Can someone with a sub box post the full dimensions of the enclosure. I plan on fabricating a box for a single Rockford P3 10 shallow. It needs only 0.574 cuft and I think it would fit on just the left side.

top depth: ?
bottom depth: ?
length: ?
vertical height (back): ?

I have run a lots of 10's over the years and can say that a modern shallow 10 can sound very good when in the proper enclosure. I will note that for the rockford products that the X-max or stroke is only half that of the regular P3. In theory you would need a pair of shallows to move the same amount of air (aka SPL).

 

This box looks pretty good at 0.7 cu.ft. per sub (beats the heck out of my 0.8 total). Not sure about the subs it comes with......

Ford F250 F350 Super Crew 04-12 Boss Audio Custom Dual 10" Phantom 2000W Sealed Subwoofer Box...

 

I'm very surprised they would mount in tool/storage under seats. I would think there would t be proper ventilation in there

 

The new JL amps need very little cooling. They are very nice for these applications.

Y'all are starting to peer pressure me into installing the Stealthbox in the 2011....

 

This.

I'm in PA, our hottest days maybe hit 90 once in a while. If I was back in AZ, I'd have cut out some holes and implemented some cpu fans to keep the air flowing.

I haven't had an issue with it so far though.

 

I too, have the JL stealthbox with the 13.5" pancake sub in it. I had it powered with a Rockford Fosgate 600watt x1 amp... and that thing would pound! I just traded in my 09' for a 13' and am debating if I want to lose the under seat storage. Mine is sitting in my garage.
Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Ford - SuperDuty - Ford SuperDuty Crew Cab '04-Up

 

Good luck with the debate. I am struggling with the same decision for 2 years...

I miss the base, but I am also wondering if I want a new headunit instead of doing a line out converter...

 

You could drop that JL sub into a SPL2K box and throw it behind the rear seat in the new truck. No storage lost.

A new headunit won't make those factory components sound much, if any, better. The LOC route works great if you're not displeased with the stock unit.

 

I used a 1.5" hole saw and made four holes in the front wall of the tool storage bins under the rear seat. I also got 2 12v computer fans and tapped into the power feed for the sub (ignition on/off circuit, not big power). I have two fans blowing air out from the bin to the cab, other two holes just allow fresh air to enter. Works great.

My sub boxes are wedges, 7.5" wide at base, 18" tall, 1.5" wide at top. I think they're about 20" wide. Driver side is a wedge shaped like an L though, same dimensions but notched for the power window motor.

It's easy to do. Build the boxes to fit and allow 3/8" gap between the seat and the speaker face. Luckily, the rear face of the seats is soft so when/if the woofer touches the seat back there's not any distortion and the material doesn't wear down.

Speakers fit at bottom of wedges. Get some posts at radio shack so you can have internal wiring, then just run you speaker cable to the side of the box.

If my cubic foot figures in my previous post are wrong (y'all can easily figure it out) I'm sorry. I'm going from memory three years ago. I know this, they sound great. All I have is a fosgate 500W amp driving the two, each speaker only gets 250W but my sunglasses dance all over the dash if I want them to.

 

Good to know thanks for sharing. So ur box is two separate boxes or just like the ones u can buy. Not sure but sounds like same dimensions. I also wondered about the speakers hitting the seat. If those jl 13w5 sound that good I might get but dam, not to cheap. If there worth it then so be it. I had 2 pioneer 10" in my F150 and were ok but nothing compared to good full size like w6 or comparable subs in bigger boxes.thanks again for info