late model electronically controlled drivetrain install
After some unexplained issue with the transmission, I am up and running! WOW! **This thing hauls the mail**. I had an issue with the fuel pumps I installed, too. They were pumps from a late model mercedes benz, plumbed in series, wired in parallel. One pump stopped working and was causing a huge bog.
After taking the failing pump out of series, ALL GOOD! WOW!
Lots of little things to complete:
1. install the bench seat - need to fabricate mounts for it. Location is set.
2. install the passenger's seat belt.
3. finish the dash.
4. complete second exhaust mounts - the outlets are supported by zip ties and the friction of the band clamp flanges.
Strange was very good about accepting the yoke as a return.
Doug
In the end, I ended up fabricating new side pieces. Used some 1 1/2" round tubing as a mandrel to make the radius at the top of the sides.
Best part of the project is the learning process for me.
Doug
Also, used the original transmission shift selector lever. Lokar's heim joint mount bolt required me to counter-sink with a large drill bit the inside of the selector lever.
The shifter works great!
Doug
Dan
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Thanks a bunch! Sent the computer back to Ryan for reprogramming while I'm in vacation. Eager to fire it back up next week.
I now have a good vision for the interior. I will use tan square weave and a two tone leather in a horseshoe pattern on the bench seat.
Cheers,
Doug
Thanks a bunch! Sent the computer back to Ryan for reprogramming while I'm in vacation. Eager to fire it back up next week.
I now have a good vision for the interior. I will use tan square weave and a two tone leather in a horseshoe pattern on the bench seat.
Cheers,
Doug
I also had to work around an issue where power was being killed to the transmission control module (computer) prematurely because it was powered by the ignition relay. This was causing the transmission control module (TCM) to dump its memory, so each time I'd drive the truck, it'd go through a process to learn how to apply pressure to the clutches. This would cause a violent first 200' of driving.
Ultimately, I worked around that by having the main ECM (engine control computer) signal to a relay which turns off an on (provides power to) the transmission control unit.
This truck really moves. The rear suspension, which is a single leaf spring from Posie rides terribly and demonstrates BIG axle wrap when I give it some gas. I am now working to resolve this.
I also ordered a larger master cylinder (1 1/4" bore vs. 1 1/8"). I'd prefer a firmer brake pedal. (yes, the system is properly bled).
Appreciate the comments. We had a really memorable day in Del Mar! Kids got ice cream and we all had smiles. It is why I built the truck mostly, to enjoy with these guys.
I'm zeroed in now on re-working the rear suspension. I'm leaning towards Welder Series 4-link kit with coil overs and my own coil over mounts.
Doug
Installed a HydroBoost brake booster. Didn't like the braking feel with the high leverage (small diameter) master and very small diameter vacuum booster.
I went to a 1 1/4" diameter master cylinder (+45% swept area), slightly larger diameter calipers upfront and a new Hydro Boost unit. Took some fabrication to get the backing plate to line up with my bracket, but not a lot. I also had to cut the input shaft and use the adjustable threaded shaft from the pedal bell crank to the booster unit. In this case, I cut the end off of the booster input shaft, drilled out the threaded sleeve so it'd slip over the top of the booster input shaft and welded the sleeve in place.
Worked a treat. And it is adjustable. Now I have a very firm, but also short pedal throw (like a modern car) and I can easily lock up the brakes. And if I modulate properly, I'll slow down REAL quick. Having confidence in your brakes is pricele$$

Because of the under body master cylinder, the hydro boost required making my own power steering lines. These, I made from Eaton re-useable hose ends (-6), Aeroquip power steering bulk hose and adapters at the hydroboost and power steering pump and power steering rack.
Next, I installed my air conditioning compressor and built one new soft line (condenser to compressor high pressure side) and put a new end on my suction side (the old compressor was in the wrong place).
I also had to build a belt tensioner for the AC belt. The old one conflicted with the location of one of the pressure lines on the Mustang II steering rack. Some engine swappers use a different AC compressor bracketry. I used the factory, but shimmed the bracket outboard 1/4" with spacers at all of the mounting locations and then built the new tensioner and used a 1/2" longer belt.
Next, I've been insulating the cab. First with roll on heat, noise, deadener. These claim to have micro bubbles suspended in a latex paint. For what I can tell, it is very fine sand mixed in to latex primer. It does seem to work. I laid down four coats of that stuff and then applied "fat mat" a dynamat competitor.
Seems to help. The AC can keep up with ambient temps, now. Without insulation, the AC didn't seem to keep up.
I'm really happy with the way this truck drives. More to do, but the work I'm doing is improving it greatly.
About 2 months out, I'll do the rear 4 - link conversion. The rear ride quality with the leafs absolutely BLOWS.
Doug







