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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

late model electronically controlled drivetrain install

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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 06:50 AM
  #46  
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I don't know about being too low. They are close to the tire. You would have to have the top of the tire sticking up out of the top of the bed to get the bottom of the tire higher than the bottom of the pipe. If it were near the middle of the truck I would be worried. It looks like they drop down at the point where they go out.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ohbrian
Those exhaust pipes look REALLY low.
They aren't much lower (if any) than the lowest portion of the 9" center section.

Am I the first to run something out the side below the running board? Suspect not.

Doug
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #48  
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Nice looking truck...

Wish I could have one of those engine and trans in my f1... The hater's could hate me all they want. LOL....

Your doing great work... Coating the pipes one you finish would keep them looking as good as they are now, but add the finishing touch to them. and will also help keeping the heat away from the other components.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Moe Craig
Nice looking truck...

Wish I could have one of those engine and trans in my f1... The hater's could hate me all they want. LOL....

Your doing great work... Coating the pipes one you finish would keep them looking as good as they are now, but add the finishing touch to them. and will also help keeping the heat away from the other components.
Hi Moe,
Thank you kindly. I would have done a Coyote motor if I could justify the $ difference.
We'll see if I can wrangle another $450 to $550 from my piggybank for the exhaust coating. Agree with you. I have a lot of hours in it already, so finishing it off properly makes sense. And keeping the heat in will be a great benefit!

I bought some AL tubing (including 180 degree bends) to make some heat shields, but with the ceramic coating, I think that wouldn't be necessary.

cheers,

Doug
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:15 AM
  #50  
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Good work

I think you're going to love the conversion. Before I started on my current project (49 F1) I placed a 4.6L mod engine from a '06 Mustang along with the 5R55S trans into my 49 Ford Convertible. I used the original wiring harness and had to sort through it to figure out what I needed and didn't and how to marry it to the 49 wiring harness. One big issue was figuring out how to bypass the antitheft system, and I had to cut and reweld the X-frame to make the trans tunnel a bit bigger--but now I have a solid motor that get me 22 MPG on the highway--and made the trip from Houston to Chicago then all of Rt 66 to California and back home without a problem.
A few pics:

 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:36 AM
  #51  
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Where is a pic of the 49 Vert? Would love to see her.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #52  
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Thanks for the info on your swap! Sounds like a nice one!

I plan to have the late 90s caravan bench seat upholstered along the lines of this.

Not sure if I'll make door panels or not.

Thank you,

Doug
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by DW SD
Thanks for the info on your swap! Sounds like a nice one!

I plan to have the late 90s caravan bench seat upholstered along the lines of this.

Not sure if I'll make door panels or not.

Thank you,

Doug
Doug,
Is that a picture of a Glide Engineering seat in the picture? It sure looks like one to me.

Philip
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by AZAV8
Doug,
Is that a picture of a Glide Engineering seat in the picture? It sure looks like one to me.

Philip
Hi Philip,
Good eye - having looked at Glide's website, I think you are right. I saw the photo when looking at examples for my truck seat and liked it.

The upholstering job and leather is what I like most. I will not have an armrest.

Doug
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 12:28 PM
  #55  
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Nice job on the truck! <p>As far as exhaust I am on the cheap side, I spray them with black enamel spray paint and it works great to keep them from getting rusty and looks decent too. Pipes dont get hot enough to even blister the paint.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by drptop70ss
Nice job on the truck! <p>As far as exhaust I am on the cheap side, I spray them with black enamel spray paint and it works great to keep them from getting rusty and looks decent too. Pipes dont get hot enough to even blister the paint.
Hey Dave,
Thanks for the info! Maybe I will rethink the ceramic coating. I did use VHT's Flame Proof rattle can product on a set of manifolds. It worked well when I followed the directions to cure the paint. I used my gas BBQ grill.

The aluminized steel should keep it nice (where I didn't weld).

Maybe I'll see if VHT sells a clear where I could just clean up the welds a bit and then use that product? We shall see.

My budget seems to be stretched, but I'm happy with how things are turning out.

Doug
 
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by drptop70ss
Nice job on the truck! As far as exhaust I am on the cheap side, I spray them with black enamel spray paint and it works great to keep them from getting rusty and looks decent too. Pipes dont get hot enough to even blister the paint.
That is my route as well. These things don't see salt, and that is what kills everything around here.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 09:17 AM
  #58  
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Pulled the engine and trans to finish fabrication in the engine bay.

Began working on the steering column supports. The double u joint will work to 70degrees of misalignment. I'm at 54.

I may remove the Ujoint at the steering rack and just do a straight coupler.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #59  
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Had to modify this threaded sleeve to fit the angle I need. Still need to cut the hole in the boxed frame for the sleeve.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 05:26 PM
  #60  
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got the other steering shaft support fitted up and tacked in. Had to drill an elliptical hole and modify the shape of its flange since I wasn't installing it square to the frame.
 
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