Good or bad?
#62
BAsically the end of it is its the last truck you'd want to buy if fuel mileage is a concern.....Only free thing you can do is slow down on the hwy, keep the rpms down, those 4.88s are killing your mpg. Youve got a sweet "POS" truck that is meant to work, but even for what you tow/haul Im thinking you could go down a notch, ie. 4.33/4.10s or the like.
Then delete the emissions crap, you're in B.C so no worries. I live and work in the same **** you do so I know the terrain, mpg's wont come easy and with a bit of prior to purchasing homework you'd have learned the 6.4 is about the worst modern diesel truck when it comes to mpg.
So, essentially and IMO... The combo of it being a 6.4 + All stock, meaning DPF, EGR crap in place + 4.88s + Speed/rpms is gonna net you awful MPG's.
Good luck sir!
Then delete the emissions crap, you're in B.C so no worries. I live and work in the same **** you do so I know the terrain, mpg's wont come easy and with a bit of prior to purchasing homework you'd have learned the 6.4 is about the worst modern diesel truck when it comes to mpg.
So, essentially and IMO... The combo of it being a 6.4 + All stock, meaning DPF, EGR crap in place + 4.88s + Speed/rpms is gonna net you awful MPG's.
Good luck sir!
Ive been using a 99 dually and I just naturally figured a newer truck with all the emissions etc would be better.
I don't even usually worry about fuel (lots in the ground ) but when I cant hardly make it to work and back on a tank its a concern.
Im Ford all the way that's why I bought without researching , I thought I was buying something I could depend on.
This new truck has been in the garage 5 days of the 10 Ive owned it.
Im going to look into rearends maybe that will help.
#63
I hear what you're saying. In all honesty these are great trucks, comfortable and powerful but they do come with their baggage for sure. You have a tow monster with that truck man. It will cost a bit to get it more reliable and to get a few more mpg's out of it.
It makes a huge difference from running say 70mph vs 60mph, just using those figures as examples....just to drop those rpms down. When I drive highway I try to keep below 2000rpm, any lower the better. I have 3.73's though so Im around 110km/h to 120km/h I think (cant remember exactly, dont pay attention anymore). So id say you'd be a fair bit slower.
As for me, I had a good idea what I was in for when I bought truck, I enjoy wrenching. So the first thing I did was delete the dpf/doc system and a spartan. That helped right off the bat in all aspects of the truck, night and day.
I then did an aFe filter cai setup and a full egr delete with elbow.
Id say those are priority numero uno! Then I did the smaller things like cac pipe, cat-back, downpipe etc... Lift,tires, exterior crap....All the work done my myself!
So I was aware of most the truck/6.4s shortcommings and worked on them proactively...Next is rad!!
It makes a huge difference from running say 70mph vs 60mph, just using those figures as examples....just to drop those rpms down. When I drive highway I try to keep below 2000rpm, any lower the better. I have 3.73's though so Im around 110km/h to 120km/h I think (cant remember exactly, dont pay attention anymore). So id say you'd be a fair bit slower.
As for me, I had a good idea what I was in for when I bought truck, I enjoy wrenching. So the first thing I did was delete the dpf/doc system and a spartan. That helped right off the bat in all aspects of the truck, night and day.
I then did an aFe filter cai setup and a full egr delete with elbow.
Id say those are priority numero uno! Then I did the smaller things like cac pipe, cat-back, downpipe etc... Lift,tires, exterior crap....All the work done my myself!
So I was aware of most the truck/6.4s shortcommings and worked on them proactively...Next is rad!!
#64
I hear what you're saying. In all honesty these are great trucks, comfortable and powerful but they do come with their baggage for sure. You have a tow monster with that truck man. It will cost a bit to get it more reliable and to get a few more mpg's out of it.
It makes a huge difference from running say 70mph vs 60mph, just using those figures as examples....just to drop those rpms down. When I drive highway I try to keep below 2000rpm, any lower the better. I have 3.73's though so Im around 110km/h to 120km/h I think (cant remember exactly, dont pay attention anymore). So id say you'd be a fair bit slower.
As for me, I had a good idea what I was in for when I bought truck, I enjoy wrenching. So the first thing I did was delete the dpf/doc system and a spartan. That helped right off the bat in all aspects of the truck, night and day.
I then did an aFe filter cai setup and a full egr delete with elbow.
Id say those are priority numero uno! Then I did the smaller things like cac pipe, cat-back, downpipe etc... Lift,tires, exterior crap....All the work done my myself!
So I was aware of most the truck/6.4s shortcommings and worked on them proactively...Next is rad!!
It makes a huge difference from running say 70mph vs 60mph, just using those figures as examples....just to drop those rpms down. When I drive highway I try to keep below 2000rpm, any lower the better. I have 3.73's though so Im around 110km/h to 120km/h I think (cant remember exactly, dont pay attention anymore). So id say you'd be a fair bit slower.
As for me, I had a good idea what I was in for when I bought truck, I enjoy wrenching. So the first thing I did was delete the dpf/doc system and a spartan. That helped right off the bat in all aspects of the truck, night and day.
I then did an aFe filter cai setup and a full egr delete with elbow.
Id say those are priority numero uno! Then I did the smaller things like cac pipe, cat-back, downpipe etc... Lift,tires, exterior crap....All the work done my myself!
So I was aware of most the truck/6.4s shortcommings and worked on them proactively...Next is rad!!
I guess driving slower is part of the answer but that's real hard to do , Im working west of WL and its a long boring drive.
You ever drive from FSJ to Pink Mt. and only go 55kmp's , same diff its hard to do.
All the stuff you have done to your truck would cost thousands if done at a shop.
