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I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. Any ideas on what to look at next. no codes
Thanks
If you can prevent the stall by quickly shifting to "N", it would suggest the torque converter isn't unlocking when coming to a stop, sorta like forgetting to push the clutch in on a manual tranny.
OK, good feedback. You could have more than one problem. If you have a lit CEL/SES light, most autoparts stores will scan the vehicles computer for trouble codes at no cost, then post All code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.
If no trouble codes, since its still stalling when stopping or at idle & the IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed & is a common problem part in idle woes, put the IAC & its circuit/electrical connector pins & sockets, wiring, computer supplied operating voltage, the IAC itself, or the computer, on your suspect list.
You can try removing & cleaning the IAC internally with a plastic safe spray cleaner, like CRC QD, or MAF sensor spray cleaners & see if you get positive results, but cleaning may not last, it didn't for me on my 99 Ranger but was a good trouble shooting step. When cleaning, keep the IAC little black cap & electrical connector end facing up so the solvents don't run in & cause other mischief.
Most times the IAC doesn't set a code when it acts out.
Try cleaning the IAC & make sure its not stuck, but is free to move inside & its sealing surface is clean so it can properly seat.
The computer sends it a VPWR signal, whos duty cycle changes to cause it to remain open or closed longer as needed to bleed air around the throttle plate & thus control idle speed. So if its sticking closed because its faulty, or not opening as much as required, it'll mess with idle speed.
Ford recommends replacement when they begin to act out, as cleaning often doesn't last, but as I mentioned earlier cleaning is a good trouble shooting step before replacement imo. Let us know how it goes.
Ok I changed the iac valve. Seems to idle better and doesn't stall at lights.
It stalled when it was in park. Happens after it warms up and cools down for about an hr. Just like someone pulled the plug on an appliance or something.
Also changed the ect sensor. Any other ideas?
Thanks
Do you know if the spark plugs have ever been replaced? While 64K is not a lot of miles, the originals would be 13 years old if indeed they are still in there.
Have you tried cleaning up the fuel system? Every few months I dump a bottle of fuel injection system cleaner into a full tank of gas in order to "keep the pipes clean" and the pump lubricated.
And how about the fuel filter, has that ever been changed? How about the air filter?
Just some things for you to consider, if you haven't already.
While you were replacing the IAC did you have the battery B- cable disconnected so it could wipe the computers KAM stored idle strategy??? Then after hooking the battery back up did you do a cold & warm idle relearn routine???? If not, disconnect the battery B- cable for at least 5 min, or turn a light on or leave a door open so it'll discharge the KAM quicker.
When the engine suddenly shut down in park, were all of the dash warning lights still lit???? If not, try swapping the computer power relay for a like one not needed to run the engine, like the AC power relay & see how it goes.
I have a Ranger 2000 V6 5 speed, at a stop light it doesn't stall, but the idle does drop a little. (this is with the clutch in & or in neutral) Could this be a similar problem?
Well I took off the B- cable and did the relearn but now its
running rough again like it did b4 I changed the MAF sensor.
Try it give it gas and it doesn't want to rev up till it's warm.