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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by UGA33
You want to delete the DOC/DPF. To accomplish this you can take two routes. You can run just a DOC/DPF delete pipe. This will delete the two, but bolt up to the stock down pipe and stock tailpipe. The other option is to do a full exhaust in either 4" or 5". Both options require the use of aftermarket tuners to tell the computer the sensors aren't in the exhaust anymore and to shut off the regeneration process. By doing this, the truck won't regen anymore, get better fuel mileage, not dilute the oil with diesel fuel, and run overall cooler. It's the best thing you can do to this truck.
The guy I was talking to today said they cut out the regen piece in his exhaust and put in a tuner.
Is this the same as you are talking about?
Im not familiar with all the abreveations yet?
DOC/DPF?
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:02 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by UGA33
You want to delete the DOC/DPF. To accomplish this you can take two routes. You can run just a DOC/DPF delete pipe. This will delete the two, but bolt up to the stock down pipe and stock tailpipe. The other option is to do a full exhaust in either 4" or 5". Both options require the use of aftermarket tuners to tell the computer the sensors aren't in the exhaust anymore and to shut off the regeneration process. By doing this, the truck won't regen anymore, get better fuel mileage, not dilute the oil with diesel fuel, and run overall cooler. It's the best thing you can do to this truck.
If you dont mind me asking, as I would really like to know sincerely.. I completely agree with the DPF delete and spartan tune to go along with it.. I am curious, so if you can explain this to me, that would be great... But how does one end up with fuel in the oil with this DPF system? Or is that not related? Thank you!
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:42 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Midwest Dually
If you dont mind me asking, as I would really like to know sincerely.. I completely agree with the DPF delete and spartan tune to go along with it.. I am curious, so if you can explain this to me, that would be great... But how does one end up with fuel in the oil with this DPF system? Or is that not related? Thank you!
The 6.4s have been known to not have the tightest piston rings. If you have ever noticed, they have more blow-by than say a 6.0 or 7.3. The fuel in the oil situation comes from the regeneration process when fuel is injected in the exhaust stroke. Most of this fuel is sent down the exhaust to create a fireball to clean the DPF out. Some seaps by the rings and ends up in the crankcase. All brands with DPFs will have a little fuel dilution. The 6.4s on average seem to have the most.
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Vinford

The guy I was talking to today said they cut out the regen piece in his exhaust and put in a tuner.
Is this the same as you are talking about?
Im not familiar with all the abreveations yet?
DOC/DPF?
Yes. The Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)/Diesel Particulate Filter ( DPF) is a physical piece of emissions equipment in the exhaust system under your truck. If you will look under your truck. It looks like this:


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Regen or regeneration is the process used to clean the DPF. It is controlled by the trucks computer. This process monitors pressure and temperature sensors in the DPF to literally burn the particulate matter out of it. You need a tuner to tell the trucks computer it doesn't need all the sensors in the exhaust anymore. If you were to unplug a sensor on an untuned truck, it wouldn't start. You can run a Spartan, H&S, or SCT to accomplish this.
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Vinford
The guy I was talking to today said they cut out the regen piece in his exhaust and put in a tuner.
Is this the same as you are talking about?
Im not familiar with all the abreveations yet?
DOC/DPF?
Once you have a tuner with emissions delete tunes, the truck will ignore the sensors on the exhaust.
Once you have the tune running, you could literally do whatever you want to the exhaust system, and the truck wont care. You could even hack out the DPF and DOC, and put them back on, so it looks 100% stock, yet the exhaust just flows through.
Or you can buy pipes that are the same lengths, but just open pipe.
Or you can get a complete new exhaust system.
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by UGA33
The 6.4s have been known to not have the tightest piston rings. If you have ever noticed, they have more blow-by than say a 6.0 or 7.3. The fuel in the oil situation comes from the regeneration process when fuel is injected in the exhaust stroke. Most of this fuel is sent down the exhaust to create a fireball to clean the DPF out. Some seaps by the rings and ends up in the crankcase. All brands with DPFs will have a little fuel dilution. The 6.4s on average seem to have the most.
Ahhhhhhh..... Gotcha! Fascinating! I really didnt know that part, and that makes sense as for the added fuel consumption, and dillution! I know whats first on my list!

