another shot of the AC belt tensioner base. You can see why I had to move outward the bracket. If it moved to the right 1/4" it'd directly conflict with the port on the rack. Not a lot of clearance, but sufficient.

 

hoses routed to / from hydro boost unit.

 

Another picture of the tensioner

 

I haven't commented on your build yet and that's just because I did not want to clutter this beautifully illustrated how to thread, with a bunch of amateurish comments. That said at this point I would like to compliment you on, not only on the great thread, but also the beautifully done work you have done on the build itself. This is not only a thread for the cream of the crop builders that we have on this site, but also is a great learning, and inspirational thread for the amature builders such as myself. Thank you for taking the time to document and explain, in detail what, and why you have done things. Nice work, its going to be a great truck.

 

Thank you much for replying. I kind of wondered if folks were interested in the project.
Probably for that reason I mostly stopped adding updates.
So... Your comments are appreciated and inspiring.
Thank you.

Doug

 

Here's a shot of the low mounted AC compressor.

Doug

 

And of the insulation in place. If I have to remove the tunnel cover one day I will just cut around the perimeter and unbolt.

I will make the carpet in pieces so they are remove able at the tunnel cover.

Doug

 

One of my next projects will be to extend this speaker cover to cover the radio holes while keeping it stock looking.

Doug

 

I ordered my new coil overs from Viking. They are american made and double adjustables with a longer warranty than ride-tech or Strange or AFCO.

In a few weeks, I'll start on the rear 4 link conversion.

In advance of ordering the coil overs, so we can establish spring rates, I had the truck weighed: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...yesterday.html

Doug

 

Hey Doug,
I'm looking forward to seeing your 4 link conversion. That's one I've been
thinking about. What's your motivation for doing that one?

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Ben,
The present rear ride quality is terrible with my lowered leaf springs. The geometry locks up the spring and the shocks are canted so bad they have zero leverage in controlling the rear axle.
I will also add rear discs.

I downloaded a four link design tool. I am surprised at how much small changes in the four link positioning change the handling dynamics.

Thanks for your interest!
Douh

 

Hey Doug,
Take notes for us and lot's of pics. We've got an Explorer 8.8 with leaf springs in the back - I think something smoother would be nice. I wonder if a 4 link would improve the ride... Hmmmm...

Following your progress over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

I think the biggest issue with SD's rear suspension is he used monoleafs. I'm really surprised a company with as good a rep as Posey's keeps selling those things. GM tried monoleafs back in the 60s and soon stop using them. Even a cursory research on spring characteristics would prove they are a bad idea. Multi leaf springs work progressively even tho the leafs are not tapered, and the short lengths reduce the tendency for axle wrap. Chrysler also had a problem with axle wrap with their leafs because they used an extra long spring to soften the ride. Mopar racers soon developed slapper bars and pinion snubbers to control them.

Do use PH's triangulated 4 link rather than the parallel bar 4 link or I believe you'll soon be tearing that back out as well.

 

I bought welder series' triangulated 4 link. I will do it a bit differently than their normal install due to the narrow frame rails. The top bars will be mounted wide on the axle and narrower on a new crossmember. With the offset 9" pumpkin, there just isn't a good place to mount the narrow brackets in the middle of the axle, un-like the 8.8" with the mounting ears from the explorer.

I like this guy's setup, but just don't think it will work that well given my driveshaft and exhaust routing.

4-link suspension (Satchel Link) Lots of pics!!! - S10 Racer Forums

I will do my best to lower roll center and optimize rear axle steer (for safe / user friendly manners), keeping anti-squat around 80% and minimizing pinion angle change with axle deflection. As you can imagine, many of these items are at odds with one another. Without a design tool, I'm convinced there is almost no way to getting the locating points right (unless you are used to winning the lottery).

Given my upper triangulated arrangement, I can't get roll center much below 24". But, that is pretty close to the rear center of gravity. I think it will be OK. I'm using the same 4-bar design tool (which is excel based and free on the internet for download).

Doug

PS - my issues pertain to the mono leaf, but also the mounting geometry. The mono-spring is too short, so the shackle wants to bind as the spring would compress. Not only that, but the axle wraps really bad when I step on the gas, especially in lower gears.

The way they are installed, they naturally bind. I almost had custom leaf springs built, but the spring company wanted $750. I can do coil overs and the triangulated kit for about the same with double adjustable shocks. More work, but the end result will be VERY tune-able and I'm pretty sure better overall in terms of ride quality and even optimizing handling.

 

Thanks again for interest in my build thread!