I didn't really plan on spending thousands on a newer truck , that's why I bought it was to upgrade and save some money hopefully.
I thought there were laws about mileage and emissions so I took it all for granted.
Everyones acting like its all my fault but I havnt seen anyone else jumping in and saying they only get 5 mpg and Im sure I don't own the only 6.4 F-450 in North Americia so how the hell would I know they were that big of a pig?
#65
The drive from FSJ north is painful enough @ 110/120 km/h !!
Look in the classifiends for a spartan/sct/HS and a delete pipe, on this forum, the ORG and the Army..you'll find something. And just try dropping your speed down for a few trips, it'll suck big time but just try and see how much of a diff it makes!
I get pretty craptastic mileage in town myself, id guess around 10mpg...probably lower..
Look in the classifiends for a spartan/sct/HS and a delete pipe, on this forum, the ORG and the Army..you'll find something. And just try dropping your speed down for a few trips, it'll suck big time but just try and see how much of a diff it makes!
I get pretty craptastic mileage in town myself, id guess around 10mpg...probably lower..
#66
Sure, 7.3 fords, 6.5 chevy's, and 5.9 dodge cummins trucks all did better in the MPG department, but let's be real for a second; a ford ecoboost probably has a better tow rating than some of those trucks did in their day.
FYI A guy I talked to one time had a chev 4500, it had a duramax, but not the same one they put in a pickup, it was inline 6 and 300 HP or something, and got about 12 MPG driving 100 km/h.
I hear the dodges do better, maybe in the 16-18 MPG, but they are not running such high RPM's.
I bet if you keep your speed down to around 100 km/h, you'll see some better mileage.
The problem is just that you got a truck with such excessive gear ratios, it's meant more for towing than ripping down the highway at 120 km/h.
#67
I guess driving slower is part of the answer but that's real hard to do , Im working west of WL and its a long boring drive.
You ever drive from FSJ to Pink Mt. and only go 55kmp's , same diff its hard to do.
All the stuff you have done to your truck would cost thousands if done at a shop.
I didn't really plan on spending thousands on a newer truck , that's why I bought it was to upgrade and save some money hopefully.
I thought there were laws about mileage and emissions so I took it all for granted.
Everyones acting like its all my fault but I havnt seen anyone else jumping in and saying they only get 5 mpg and Im sure I don't own the only 6.4 F-450 in North Americia so how the hell would I know they were that big of a pig?
You ever drive from FSJ to Pink Mt. and only go 55kmp's , same diff its hard to do.
All the stuff you have done to your truck would cost thousands if done at a shop.
I didn't really plan on spending thousands on a newer truck , that's why I bought it was to upgrade and save some money hopefully.
I thought there were laws about mileage and emissions so I took it all for granted.
Everyones acting like its all my fault but I havnt seen anyone else jumping in and saying they only get 5 mpg and Im sure I don't own the only 6.4 F-450 in North Americia so how the hell would I know they were that big of a pig?
Here is a pic of how mine sits now. 265 tires small lift. I tow numerous trailers with it and no issues with the taller gears... And yes that is a 7.3 Excursion in front of it
Last edited by a4t1rat; 11-06-2013 at 10:07 AM. Reason: more info
#70
So I met a guy today with a 08 F-350, he said they took out the regen pipe and straight piped it through.
Then he put in a chip/tuner.
He claims to get decent mileage.
It cost him around $1200 does that sound right and is that a good place to start on this truck of mine?
a4t1rat I just bought 6 studded tires and at the price of them Ill have to use them for the winter.
Ill try your idea in the spring when I buy summer tires.
Then he put in a chip/tuner.
He claims to get decent mileage.
It cost him around $1200 does that sound right and is that a good place to start on this truck of mine?
a4t1rat I just bought 6 studded tires and at the price of them Ill have to use them for the winter.
Ill try your idea in the spring when I buy summer tires.
#71
[QUOTE=Vinford;13723508]So I met a guy today with a 08 F-350, he said they took out the regen pipe and straight piped it through.
Then he put in a chip/tuner.
He claims to get decent mileage.
It cost him around $1200 does that sound right and is that a good place to start on this truck of mine?
a4t1rat I just bought 6 studded tires and at the price of them Ill have to use them for the winter.
Ill try your idea in the spring when I buy summer tires.[/QUOTE
Sounds close but look around online and you might find a better deal. On the tires you can also go 22.5 semi wheels and tires you will need wheel adapters also but they will be around 37" tall and put your gearing to a very normal ratio say a effective ratio of about 3:80 + - just another option out there
Then he put in a chip/tuner.
He claims to get decent mileage.
It cost him around $1200 does that sound right and is that a good place to start on this truck of mine?
a4t1rat I just bought 6 studded tires and at the price of them Ill have to use them for the winter.
Ill try your idea in the spring when I buy summer tires.[/QUOTE
Sounds close but look around online and you might find a better deal. On the tires you can also go 22.5 semi wheels and tires you will need wheel adapters also but they will be around 37" tall and put your gearing to a very normal ratio say a effective ratio of about 3:80 + - just another option out there
#73
You mean delete the regen pipe?
Whats the proper name for it?
#75
You want to delete the DOC/DPF. To accomplish this you can take two routes. You can run just a DOC/DPF delete pipe. This will delete the two, but bolt up to the stock down pipe and stock tailpipe. The other option is to do a full exhaust in either 4" or 5". Both options require the use of aftermarket tuners to tell the computer the sensors aren't in the exhaust anymore and to shut off the regeneration process. By doing this, the truck won't regen anymore, get better fuel mileage, not dilute the oil with diesel fuel, and run overall cooler. It's the best thing you can do to this truck.