Doing some work...
I'm planning on replacing the hpop seals, adding a coolant filter kit, changing the gp module and a air filter kit. This is my first diesel so I appreciate any advice. I'm buying from riffraff if that makes a difference
the other day my truck started to run a little rough and I noticed the oil pressure had dropped. It went back up and after it sat awhile, I checked the oil and the level was fine
Check and replace as needed: valve cover gaskets/under vc wire harness, and engine side valve cover plugs/pigtails.
Might as well re-seal/re-build the fuel bowl while you're there.
Coolant filter is a waste of time and money. Also, one more thing in the way when you need to work on it. Especially if you put in an S&B Cold Air Intake/Filter, which is what I would recommend. I prefer the oiled/cleanable filter.
For the glow plug module, get the upgraded oversize one from Diesel O-Rings. Its much bigger and and more robust. ( Don't worry. Follow the instructions and it will fit.)
Monster White-Rodgers Glow Plug Relay
For glow plugs, use ONLY oem Motorcraft replacements. A number of aftermarket brands are known to have the tips swell up, and then they get stuck and break off in the head next time you need to remove them.
Motorcraft ZD-11. They are about $12, so not worth the risk of using bad ones.
#14-021 Motorcraft ZD-11 Glow Plugs 94-03 7.3L - Engine / Injectors / UVC and Electrical - 1999-2003 Ford 7.3L
How long has the oil been in, and what are you using?
These motors really like timely 3k miles oil changes. Even if the oil is still clean, once you push much past that, it starts to get sheared down by the pressures in the HPOP/injection system, and the oil gets "thinner", This in turn can make the truck run rough/idle "funny" Of course, you should be using a quality diesel rated oil. In the warmer summer months, 15w40 would be a good choice. When it gets cold ( winter), I like to switch to 5w40 synthetic Rotella T6
For the glow plug module, get the upgraded oversize one from Diesel O-Rings. Its much bigger and and more robust. ( Don't worry. Follow the instructions and it will fit.)
Monster White-Rodgers Glow Plug Relay
Agree only OEM for glow plugs for sure.
While in there inspect the passenger side fuel line, the support bracket can rub thru it. Also if your HPOP hoses are original they can get crispy and pop, leaving you dead on the side of the road with a gallon of oil covering your engine. Fresh updated hoses from Riff Raff are just the ticket to ensure continued Ford motoring confidence.
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I'm planning on replacing the hpop seals, adding a coolant filter kit, changing the gp module and a air filter kit. This is my first diesel so I appreciate any advice. I'm buying from riffraff if that makes a difference

For my Ex, I just replaced all the glow plugs (preventive maintenance) and found the UVCH on the passenger side with burnt pins, so I replaced it. My Ex is closing in on 250k and those parts were all original.


These motors really like timely 3k miles oil changes. Even if the oil is still clean, once you push much past that, it starts to get sheared down by the pressures in the HPOP/injection system, and the oil gets "thinner", This in turn can make the truck run rough/idle "funny"
There are a lot of guys who regularly run more miles than 3000 between oil changes and their trucks are completely safe and have operated to spec. This opinion is extrapolated and based on posts by the trucks owners who have documented their actions here at FTE for many, many years.
A lot of guys will even send a sample of their oil to a lab to make sure the oil is still within spec, and to make sure there aren't any metals or contaminants suspended in the oil.

This ^^^ Save money. Like the HPOP, it's not a maintenance item.
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Jun 6, 2017 at 02:49 PM.
I'm not even sure the dash gauge is a real gauge, more like an on off switch. Can screw a pressure gauge in the hpop reservoir and watch LPO pressure













