & heads" Correct?
orich
Same heads and intake, but this is a entirely different engine that I rebuilt. The original is on a stand in my shed.
In short, the story goes, engine one ran great. Truck got replaced, so it got parked for the next 20 years. I take possession of truck. Engine one is misfiring and won't pass emissions anymore. Replace the basics on engine one, still don't run right. Engine comes out for rebuild. Meanwhile while browsing Craigslist, I run across engine 2 for a good deal and decide to buy and use it. Engine 2 gets minor overhaul but with all new valve train components and a hot cam. Still doesn't run right. Replace hot cam with stocker. Still don't run right. Distributor advance mechanism fails, replace stock with new HEI. (The HEI made a big improvement by itself, but still don't run right.) Engine gets pulled and heads taken off again. All is well except #7 rings are lined up. Re set rings and goes back together. Still don't run right. Decision is made to bore and install new pistons and rings. Current state.
If you really want to rule out ignition, take it to someone with an oscilloscope. By scoping it you can tell the health of every cylinder's spark definitively. No more looking at spark color or shocking you, get the actual numbers for your Firing KV and burn time. I find with tough problems it's best to get all the hard numbers and try not to jump to conclusions. Hope you get it sorted out!
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