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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
You don't have to remove the oil rails to change the DP's and SP's Benny


Josh

Oh Chit your right

Well that would be great if that rail stayed put

Ya know I was thinking about welding those plugs Holes
But it kinda kills it or Commits to one side only
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:10 PM
  #17  
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Have you driven it since replacing the dp's and sp's?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #18  
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Ok I took it for a drive to warm it up. When I started it it took 3 seconds to start. So warm at 2500 rpm my ICP is 1400 and my IPR is 40. It did run a little ruff when it first started but that is the quickest it has started in a long time. I have OEM filters and OEM caps. I have been running 15w40 but I have been thinking about going to 10w30.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #19  
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The truck is starting and running great. I guess I should have run it more to get the air out of the system. Which is pretty bad considering I am a hydraulic mechanic. sorry it took so long to post my results it has been very busy lately. thanks for every ones help.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bubblechaser
The truck is starting and running great. I guess I should have run it more to get the air out of the system. Which is pretty bad considering I am a hydraulic mechanic. sorry it took so long to post my results it has been very busy lately. thanks for every ones help.


Thanks for posting outcome!!!!!!


Ford recommends a Few "SPIRITED RUNS" to purge air

No Biggie

Its Common here is a thread from yesterday
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-no-start.html
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 08:39 AM
  #21  
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Ok not trying to highjack but i am having a similar problem. I own a small business and just bought a new shop truck. 07 250 with 56000 some odd thousand miles on it. Found it at a local camper dealer. They said the previous owners used it to pull a 5th wheel camper and decided to buy a motor home so they traded the truck and camper in together.
I have been driving the truck daily for a couple of weeks now and have noticed that every once in a while it would take several seconds to start. I figured it was fuel filter problems so I changed them. It started great for a few days then started the long start problem again. Yesterday I drove about 20 miles and shut it off when I arrived but had to move immediately after I got there and it took 3 almost 10 seconds crank sessions to get it to crank.
Any ideas? I don't have a scanner to look at what sensors are doing so any other advice would be very helpful.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by droff85
Ok not trying to highjack but i am having a similar problem. I own a small business and just bought a new shop truck. 07 250 with 56000 some odd thousand miles on it. Found it at a local camper dealer. They said the previous owners used it to pull a 5th wheel camper and decided to buy a motor home so they traded the truck and camper in together.
I have been driving the truck daily for a couple of weeks now and have noticed that every once in a while it would take several seconds to start. I figured it was fuel filter problems so I changed them. It started great for a few days then started the long start problem again. Yesterday I drove about 20 miles and shut it off when I arrived but had to move immediately after I got there and it took 3 almost 10 seconds crank sessions to get it to crank.
Any ideas? I don't have a scanner to look at what sensors are doing so any other advice would be very helpful.
You need to get the truck code scanned and you need to get something to monitor what the truck's really doing through the OBDII port. ScanGaugeII, Dash Boss, Edge Insight are all good options. Most parts stores will code scan the truck for free. If I had to guess I'd say you were suffering from a high pressure oil leak but that's strictly a guess. There's no way to be intelligent without having some kind of data.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 09:05 AM
  #23  
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I also had that problem. It ended up being my ficm and battery's. You need to check your volts and ficm volts koeo and cranking. They should not drop below 45. When mine went bad I was dropping to 42 when cranking. Hot or cold it was taking a long time to start.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 09:12 AM
  #24  
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As a side point, I find it funny whenever a diesel doesn't start right the fuel filters are the first to be blamed.

This isn't the 1950s...

In 35 years of life I have only encountered one diesel that had plugged fuel filters, and that was a Deere 762B that had sand and dirt thrown in the tank by vandals.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 09:16 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by droff85
I don't have a scanner to look at what sensors are doing so any other advice would be very helpful.
My helpful advice would be...get a scanner so you can see what your sensors are doing.

Think of it this way....when we go to the hospital because out heart isn't ticking right, the medical staff use "monitors" to see what our body is doing. Depending on what their monitor tells them, they come up with a solution to your problem. The 6.0 is an engine that needs a monitor (scangauge, dashboss, torque, etc) to see what is going on in order to diagnose the problem. Once it is diagnosed, there are many 6.0 Dr's here that will come up with the the solution!

(I know that's a weird translation.....)
 
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