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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

No start after studs, gaskets, etc

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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #31  
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T
I wasnt trying to to be a smart a** or anything. Just saying there is hardly anything similar between the two. That it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 11:44 PM
  #32  
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Well, back on topic as it were. I just got home. I've been on the road 10 hours so you won't get much out of me tonight except this:

There is a crap load of water in the crankcase. Like milkshake oil crapton of water
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 11:48 PM
  #33  
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[QUOTE=duck fan;13799399]Well, back on topic as it were. I just got home. I've been on the road
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 11:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by duck fan
Well, back on topic as it were. I just got home. I've been on the road 10 hours so you won't get much out of me tonight except this:

There is a crap load of water in the crankcase. Like milkshake oil crapton of water
Did you drain the oil out when you did the head job? If you did then I would be looking at either cracked heads or cavitation on the front cover.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 12:24 AM
  #35  
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Yeah. Everything got drained. How could you have cavitation with just 3 mins of cranking? There was no water in the oil before the gaskets and all that.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by duck fan
Yeah. Everything got drained. How could you have cavitation with just 3 mins of cranking? There was no water in the oil before the gaskets and all that.
Yea it's weird. I am right there with you. I did not know the history of the truck, like how long u have owned it, did it run when you got it so on and so on. Anyway I doubt that it's cavitation as well. Did you get the heads checked out when your had them off? Decked? What caused you to do all the work
On the truck to begin with.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 08:18 AM
  #37  
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OK Great half brothers LOL


the principle of operation is same
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 08:34 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by duck fan
Well, back on topic as it were. I just got home. I've been on the road 10 hours so you won't get much out of me tonight except this:

There is a crap load of water in the crankcase. Like milkshake oil crapton of water
Sounds like something in the oil cooler rebuild didn't go quite right, but still very strange. Did you use an OEM oil cooler kit? Also, what kind of head gaskets did you use?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Sounds like something in the oil cooler rebuild didn't go quite right, but still very strange. Did you use an OEM oil cooler kit? Also, what kind of head gaskets did you use?
OEM head gaskets. Not so OEM oil cooler. My step son took it apart today and sure enough, one of the oil cooler o-rings was torn almost on half. Off to the dealer tomorrow for the oil cooler o-ring kit. I'm putting the part number here for reference. 3C3Z-9N693-A
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by duck fan
OEM head gaskets. Not so OEM oil cooler. My step son took it apart today and sure enough, one of the oil cooler o-rings was torn almost on half. Off to the dealer tomorrow for the oil cooler o-ring kit. I'm putting the part number here for reference. 3C3Z-9N693-A
I hope it is not a dorman oil cooler, if it is i would also get the oil cooler cover gasket from ford as well, as the green one from dorman is know to come apart and plug the screen under the oil cooler and the IPR screen and just make a basic mess of everything.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #41  
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Not Dorman, but did have a green cover gasket. I wonder if someone is repackaging Dorman coolers and reselling them or they just have the same source for orings and gaskets.

I bought the Ford oil cooler reseal kit and we changed out the orings and gaskets last night. It was too cold and too late to button it all up. My wife is bringing home a 60cc syringe tonight so we can suck out as much of the bad oil as possible.

I am not totally convinced the oil.water mixing was the cause of the no start but we have to tackle it first to get back to diagnosing the other issue.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Well that should have been enough crank to fill it


Pull the IPR and Inspect it

Have you verify LPO Flow into the oil filter house??

Got a Gauge or anything to get more info from ??I suspect you do since you reported ICP Value

Post these at KOEO and again at Cranking
ICP
ICPV
IPR%
FICM MP
FICM LP
FICM VP
FICM SYNC
CMP/CKP SYNC
VOLT
RPM
FPW
V-REF


Why was all this work done was it preventative or was it broke down???
The work was done as a preventative. The truck drove to the spot it sits now. Only issue was a wet EGR valve.

KOEO



CRANKING


 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:14 AM
  #43  
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I know just enough to make me dangerous but IIRC your ICP seems to be the issue. your IPR is good RPM's good but your ICP should be over 500 in order for the FICM to fire the injectors.

Either bad ICP harness/pigtail
Bad ICP
HPO leak.

I would inspect the ICP and Harness. And if so there is a procedure in the tech folder for pressure checking your HPO system.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 02:15 AM
  #44  
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When you reinstalled the HPO rails did you inspect the cups and injector heads for seal deterioration. You may have cut a seal upon install. Just a theory.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 06:39 AM
  #45  
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WHAT HE SAID^^^^

I will add to pull the IPR and Inspect the screen since that is common to fail after a Oil cooler work

Charge your batteryies they cranking to slow need 150 rpm+
 
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