Great info! Thank you!
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #82  
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6.4 top ring is a keystone ring. Fits loose on purpose. Because of the high boost motor and the extra heat...they made it loose. Then when you are working the motor hard you get that seal.

I have towed heavy coast to coast with DPF on and had .<5% fuel dilution. Running 12-14 hour days of hard work and good seal.
 
Old Nov 11, 2013 | 12:23 AM
  #83  
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[QUOTE=MisterCMK;13696576]You can leave it in my driveway. Leave the keys though.

another FTE members willing to lend a hand....lol !


I wouldn't get too scared about all the horror stories just yet. If you are really worried about the Regen and the emissions control, You should consider investing in deleting it.

Once you delete it and get a tune on it your mileage and fuel consumption should improve. There are horror stories out there about the 6.4's and the issues, but there are stories here about how good the 6.4 has been for people as well that haven't encountered all the issues. My neighbor down the way buys & sells trucks and he has had 6.0's and 6.4's that were running the pits due to the emission and DPF etc that were causing issues.

In all these trucks he fixed what needed to be fixed deleted the garbage out of em (his words) got them running and tuned and turned around and sold them (with the exception of some that he drives for a while till he find another he likes then sells the one he was driving) and makes a good buck off them.

So don't let it scare, take it more as a lesson on what to watch out for. There is no sense for you to have an expensive lawn ornament sitting in the yard. One of the best thing you can do for a 6.4 engine is to use it for it's intended purpose, you'd be worse off if you were only using it to run to the corner store or stuff like that, but you said you do some hauling with it and what not so you should be fine, hell you got it to use it so I would haul away.

It can be scary hearing all the horror stories that are out there, but you have to remember the 6.0's had the horror stories with them as well, and there are people who are still driving them and buying them. It goes this way with the 6.4's as well.

Heck even the 6.7's have their issues and horror stories but for as many that hate em there are just as many that swear they are the best thing since sliced bread.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #84  
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this forum just gave me a head ache reading all 6 pages... all I'm going to stay is

1. to the origianl poster, you should've done more research before investing in a 6.4
2. listen to what everybody is saying, get the truck scanned or do SOMETHING to figure out why your only getting 5mpg.
3. easy way for extra milage, and IMO cheap insurance on your motor is to get a tuner and do a DPF delete... race pipe only cost $150 ish + what ever tuner you buy... most likely going to be around 1500.. BUT it's WORTH IT, especially for milage,(i got 21mpg with 35's and stock lift, now i get 14-16mpg with a 3 in" lift and 37's) and if you do get a tuner and delete pipe for your DPF, keep in mind that you want to either be on a 'Tow Tune" or 'Stock Tune" while TOWING your equipment.
4. people are here to help, your neglect to research before you bought a 6.4 is nobody's fault except your own. The trucks are awsome, but as with any vehicle they have there ups and downs. Lucky for us most of the downs can be altered or fixed to help have a long lasting truck
5. Stay on the Severe duty maint. schedule. it's the best thing you can do for your truck.
 
Old Nov 20, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by senix
I have towed heavy coast to coast with DPF on and had .<5% fuel dilution. Running 12-14 hour days of hard work and good seal.
You mean mean to tell me you went ahead and actually used the truck for what it was designed to do? And it worked like it should?
 
Old Nov 20, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by parkland
You mean mean to tell me you went ahead and actually used the truck for what it was designed to do? And it worked like it should?
Yeah what was I thinking
 
Old Nov 22, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #87  
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Todays fill up...... It took 126.5 liters to go 515 kms.
$175 bucks worth

Can I have some help converting please?
 
Old Nov 22, 2013 | 11:13 PM
  #88  
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33.4178 gallons to go 320 miles which is 9.57573 miles per gallon
 
Old Nov 23, 2013 | 12:23 AM
  #89  
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Sounds about right for the truck...
 
Old Nov 23, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Vinford
Todays fill up...... It took 126.5 liters to go 515 kms.
$175 bucks worth

Can I have some help converting please?
What brand fuel you running? Mine does a bit better than that, providing it's not regening of course, running Shell super diesel. Run the best fuel you can buy, it will pay dividends by not regening as much (if your deleted, even better) and give you the biggest bang for the buck = better fuel economy.

But then again, it's a 8000 pound truck, one can't expect Toyota Corolla mileage...lol...
 



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