No start after studs, gaskets, etc
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Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 104
From: Monterey Bay, CA
No start after studs, gaskets, etc
If this was a 7.3, I could figure this out in no time. This is my step son's 05 6.0. For background, it has 101K miles. We just got done with headgaskets, headstuds, oil cooler rebuild, EGR delete, updated standpipes, injector o-rings, etc. The one thing we didn't replace/upgrade was the STC fitting. We got into it and found it already had the upgraded fitting. We replaced the o-rings on the IPR and the HPOP.
Fast forward to today. Everything is back together and we cycled the key a few times to prime the fuel system and then cranked with the FICM relay for a bit. Put the relay back in and cranked but no start. Hooked up AE and the truck has little to no ICP. The max I saw was about 3.5psi at 84% DC. The oil gauge on the dash does register LPO while cranking.
Any ideas?
Fast forward to today. Everything is back together and we cycled the key a few times to prime the fuel system and then cranked with the FICM relay for a bit. Put the relay back in and cranked but no start. Hooked up AE and the truck has little to no ICP. The max I saw was about 3.5psi at 84% DC. The oil gauge on the dash does register LPO while cranking.
Any ideas?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,246
Likes: 761
From: Houston, Texas
Did you refill the oil through the oil filter assembly?
If not, it's going to take some time to start.
I did dummy plugs and stand pipes on my buddy's '07 and it took some time (had to remove both rails to retrieve the bottom part of the stand pipe twice) , but the engine fired as it should.
If not, it's going to take some time to start.
I did dummy plugs and stand pipes on my buddy's '07 and it took some time (had to remove both rails to retrieve the bottom part of the stand pipe twice) , but the engine fired as it should.
Post Fiend
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 13,710
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From: Manchester, CT
Youre gonna need to keep cranking. Id put the batteries on a charger as well because those will drain fast. These trucks dont like to start after all that work, mine took like 2-3 minutes of cranking (with pauses every 15 seconds or so) to get started after head studs
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Roseburg, OR
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Thread Starter
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Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 104
From: Monterey Bay, CA
No. Any way to check the level in there?
Yup. All new Motocraft filters.
Yup. All new Motocraft filters.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 344
From: Breckenridge, TX
Drain out some oil, remove the oil filter and the standpipe, pour it into the hole. But that really won't gain you anything now, the oil cooler is after the LPOP and before the HPO reservoir, so it will fill first, and pretty quickly.
You can try pulling the filter and seeing if the LPOP fills the housing up when you crank it.
If it doesn't start after 3-4 minutes or so, maybe try pulling the ICP and see if it catches. Ultimately if it never starts you have to pull the valve covers/air test it see if there's a massive leak somewhere. But first use a watch, and give it a good 4 minutes before you worry. It can feel a lot longer when you have to listen to the "whine whine whine chug" of it turning over every 1.5 seconds.
You can try pulling the filter and seeing if the LPOP fills the housing up when you crank it.
If it doesn't start after 3-4 minutes or so, maybe try pulling the ICP and see if it catches. Ultimately if it never starts you have to pull the valve covers/air test it see if there's a massive leak somewhere. But first use a watch, and give it a good 4 minutes before you worry. It can feel a lot longer when you have to listen to the "whine whine whine chug" of it turning over every 1.5 seconds.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,723
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From: Roseburg, OR
I filled my HPO reservoir before placing the oil cooler housing on and mine fired up on the second 10 second crank.
I've heard most will spend a total of 3 minutes cranking to get theirs to fire without filling the reservoir.
I've heard most will spend a total of 3 minutes cranking to get theirs to fire without filling the reservoir.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
When I did the Oil Cooler in mine I forgot to prefill it But it only took about 1.5-2 Minutes of cranking to get it filled and start the truck
But since you drained the Oil Rails and ALL Im thinking you will need 2-4 minutes of cranking to fill all that back up
I wouldn't tear back into it just to prefill it Now
Just get the battery charger on it and go with 20 second Blasts then rest a few after 2-3 start cycles
But since you drained the Oil Rails and ALL Im thinking you will need 2-4 minutes of cranking to fill all that back up
I wouldn't tear back into it just to prefill it Now
Just get the battery charger on it and go with 20 second Blasts then rest a few after 2-3 start cycles
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
What do you figure your total Cranking time is So Far????
Kinda sounds like you guys have done a Fair amount of cranking already
Might need to pull the IPR back out to check it but lets make sure you have cranked enough to consider it had enough time to be at the point it should be Filled
Kinda sounds like you guys have done a Fair amount of cranking already
Might need to pull the IPR back out to check it but lets make sure you have cranked enough to consider it had enough time to be at the point it should be Filled
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Plus he said they changed the HPOP
And from that other thread where you comment about your neighbor and Mike said all new HPOP comes with STC
Shouldn't this guy have a New STC since they got a new HPOP