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I'd replace that flywheel. I still think the cause is the cab mounts.
Why on the flywheel? Is there a thickness minimum spec we shouldn't go below?
I go back and forth with the cab mount being the cause. I shimmed some wood pieces into the cab mount area to make it rigid, and test drove it to see. The amplitude of the vibrations was less, but the chattering started as soon as the clutch started to drive the transmission at all....regardless of if it was at idle or tipping in the throttle. Now, on gravel if I tip in a little extra throttle and the tire spins, it doesn't chatter at all. I would think if it was the cab moving, then at idle and gentle application of the clutch would not move the cab enough to rattle it. But it rattles almost worse in that situation.
I'm sure there is a thickness spec, but the cracks are the reason I'd replace it. They don't go away. You can have it surfaced and it will look pretty but in another 5-10k miles, maybe less, they'll be back and can certainly contribute to the problem you are experiencing.
You have it this far apart, so do everything you can to ensure the clutch is right, but like I said earlier, I'd almost put money on the cab mounts.
Ok, at the risk of looking ignorant, (shaddap Montana) I really do fail to see how cab mounts can have any effect on clutch chatter.
The joints between the block, bellhousing and transmission are bolted, doweled, recess fit and all are connected to the frame independent of the body and cannot move independent of each other.
All the chatter is happening inside the bellhousing which has no relation to cab mounts.
What am I missing?
Are you sure that the P.O. actually had the flywheel surfaced?
Thickness limits are gauged by a small hole or dimple in the friction surface of the flywheel. When that dimple disappears, it has been ground down beyond the limits.
You can actually hand sand any glazing off of the pressure plate. Don't get carried away though.
Ok, at the risk of looking ignorant, (shaddap Montana) I really do fail to see how cab mounts can have any effect on clutch chatter.
The joints between the block, bellhousing and transmission are bolted, doweled, recess fit and all are connected to the frame independent of the body and cannot move independent of each other.
All the chatter is happening inside the bellhousing which has no relation to cab mounts.
What am I missing?
Ah but they can move independent of one another. The clutch pedal is mounted to the body. The equalizer is mounted to the frame and engine. The fork is mounted to the engine (bellhousing). So we have the body which can move in relation to the frame, which can move in relation to the engine. They can and do move independently of one another. When things are as they should be, this movement is insignificant. However, when the cab mounts are so rotten that they effectively offer no support or very little support, the cab can bounce. You may not perceive that but it will move. To be clear, for this explanation, the cab mount is the sheet metal component, not the rubber component. This movement changes the location of the clutch pedal relative to the equalizer and can apply or release the clutch ever so slightly. That sort of, oscillation, we'll call it, causes the chatter; the movement of the body relative to the frame causes the chatter... I know because I've been there.
Ah but they can move independent of one another. The clutch pedal is mounted to the body. The equalizer is mounted to the frame and engine. The fork is mounted to the engine (bellhousing). So we have the body which can move in relation to the frame, which can move in relation to the engine. They can and do move independently of one another. When things are as they should be, this movement is insignificant. However, when the cab mounts are so rotten that they effectively offer no support or very little support, the cab can bounce. You may not perceive that but it will move. To be clear, for this explanation, the cab mount is the sheet metal component, not the rubber component. This movement changes the location of the clutch pedal relative to the equalizer and can apply or release the clutch ever so slightly. That sort of, oscillation, we'll call it, causes the chatter; the movement of the body relative to the frame causes the chatter... I know because I've been there.
I will bet your chatter is coming from the pressure plate itself. It appears to be a "new" style, not the old Fomoco type. These new plates are notorious for poor tolerances and weak springs.
I recently went through this same deal on my '52 clutch. Replaced every part possible, then finally put an old (used) pressure plate in it and it works beautiful.
Pic of my "new" plate after only a few miles........note the hot spots on only one side. This tells me it was not releasing evenly. Yours looks kinda similar.
Also I drove my old '63 for years with the front cab mounts gone (had blocks of wood stuck under there) and never had any clutch problems....
Last edited by tinman52; Oct 28, 2013 at 06:56 PM.
Reason: spell
Pic of my "new" plate after only a few miles........note the hot spots on only one side. This tells me it was not releasing evenly. Yours looks kinda similar.
Not only do they look kinda similar, they look like the exact same brand!
Are you sure that the P.O. actually had the flywheel surfaced?
Thickness limits are gauged by a small hole or dimple in the friction surface of the flywheel. When that dimple disappears, it has been ground down beyond the limits.
You can actually hand sand any glazing off of the pressure plate. Don't get carried away though.
There seem to be some machining marks that are not rusted. He said he did....but perhaps.....well anything is possible. He may not have remembered it correctly either as I think it was a while back and it sat. I swear I didn't see the dimples but will look again.
I will bet your chatter is coming from the pressure plate itself. It appears to be a "new" style, not the old Fomoco type. These new plates are notorious for poor tolerances and weak springs.
I recently went through this same deal on my '52 clutch. Replaced every part possible, then finally put an old (used) pressure plate in it and it works beautiful.
Pic of my "new" plate after only a few miles........note the hot spots on only one side. This tells me it was not releasing evenly. Yours looks kinda similar.
Also I drove my old '63 for years with the front cab mounts gone (had blocks of wood stuck under there) and never had any clutch problems....
He put a Rynopac in it, as the old one is in the box. The pressure plate almost seems to be ever so slightly cupped. It can be seen with a straight edge. He said he never got smooth engagement after putting this clutch in. What kind would be a better choice if we cannot get this one to work? I wish we could resurface the pressure plate. I am assuming that would be tough to do.
Had flywheel resurfaced and it looks new now. Still plenty of dimple.
Big improvement. Still shakes a bit, but 10% of what it did before. Could be all the other loose stuff now. It may be a little grabby yet since I only took it down the lane and to the neighbors and back.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
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