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I recently finished installed a new banks kit, a moose junior pump and moose mister injectors and a new clutch.
The truck runs really nice.
My question is related to the timing.
I fiddled around with the timing, had it to far advanced and it rattled to much, had it to far retarded and it just did not sounds right at all. I finally settled somewhere in between. The truck runs very well and does not smoke too much, especially when the turbo spins up. I get the full amount of boost, I get it very quickly and my EGT's stay in check....even when loaded.
Even though the smoke is not too bad, there is more smoke than stock for sure. I attributed that to the bigger pump.
The truck rattles a little bit more than it did when the stock pump was in there, but it only does this on a cold startup....this tells me that I have the timing a little more advanced than the stock position.....is that correct?
I was initially thinking about taking the truck and having it timed by a pro with the right tools, but I just have a hard time believing that it is going to run any better than it does right now.
If I skip getting it timed by a shop, am I risking any damage to the motor? Could I have it too far advanced and not know it?
I pull a pretty heavy load in the mountains. I generally have a stock trailer loaded with mules and I do not want to be on the side of the road with them back there.
What do you guys think? Does it sound like I have it set up correctly?
Pretty obviously we cant tell you "oh ya sounds like youre right at 8*" Sounds to me like you would need to buy the pulse adapter or have someone time it for the peice of mind. Yes over-advancing can cause damage to the engine, short term eaten glow plugs, long term pre-mature piston and bearing wear.
I timed my by ear, then bought the adaptor, I had it set a 10, backed it off to 7 and gained some power and 2mpg
by backed it off, do you mean retarded the timing some....and does that mean rotating the pump towards the driver side of the truck? Just checking to make I get this stuff right.
where did your static timing marks end up, or is that not relevant after replacing the pump?
Rent the equipment from Gary (icanfixall on oilburners). $70 plus return shipping and he sends everything you need to do the job right plus provides his personal cell number so you can call if you have any questions.
Compared to the $$$ you spent on all the goodies, it's chump change, especially when you consider you're probably not getting all you could out of it because it may or may not be timed correctly.
ideally,you'll have no black smoke and a much more efficient engine and you'll have the timing set within 6-10 BTDC.anything short of this is less than ideal.
so i personally would back off the fuel screw or add more air (intercooler and or larger turbo with head studs) and invest in the timing tools.
as is almost always the case though,having things ideal cost money.
Push the pump to driver's side is retard, passeger side is advance, Static marks don't mean much,
The 300. bucks I spent on timing tools will pay for it's self with the 2 mpg gain in 5000 miles. I think it's worth it.
then when milage drops off, I have every thing to reset it. at no extra cost
Push the pump to driver's side is retard, passeger side is advance, Static marks don't mean much,
The 300. bucks I spent on timing tools will pay for it's self with the 2 mpg gain in 5000 miles. I think it's worth it.
then when milage drops off, I have every thing to reset it. at no extra cost
Thats the way i look at it. Not to mention if you find some one looking for a meter near you and you have one. I dont seen anything wrong with chargine 50 bucks to time it for em.
The banks instruction had a section for turning up the pump, but I never did any of that.
My thinking here was since I was putting in a more high performance pump, the moose junior, that there was already more fuel going in as a result.
Is that accurate?
As a side note, the pump and injector install was a breeze. Installing the banks kit was a PITA. The kit was all very high quality and fit well. The hardest part of the install for me was getting drain on the turbo installed and not leaking. I went through 3 gaskets. I found the the fuel pump gasket from a ford probe fit the turbo drain perfectly.
Also the ear of the zf5 transmission that they said to cut off, really did not need to be cut off at all. My exhaust is nowhere near that ear.
I am currently running a straight pipe, but most likely plan on putting the muffler in. I just made up a 45 bend and have the exhaust coming out right in front of the rear wheels. It really sounds awesome and there is a lot of whistle, but I think it might to loud for what the truck is used for....pulling animals.
Push the pump to driver's side is retard, passeger side is advance, Static marks don't mean much,
The 300. bucks I spent on timing tools will pay for it's self with the 2 mpg gain in 5000 miles. I think it's worth it.
then when milage drops off, I have every thing to reset it. at no extra cost
I'll third that. my tools paid for themself twice already in about 14 thousand kms. and when I change my pump and injectors I'm okay to do everything myself.
Depends on the whole setup... Best advice is to just tinker around with it until your satisfied.... No one number we say on here is going to be the best for your setup... Tune it and then find out what the number is later... Generally its a myth that more advanced timing gives you better MPG's... Whatever drives your turbo the best is going to get you the best MPG's, whether that's advanced or retarded timing...
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