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Warm long crank ?

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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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Warm long crank ?

So I watched the you tube vids and set up my scan gauge
Have a 07 6.0 have a warm long crank and sometimes have to try twice to start when cold batteries good less than a year old spins good when starting
My icp is not getting to 500 but it starts first time I tried this morning cold went to 288 then started just tried agin was reading 13 when it started then jumped to 2200 when it started then fell back to about 800 at idle
Irp was about 77 during crank and then 27 running
Syc stayed at 0 . Should it run at 0?
Last night with a warm engine the icp was more in the 300-400 range and took longer to start about 10 seconds cold takes about 4-5 seconds
My sons 06 starts faster than mine always
And I have double checked the code for syc in the scan gauge
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:08 AM
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The usual suspects are standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fitting. You can do the air test to confirm but I would do the above mentioned regardless as they are known to fail and cause the exact problem you are describing.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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Before your next cold start, unplug the ICP sensor and see what happens. Make sure the connector is dry and not oil soaked.

Just because it's right there and it'll take 15 seconds to try before you tear the top off the engine for the STC.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:36 AM
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Yes sir good advice but the low icp numbers and the syc=0 and still starting just doesn't seem right to me.
That being said I just know enough to be dangerous
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Before your next cold start, unplug the ICP sensor and see what happens. Make sure the connector is dry and not oil soaked.

Just because it's right there and it'll take 15 seconds to try before you tear the top off the engine for the STC.
Where do I find the icp sensor?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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The ICP sensor is toward the front on the passenger side valve cover. And for what its worth don't wait for the STC to fail before you do something about it, if you let it fail it can crack the rear engine cover, which requires removal of the transmission or engine to gain access to repair it.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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#1 in this pic is the ICP sensor:


Originally Posted by Donzi Dude
Yes sir good advice but the low icp numbers and the syc=0 and still starting just doesn't seem right to me.
That being said I just know enough to be dangerous
The PCM needs to see a Sync=1 to start, but after that it'll bounce back and forth between the two, it doesn't stay on 1 constantly. The PCM might see it flip to 1 and he's just not seeing at which point the computer see it.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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Thanks I will try that when I get home from work today
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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So I unhooked the icp sensor truck started in about two seconds better than it has been.
Let it idle in driveway till to operating temp
Still starting good in about two seconds.
Let it sit about 20 mins. Tried again still starting good.
Am I lucky that this is the problem?
Looks like all you need is a deep well socket to replace it.
Would this also explain an intermittent rough idle when hot?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 06:08 PM
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So I hooked it back up to try it still starting good.
Possible bad connection?
Or something else to try
Did see my ficm voltage drop to 48 once usually stays at 50.5 some one must have put an upgraded ficm on it before I got the truck.
 
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