As I've been exploring this forum I've been making a short list of maintenance items to get my truck running optimally. Mine is a 93 7.3L with almost 200k miles. I don't drive it hard or far, it is mostly my weekend wheels and I use it to haul off junk, or pick up mulch, or help friends move, etc. The truck seems to run pretty well in general other than being hard to start in cold weather. I am planning on keeping this truck for a very long time so I want to do all of the little things that help avoid a catastrophic failure. This is also my first diesel, so I am learning a lot of new things. So here is my maintenance list for the immediate future.

Oil and Filter (done twice, program rolling now)
Coolant Flush (done-ish, but the SCA's are in there now)
Batteries (done, and terminals cleaned)
Fuel Filter (is there another one other than under the hood with the drain?)
Air Filter
Glow Plugs
Glow Plug Relay
Chassis Lube
Tranny Flush (not a DIY thing for me)
4x4 Differential Fluid change

Anybody have any other suggestions for this list?

I figure that at 200k mi and not knowing the PO's maintenance record, now is a good time to set a baseline on all of these items.

I sure am glad that I found this place - it's a great resource!

Thanks for the help.

 

Grease front end, u-joints if greaseable. Only one fuel filter under hood. Injector return line kit. about 30 bucks off eBay. Manual control glow plugs if you want. Make sure you DO NOT replace glow plugs with auto lites. Both my trucks came with them and neither one had tips to swelled up but both had some burnt out. Motorcraft are the best but most expensive. Corroded battery cables.

 

That'll get old soon.


No.

What kind of tranny? If a C6, you should install a universal drain plug. Like this:
If you can, you might want to install pet***** in the engine plugs to make future drains easier. And if you already don't have one, put a flush Tee in as well into your heater core line. If your coolant temps are variable, you might want to replace your t-stat (make sure to go with a motorcraft brand.)

Use only motorcraft plugs.


Might want to consider installing a Coolant Filter head like a NAPA 4070.

Might want to do a fan clutch test too. Search the forum, i know there is a post about how to do this if you don't know.

How are your brake pads? Brake fluid flush and bleed too? Rotor condition? Vacuum line inspection? Dipole grease terminals? Check for corroded grounds? Belt replacement? Bearing and Ball joint grease? Tranny filter replacement?

 

The return lines are a good idea if yours are leaking, they're falling apart, or you're having starting issues (aside from cold starts, which are likely more of a glow plug issue), but I wouldn't necessarily do them just to do them.

Other than the items you've listed, the one item I cannot recommend enough is to check and adjust the timing. It's gotta be the single best thing I've done to the truck from a performance standpoint (with the thermostat coming in a close second). The truck runs WAY stronger, gets better MPG, and runs lower EGTs.

Mike

 

Am I missing something here, or am I the only one who thinks Ip and injectors are a "maintenance item" at 200k miles? I haven't seen mention unless I overlooked it. Even a trans fluid flush on an e40d isn't very hard. If that is the tranny you have let us know and someone will look up the how to for you. You are on the right track. My 93 was my first diesel and I did everything myself, including an engine swap, and she is running great some four years later.

Good luck,

Mac.

 

Get a turbo.

OK, perhaps it's not a maintance item, but yeah, it's seriously nice.
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Anyway, I, personally would recommend DieselRX brand glow plugs. They're a different design than the normal ones, and are designed with a 'limiter' coil in them - they get hot faster, but don't overheat. They also don't seem to swell when you destroy them like the cheapies.
I've used plenty of ether on mine, too, with few losses over the last couple of years.

 

I know its a bit of heathenism around here, but I see nothing wrong with DieselRx, I've had em for quite some time and I haven't had any problems

 

I bought a 1994 F350 IDI-T duelly to tow my Airstream. On one camping trip the brakes failed at a stop light, the Airstream pushing me thru the intersection. Needless to say, I had to clean the crap out of my pants. The rear brake line up close to the bed above the wheel well rusted thru. I bought a Penn. truck where they do use salt. If I were you, I'd check the brake lines. When I first bought the truck, my mechanic suggested I replace the front brake lines, but not the rear one. I should have replaced them all !!!

 

I just replaced the front leaf spring bushings in mine (about $60) and it will surprise you the difference it makes.

But that can be done later, for now I HIGHLY recommend checking all your suspension/driveline bolts. I just went thro mine and was sick when I found so many were just flopping around. Especially the 8 that are in the 2 brackets (4 bolts ea.) that the 2 halves of the front axel housing pivot from.. Be sure and jack it up before hand, allowing the springs and mounts to relax and therefore draw up nice and firm (use good jack stand supports, lot of weight).

Good luck and enjoy, you've got lots of weekend projects listed here haha

 

I did the glow plugs and relay a couple of weekends ago. I think the relay must have been shot, because for the first time ever, the 'wait to start' light came on. The truck started up a lot faster too. So I think that my crazy 15 min winter starting procedure should not be necessary, but we will see in a few months.

The old plugs were Autolite, but luckily none were stuck. I used Motorcraft plugs. The job was pretty straight forward with only a few hitches. I tore an already frayed fuel return line, so I went ahead and replaced it and I am planning to replace all of the return lines this weekend.

The existing glow pug on the #3 cylinder was less than halfway screwed in. It is right under a bracket that holds 4 pressurized fuel lines, so I suppose the previous owner just got lazy with it. I was able to get the new plug about 2/3 of the way threaded in by backing it in and out and using antiseize. I am going to try using a wire brush to clean the head threads when I do those fuel return lines. Anybody have any other tricks to try to get it fully seated?

 

I do have the e40d, and I would love to be able to do my own fluid swap if it isn't too crazy. I have never cracked open an automatic transmission, so I am a little wary of doing it.

 

Hi,

I have an 89 7.3 auto with OD and I am looking to change the transmission fluid. I was told that this thing holds 14 qts and apparently on mine there is no drain plug and you have to remove the entire pan to get to the filter and get the fluid out. I was also told that it would be best to NOT get a flush, but a drain/change instead. From what I recall I have the E40D transmission.

This is a second vehicle and I'm still new to dealing with this large of a truck. I have changed out the fluid on my old 93 Jeep Cherokee which is pretty basic. How difficult is this job on this truck.

I have asked some shops and they say that they will NOT do a drain/change but they will be happy to do a full flush. I have just heard bad things about full transmission flushes.

Thanks for the help y'all!

 

I think I found the answer to my question here on the Forum... but in case someone else comes across this thread, here is the procedure for changing the transmission fluid without a FLUSH.

Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission | Ford Trucks