Key switch
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Key switch
Ive done a search and cant find the answer to this problem. 1991 F350 SRW that I have tried to replace the switch but now the safety lever wont allow the key to turn back to the off position to remove the key. There is also no return action to the key switch from the start position to the run position.
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ok so you replaced the electrical part on top of the colum? the return aclion is caused by the spring in there. mabey you dont have the rod comming from the mechanical part correctly installed in the electrical part?
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No electrical part there except the key warning switch. I thought there should be a spring but none that I see. There is rod that runs down the steering column that is an integral part of the system but I dont know how to access it. I think that may be where the problem lies but Im not sure. Do you have more info?
i ain't rite
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
what is the problem with the truck, no start, or will not shut off??
the lack of spring action to return the key from start position is hinting to me the ignition actuator int he top of the column is broken
the lack of spring action to return the key from start position is hinting to me the ignition actuator int he top of the column is broken
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Tom
Thanks for the reply. The truck would start, (not now however) but the keyswitch had to be held in the start position just right to remain running and could be relaxed to the normal run position but just a slight tap or jarring action and the switch would return to a position in which the engine would stop. Not even a measurable amount of movement. I replaced the old switch but in the process the spring action went away on me and I dont know what I did to do that. There is a rod that runs the length or mush of it of the steering column under the dash that is connected in some way and I think this is part of the problem/solution but it is almost completely inaccessible.
Thanks for the reply. The truck would start, (not now however) but the keyswitch had to be held in the start position just right to remain running and could be relaxed to the normal run position but just a slight tap or jarring action and the switch would return to a position in which the engine would stop. Not even a measurable amount of movement. I replaced the old switch but in the process the spring action went away on me and I dont know what I did to do that. There is a rod that runs the length or mush of it of the steering column under the dash that is connected in some way and I think this is part of the problem/solution but it is almost completely inaccessible.
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remove panel under colum remove the 2 bolts holding the steering colum up and the colum will drop down then you will seethat the rod runs to the ignition switch. take off the 7/16 bolt holding the switch and un plug it. reverse procedure to install it. make sure you put the rod in the switch the same way you took it out.
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It's easier to tell what is going on if you keep the terminology straight. The thing you put your key into is NOT the ignition switch, that is called the LOCK CYLINDER. The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column near the firewall and is held down by 2 nuts.
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you may have figured it out by now, but in case you haven't ... it sounds like you positioned your switch wrong when you swapped it out. there is considerable adjustment available with those oval mounting holes. position it just right and you should have your spring tension back as well as correct start/run/off/accessory positioning. make sure that the long steel rod is responding (moving up and down the column) as you turn the key, if not, then the pot metal actuator rod, up inside the top of the column, may be broken.
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Thanks for the help joey2fords....if I recall correctly the spring action is supposed to still be there even after the LOCK CYLINDER is removed. I confirmed this earlier by applying pressure to the GIZMO that runs the length of the steering column. I shouldnt speak in terms of absolutes regarding the recollection of the spring pressure though because my memory isnt what it used to be. I havent any access to a reliable diagram of the system that I am attempting to repair, the repair manual (Chilton's I think) is pretty weak in this area.
i ain't rite
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
ok, now this makes more sense. it sounds like you need a new ignition switch. it is on top of the steering column, in the area above the brake pedal. that small rod that runs along the top of the column goes from the ignition actuator to the ignition switch.
chock the wheels. remove the lower dash panel, remove the shift indicator if automatic trans, and loosen the steering column mount bolts. lay the column down on the seat.
now you can look along the top of the column and you will see the switch. unplug it, and remove the 2 7/16 head bolts holding the switch on the column.
i bet the switch comes out in two pieces.
the switches sometimes separate where the plastic housing meets the aluminum case.
a new switch is under $15 from NAPA. i have replaced at least 50 of them over the years because of this.
once the new switch is installed, you can adjust it before remounting the column by loosening the bolts and slightly moving the switch to get all functions working properly. there is about 1 inch of adjustment on the switch.
chock the wheels. remove the lower dash panel, remove the shift indicator if automatic trans, and loosen the steering column mount bolts. lay the column down on the seat.
now you can look along the top of the column and you will see the switch. unplug it, and remove the 2 7/16 head bolts holding the switch on the column.
i bet the switch comes out in two pieces.
the switches sometimes separate where the plastic housing meets the aluminum case.
a new switch is under $15 from NAPA. i have replaced at least 50 of them over the years because of this.
once the new switch is installed, you can adjust it before remounting the column by loosening the bolts and slightly moving the switch to get all functions working properly. there is about 1 inch of adjustment on the switch.
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Key switch
OK guys first of all I want to thank you all for your helpful replies....I got the job done. After monkeying around with the lock cylinder (which I had to replace because I broke it) I dropped the steering column and checked out the switch. It had somehow become separated, that is, the top part was separated from the bottom. I fixed that but what I found was that the switch itself had moved down the column itself, so I loosed the nuts and moved it up towards the steering wheel. This fixed the switch problem. Problem solved. Truck is back on the road. Thanks again for all the help with technical and terminology.
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