late model electronically controlled drivetrain install
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Yes, it was a race truck maybe a decade ago for a while. The PO had an alcohol burning straight six 300+ cubic inch in it. I was told it ran low 11s.
The left over are race - type fiberglass bucket seats, the huge mallory memory tach and a B&M slap shifter. the rear is mini-tubbed too and I could fit (easy) a 15" cross section rear tire. The 9" does have a posi-unit of some sort, so that's good, though I may install a Lincoln Mark VIII rear end as phase II.
Soon I will install: a retro-fied (reupholstered to look vintage) bench seat (mounting is one of the many fabrication projects left). A floor mounted trans shifter and my new vintage - style gauges have a tach and speedo combo for a simplified dash gauge arrangement.
Will snap a picture of the gauges. Since the original holes are smaller than the new ones, I had to (carefully) hog out both gauge holes - didn't want to destroy the dash paint. Took me an hour and a half with a 2" drum sander mounted on a die grinder. Haven't done the right hand gauge, yet. Kind of dreading that one hour of meticulous effort.
Cheers,
Doug
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I've continued making progress.
Removed the old transmission mount from the crossmember and fabricated a new one. This one allows a bit of fore aft adjustability.
I needed that. When I installed the engine, I couldn't have the intake manifold mounted as I used the valley cover bolts to suspend the engine and trans from the engine crane.
I wanted the engine and trans mounted as rearward as possible, while maintaining 1/2" clearance between the intake and firewall.
This also will require a bit of modification to the trans tunnel cover.
The list is getting shorter and longer at the same time
Doug
Removed the old transmission mount from the crossmember and fabricated a new one. This one allows a bit of fore aft adjustability.
I needed that. When I installed the engine, I couldn't have the intake manifold mounted as I used the valley cover bolts to suspend the engine and trans from the engine crane.
I wanted the engine and trans mounted as rearward as possible, while maintaining 1/2" clearance between the intake and firewall.
This also will require a bit of modification to the trans tunnel cover.
The list is getting shorter and longer at the same time
Doug
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I've also completed the fabrication on the shorty steering column - was too cheap to buy an ididit or flaming river. Basically, I sectioned the old column down to about 15". Used a billet aluminum roll bar clamp to (1 1/2") and beveled the mounting surface to hang from the lower dash.
I then added a rectangular steel strut with a large foot which welds to the column and bolts to the upper firewall to support the column. (sorry, no pictures of the strut until I remove it again.) It is very solid.
I'm also adding a u joint behind the shorty column and a new hole in the firewall as well as several support bearings. (more pics when complete)
You can also see the new gauges behind the steering wheel. Those are mostly wired up.
And, I've got the 1996 Dodge Caravan rear seat prepped and mocked up. I need to fabricate the mounts, but it is in the right spot.
I removed the mechanisms and controls used to quickly remove it from the vans. Will use some 2" x 3/16" angle iron the fabricate the mounts themselves.
I then added a rectangular steel strut with a large foot which welds to the column and bolts to the upper firewall to support the column. (sorry, no pictures of the strut until I remove it again.) It is very solid.
I'm also adding a u joint behind the shorty column and a new hole in the firewall as well as several support bearings. (more pics when complete)
You can also see the new gauges behind the steering wheel. Those are mostly wired up.
And, I've got the 1996 Dodge Caravan rear seat prepped and mocked up. I need to fabricate the mounts, but it is in the right spot.
I removed the mechanisms and controls used to quickly remove it from the vans. Will use some 2" x 3/16" angle iron the fabricate the mounts themselves.
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eventually, I'll reupholster the seat to something much more vintage looking. Thinking a combination of twill and leather in the camel to chocolate spectrum.
Haven't decided how to patch the unused holes drilled through the dash. I'm reluctant to have everything painted, but suspect that's where I'll end up. (paint is in pretty good condition, except the few holes. Thought about JB weld and having a guy I know airbrush / blend spot treat in those areas. That may be the short term solution.
Doug
Haven't decided how to patch the unused holes drilled through the dash. I'm reluctant to have everything painted, but suspect that's where I'll end up. (paint is in pretty good condition, except the few holes. Thought about JB weld and having a guy I know airbrush / blend spot treat in those areas. That may be the short term solution.
Doug
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! I will definitely use one of the shields between the exhaust and the brake booster and master.Some of the photos make things look closer than they really are.
Also, thank you for your interest!
Doug
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Yer doing great work with great photos.
This thread will be well used by others
with all the detail here. Keep it coming.
This thread will be well used by others
with all the detail here. Keep it coming.
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Next steps:
0. finish mock up on the steering linkage / shafts. I'm using 3/4" oak dowel to mockup the shafts. Once I'm happy, I'll cut the 3/4" DD shaft. Decided to use set screw install rather than welding. Was fearful of trying to keep the joints cool during welding.
0a. fabricate exhaust crossover
0b. fabricate mounts for bench seat
1. measure for the driveshaft,
2. complete wiring the add-on sensors for the gauges
3. remove the engine / trans
4. paint and prep the frame where I've fabricated / modified / welded.
5. finish weld the exhaust
6. tidy up the firewall.
7. sheet metal work around the pedals / old steering column through hole.
Doug
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Thank you! It is getting easier. Also, if you go one piece at a time, you can rotate the curved segments of pipe to fine tune fit.
I found it easiest to use blue painter's tape as a guide when cutting. If you cut the bends square, the cross section remains a circle. If you cut off of square, the shape becomes an ellipse.
I also bought a large belt sander, which is really useful in fine tuning and making sure the pieces are flat before fitting them together.
Cheers,
Doug
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Did a system wiring test today. Gauges seem to work when I flip the ignition switch. Get movement out of every needle - tested the fuel level sender by articulating the float - worked perfect. Lighting looks great, too!
Ran a large 10 gauge ground from the rear-mounted battery to a grounding stud near to the fuse box, to make sure the PCM and gauges have a good ground. And a large (4 ga) positive from the starter lug to feed the entire fuse / relay panel.
Most of wiring is now complete.
Will be focusing on final mockup of the steering column and then removing the engine and trans to cleanup the engine bay.
Will do final welding on the exhaust, motor mounts, etc. Then will paint the engine bay, frame, etc before stabbing the engine / trans back in.
Doug
Ran a large 10 gauge ground from the rear-mounted battery to a grounding stud near to the fuse box, to make sure the PCM and gauges have a good ground. And a large (4 ga) positive from the starter lug to feed the entire fuse / relay panel.
Most of wiring is now complete.
Will be focusing on final mockup of the steering column and then removing the engine and trans to cleanup the engine bay.
Will do final welding on the exhaust, motor mounts, etc. Then will paint the engine bay, frame, etc before stabbing the engine / trans back in.
Doug