1976 F150 4x4 360FE 4-speed manual

So I had to pull my starter to replace a freeze plug. When I was putting it back in, I snugged up the bottom two bolt and started on the top bolt. The ear broke off the starter before I could even get it tight. Weird, but not that big of a deal because I have the lifetime warranty.

I got a replacement and started installing it. Then I noticed that when the bottom two bolts are snug, the top ear is not in contact with the engine mount. There is 1/8 inch gap. That would explain why the ear broke off before when I tightened it.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15287645@N02/10888605304/" title="IMGP8407 by kramsallad, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/10888605304_968508d2d4.jpg" width="332" height="500" alt="IMGP8407"></a>

The question is how did it get like that?

The old starter was working fine and I didn't have any trouble getting it to go in. If it is was just the new one, I would just assume it was the wrong starter. I cleaned the mating surfaces.

What should I do? Get another starter? Shim it with a washer? I'm at a loss.

 

Make sure they actually gave you the right starter. I'm sure you know the nose cone is different between an automatic and a standard starter. IIRC the manual trans starter has a longer nose cone. You may be inadvertantly getting an automatic starter that isn't mounting up flush to your bellhousing.

That's my guess anyway. I'd check the mounting surface for any warped spots, cracks, etc and make sure it is all as level as possible. Outside of that I don't really have much a clue.

 

****Don't shim.******
IF you have the right starter it will fit.
It's a tough get while in the truck.
Try getting it a bit cleaner, it looks pretty rough.
Be patient.

 

First thing, don't tighten any bolts untill you have them all started. Pretend you're torquing down a head. Tighten in a pattern and tighten in stages. When you get to the point of snugging the bolts down do the top one first, and yeah, like Marc said, clean it up a little. Dirt can keep a starter from seating properly.

 

Okay, I figured out the problem. I am using the rubber plug-type freeze plugs because I can't find the brass cup style anywhere. Apparently the nut on the new one extends out farther than the old one and it is hitting on the starter. It only needs a little more clearance to work.

I need the 1-3/4" size plug. Does anybody have a source for these in the brass cup style. I can find the steel cup in the right size, but not brass. Everywhere I look says they are discontinued.

Should I get the steel cup? Is steel cup preferable to the rubber kind?

I have ground down the nut and I could do it a little more, but not much.

I see there is a 1-49/64, which is very very close to 1-3/4" Would that work? Not sure if I can find it in stock either. I have also seen some around 44mm, which is close as well. How exact does it need to be?

Thanks.

 

I got a complete brass set from NAPA, rock Auto also lists them.

 

Ok, I'll try again. The plugs they have listed for my truck are 1-1/2". I didn't ask for a kit, just a plug.

The big freeze plug right behind the starter was included in that kit?

 

There's no difference (unless it's a pre 65 FE) both are 184 tooth count.

 

the 1 49/64 IS the one to use, not the 1 3/4 the smaller (1 3/4) will fall out eventually

 

Ok, I wanted to come back and close out the thread in case anyone runs across the same issues.

The starter would not seat properly because the nut on the new freeze plug was contacting the case of the starter. I tried grinding down the nut, but I couldn't get it low enough to clear the starter.

I eventually was able to get Advance Auto to order the brass cup freeze plug in the right size. I got the 44.76mm (1.7622 inches) and it fit perfectly. Part number 333090.1. I used a combination of sockets, hammer, and air hammer to get it in. It actually wasn't that bad.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15287645@N02/10973030095/" title="IMGP8413 by kramsallad, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/10973030095_696268c020.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="IMGP8413"></a>

The only thing I am concerned about is the new starter I got on the warranty replacement. It just doesn't sound as powerful. Also, the casting on the ears is super thin. Good thing it has a lifetime warranty, I guess.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15287645@N02/10973263593/" title="IMGP8410 by kramsallad, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/10973263593_40f4f011bf.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="IMGP8410"></a>

 

Starter questions are right up my alley as I used to work full time in an auto electric shop. I still work part time doing it actually. The 360/390 3-bolt starter (Lester # 3131) is only made with one length nose. The 300-6cyl./302/351W 2-bolt starter comes in the long and short noses. The long nose is for the automatic transmission(Lester # 3124) and the short nose is for the manual transmission (Lester # 3132). There is also the 400/429/460 2-bolt starter (Lester # 3149). It has one hole with threads in it and one hole is an open hole.
Where did you buy your replacement starter? Let me guess.... Auto Zone or Advanced Auto or the likes? The nose in your picture above with the penny in it showing the thin aluminum of the starter nose is a Cha Cha China made nose. The reason those lifetime starters/alternaters are called lifetime is because you will spend your lifetime replacing them. Chinese made junk. I have built 1000's of the above Ford starters. I have also built many of the new PMGR Ford starters as well. I could have changed the nose one your once good working starter in about a minute or less. No lie.

 

Ha! FordFanBoy, I did the exact same thing - broke my starter because of one of those rubber freeze plugs. Glad I'm not the only one.