I'll be anxious to hear how the grommet fits. May save me from making the sleeves.

I'm sure you told them what we think about Mr. gasket. If you went to the Skiatook O'Reillys then they heard the exchange between me and the guy that had 3 or 4 bad radiator caps from them. Everyone in that store agreed it is JUNK!

 

I ordered one of these a few minutes ago:

It fits the same size grommet we have on the fill cap side of our valvecovers(1.25")

 

Here is one in black:


Too bad they don't make Ford blue.

 

Here is a Transdapt that is blue:

 

Here is a link to that one:
Check these out as well:http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...thermount.html
However, the ones in the second link can be bought elsewhere cheaper than what their website lists them for(ie: Summit, Jegs, Amazon.

 

I don't think I'll have the clearance for one of those breathers below the snorkel. My thinking is that I'll run the PCV valve in the stock location on the passenger's side and plumb it to the back of the carb. Then I'll put one of the plastic 90 degree elbows in the grommet on the driver's side and run a hose to the little filter in the air cleaner. It will even look stock since the snorkel will cover the elbow and give me something to do with the hole for the filter in the air cleaner base.

The next thing to think about on the air cleaner is what to do with the "hot air" inlet on the driver's side snorkel. My plan is to plumb hot air to the inlet on the passenger's side snorkel, which will require making some kind of "stove" to fit around the headers on that side. But I don't think I need hot air on both sides so plan to close the hot air inlet on the driver's side off. Do I braze a piece onto the opening to close it? Do I cut the extra sheet metal off and braze a piece across the bottom of the snorkel?

I can post a pic of the extra metal that is on the snorkel if y'all don't remember what it looks like, but the HO snorkels are exactly like the standard ones so it is the same as on yours. Anyway, just capping it would mean that snorkel could be plumbed with hot air later if desired. But cutting the extra off would clean it up a bit. Thoughts?

 

The clearance issue sounds like a real problem for going with one of those breather caps. Looking back I remember the snorkel barely having enough clearance to get a PCV valve under it. So the breather cap being taller wouldn't work. Even if it did fit under there it would get rubbed excessively and ruined.

 

What worked well for me was to use a stock heat shield, the kind made of flimsy sheet metal. I think maybe mine came from a car but I don't recall for certain; in any case, I had to enlarge some openings a bit and I think maybe I used some extra washers to space it out a bit, but it was easy to make fit and it works pretty dang well.

As for what to do with your extra inlet stuff, I am generally hesitant to get rid of something I have (look in my garage and basement as evidence of that) for the just-in-case scenario of wanting to use it for something in the future. For the lower heated-air intake, I would want to figure some way of acquiring or fashioning up some sort of cap a la a coffee can cover maybe held in place with a factory hose-clamp-type of clamp originally used in that location to hold the tube in place.

For the top vacuum motor, I'd leave it, a smiley face would fit really well on there, or maybe a blue oval logo if you wanted to add a custom factory-like touch.

 

Gary, a couple of things to consider,

Symmetry - you have gone mirror image snorkels, so mirroring the actuators and hot air pipework would also look correct.

Airflow - you are building a big cube efficient motor that needs the twin snorkels for sufficient airflow, therefore you would also need the larger volume of hot air that twin hot feeds would supply in order to keep the carb happy when atmospheric conditions require that hot air.

Hot air capture- you can build custom sheet metal shrouds out of mild steel or aluminium to sit over the headers, mounted off studs or bosses welded to the header pipes. Or what I've seen on aftermarket headers here is a short piece of pipe welded to one or two header tubes to draw air through.
Now the short pipe probably works well here but it would not be enough for your winter conditions, so how do you think a full length pipe welded to the underside of the front header tubes with the top curved out to attach the air feed, the majority of the side notched out to be welded on creating a figure 8 sort of cross section would go?
You might need to do two header tubes each side with the air feeds teed together to get enough hot air as it does get damn cold there. You can then get the whole assembly coated together.
If you used smaller diameter tube it would also hide under there pretty well.

 

Chris - I'm kinda the same way on cutting things off. And with what Brad said it makes sense to keep the fitting on the underside of the snorkel in case I do need hot air from both sides. As for closing it off maybe I can find a body plug just the right size to cap it off. And, on the heat shield see below.

Brad - I do plan to have symmetry. Heretofore the plan has been to have both snorkels functional, meaning that both will have vacuum motors controlled by the air cleaner temp sensor (ACTS). And, both snorkels will be plumbed to the radiator support to get "cold" air. But, my plan had been to only have hot air to the passenger's side snorkel and block off the hot air inlet on the driver's side. My expectation is that when the air is really cold both flappers will close and, since the driver's side hot air opening is blocked, hot air will be drawn into the passenger's side snorkel.

But you think I need more hot air? In really cold weather I'm not going to "get on it" much, and will probably baby it until the engine is warm. And, if it falters that'll be a sign to back off. Hmmm, I'm not sure I want to set up two hot air "stoves", but.....

So, onto the "stoves". I do have most of the factory ones, so maybe I can do like you did, Chris, and use them with headers. But, I'm actually hoping to recreate them out of some stainless I have. However, the idea of welding some tubing to the headers may have some serious merit. Or, I think it was Jim or Dave that said they built a shroud that fits over one of the header pipes and works quite well. Looks like some fabrication of some kind will be called for.

 

Gary, my only negative with shrouds is that they are designed to hold heat in around the header tube, which then becomes a negative in summer. The tube idea leaves the majority of the header tube free to shed that heat in summer.

 

True. So let's go back to what you said about the "figure 8". I didn't understand that part.

 

But the flap in the snorkel stays put in the summer, the only air feeding the carb comes from the nose area.

 

Yes. But I'm probably missing what you are saying. Here's how it works - I think:

• Hot: The flaps will be open to the nose, and they will have the hot air inlet closed off. So cool air from in front of the core support is brought in through both snorkels.
• In between: The ACTS will, hopefully, open the flaps just enough to allow the right mix of hot and cold air in. But, I'm sure there will be some oscillating - open, closed, open, etc.
• Cold: Both flaps close off the nose openings and open the hot air inlet. But only one hot air inlet will allow air in as the driver's side will be blocked.

 

Ok, I'll try to explain,
The long run of the header tube is the straight pipe, take another length of pipe, sit it underneath to match the length of the straight run with a bend or two off the top end to bring the end out to an easy position for the hot air hose to connect to.

Now think pipe notching, but you are notching lengthways so that the two pipes can join together lengthways, with the lower end opening looking like a crescent moon, or a bold capital C.

So if you take a cross section of the two joined together it is like a O with a C attached to it "CO" or sort of a figure 8.