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Hmm could really be a puddle of oil. As I said, I pulled the oil filter housing again, and couldn't see a washer at all.
Anyway I unolugged the connector from the hfcm and there was no more pulsating and vibration.
I ordered a fitting to check the fuel pressure. But it points to the hfcm/fuel pressure.
Just out of curiosity, how did your oil filter look when you removed it to look for the bent washer? Did it look straight, that is to say not crushed? And was the filter snapped in to the oil filter cap?
Just out of curiosity, how did your oil filter look when you removed it to look for the bent washer? Did it look straight, that is to say not crushed? And was the filter snapped in to the oil filter cap?
Brett do you see what Im talking about, the washer and in the radius of the washer looks bent too, I would assume the filter would press it back down ,but if not flat it could be an Issue for pressure also the radius tab it self. does'ent explaine the HFCM total different Issue.(maybe).Dan you are using OEM filters with your OEM cap right?.
There shouldn't be any washers in the oil filter cap, and I see what you're looking at but it looks like oil pooled up to me but perhaps I am looking at it wrong.
There shouldn't be any washers in the oil filter cap, and I see what you're looking at but it looks like oil pooled up to me but perhaps I am looking at it wrong.
I don't think that's the oil res unless he pulled the pipe and spring out I thought it was the inside of the fuel bowl, witch could exsplane the trouble with HFCM, IDK it sure looks jacked up to me.
The last time I pulled the oil filter, it looked very good. Not bent or so.
Know what? I'll pull the filter tomorrow again. Takes me 2 minutes. I'll take some pictures of it.
The last time I pulled the oil filter, it looked very good. Not bent or so.
Know what? I'll pull the filter tomorrow again. Takes me 2 minutes. I'll take some pictures of it.
Ok under further review, I went and pulled my oil filter and Its in the( Cap) not the oil res. thats where the bend is. your pics look like it was the fuel or oil res .
Only things you should have is the OEM filter and OEM cap which it looks like you have but the item In that last photo has me curious.
Secondary Fuel filter housing cap maybe?
What is that last picture of? Secondary Fuel filter housing cap maybe?
Exactly.
Oil Filter and cap are oem. And it was really a puddle of oil, and no washer.
I'll wait for my fitting, to check fuel pressure. Hope it's telling me something. I'm getting really frustrated.
That's weired, is the upper fuel bowl cap the same as the HFCM, in the old pics just wondering if the two pics were mixed because there were filters changed and I don't see the same image with the new pics although the numbers match.so Dan did unhooking the HFCM make the noise go away? and is the problem still there.
Problem is still there. The noise stopped after unhooking the HFCM. No the caps are all different. The upper fuel bowl is way smaller than the HFCM cap. The last pic is the upper fuel bowl cap.
Little update...
I replaced the HFCM with a new one from rockauto. What a mess!!! Still the same. All the values I checked with the Scan gauge seemed to be like they should. I think it's an injector. When I accelerate when engine is cold, I have misfires. Like one cylinder wouldn't fire proberly. I start hating that truck!!
Glow plugs stay on after the light goes out. They could be on up to two minutes. It depends on lots of variables. So, I'm not convinced it's not a gp issue.
It could be stiction (varnish buildup on injectors) that cause then to stick before the oil gets up to temp. Archoil and Revx are the midst common additives to try and help stiction. I've tried neither, but have done archoil on order. Either Archoil fuel or oil additive claims to clean the varnish off the injectors. I am very skeptical of that claim.
Just read thru this cause I was curious. I would like to give a tidbit. I guess if the op had time and it sounds like he has a general knowledge,,, you could pull both fender wells, and pull the glow plugs, one at a time, put an alligator clamp on the threaded part of the glow plug, the other end to ground, then cycle the key and watch for proper glow plug operation. I'm understanding the op doesn't have any diag equip,,, but can read codes. A cold start power balance would be great also.
If the vibrating is still there after a new HFCM,, have you happened to trace the fuel lines? If there was a hole,,, it'd b leaking. I'm thinking out loud. You can take the HFCM apart also. Did you just buy the pump?? Or the entire housing?
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