King Kerosin - Do you have an EGR valve and cooler? The reason I ask is this past winter my truck was kind of sluggish in the mornings and it was getting progressively annoying. After a few minutes of driving everything was fine. Pulled EGR valve for cleaning and everything was back to normal. Not sure how to explain, I don't think the valve really functions until 160 degrees ECT or EOT or something like that but cleaning the valve and vacuuming the intake made a huge difference. Comparing it to symptoms and videos online, I thought I was having stiction....

 

What is your fuel pressure like? Those filters look a bit old and dirty, it's very possible that you're starving for fuel and developing fuel-side stiction. You should make sure that your fuel pressure never goes below 45PSI, as that's the point where any prolonged use will begin to damage injectors.

If you do have low fuel pressure, make sure you replace the regulator first with the updated one (aka blue spring mod) because from what I've read/learned usually that's the first part in the fuel system to go.

EDIT: I had very similar behavior with my truck when my FPR went out.

 

Speaking of history repairs; is there a place on this site where I could give up my VIN for my truck to get the history??

 

I recently cleaned my EGR valve but could not really figure out how to get to the inside to clean out the housing. You were saying vaccuming the intake, can you explain?

 

Get your shopvac, some duct tape or etape, and a 10" or so piece of hose or tube. Put the end of the tube inside the end of your shopvac hose and tape it up so it doesn't leak. Turn on the shopvac and get the hose down the intake where the EGR valve came out. Sometimes chunks break free when you pull the valve. The main idea is that you get them out where the valve sits so they don't cause damage to the valve when you reinstall it.

Read a couple posts where some actually start the engine with the valve out, supposedly blows everything out, haven't ever tried it though.

 

Yeah ok, I like the ingenuity. I found myself scraping with a flathead the other day, I worked but could have been better

 

Hi,

I cleaned the EGR Valve. Looked pretty dirty. Put it back in, no change.
EGR and all that stuff are OEM.
I will change the fuel filter today, and see if I can check Fuel Pressure with my scanner.

Dan

 

Couple of things im curious about, On the fuel filters were those specs of dirt and white globule slime ball looking things on the filter when you removed it or did the filter get rolled around on the ground? The reason I ask is the filter primary filter really shouldn't have that much stuff on it, makes me wonder what the inside of the fuel tank looks like.


On the glow plug side of things, they will run up to 2 minutes even though the glow plug indicator goes out, I just went out and started my truck and the glow plug indicator stayed on for 7 seconds and the ambient temp is currently 72*, so I would at a minimum wait about 7 seconds or so before you try starting it.


After looking at the filters I would definitely want to know what the dynamic fuel pressure is, as mentioned earlier the fuel pressure needs to remain above 45 PSI at WOT ( Wide open throttle ). To read the fuel pressure you need to tap into the fuel system at the test port on the secondary fuel filter housing, the fitting is an M12x1.5 to 1/8" NPT.


On the FICM volts they need to stay above 45 volts from KOEO, cranking, idling and WOT. If it drops below 45 at anytime the FICM is starting to fail.


As fuel additive go it is really a good idea to run one with added lubricity as the lubricity of the fuel is diminished in the refining process to remove the sulfur from the fuel. I run the motorcraft cetane boost, the cetane boost helps the fuel burn better and also has added lubricity which is good for the injectors.

 

The dirt was on the filter, when I pulled it. I hope the tank is not contaminated with that slime.
Today I changed both of the fuel filters again. Nothing changed.
Ok, I'll have the fuel pressure checked the next week.
How do I check the Voltage of the FICM at WOT?
I don't believe there's something wrong with the glow plugs. I have the same trouble when engine is hot.
Once started, the engine idles fine, hot or cold engine.
The problem is, it runs rough (slightly accelerating) when engine is cold (1600 rpm - 2000rpm). When I give it some more throttle, it picks up speed better, but I hate to do that. Warmed up, the problem is gone.

What drives me crazy, sometimes the truck starts just fine.
Is someone in New Mexico, who could have a look at the truck? Not for free of course. But I don't wanna go to Ford, since they're not good in troubleshooting...

 

Go to auto zone and get yourself a Scan gauge it will be the best money you spent on the truck, that way you know what is going on........my 2cents

 

I got a ELM 327 in combination with Torque on a Galaxy S3. Works good for me.
What's better with the Scan Gauge?

 

The torque should have FICM main volts, so just have it hooked up and watch the FICM volts in all the situations mentioned particularly during cranking and at wide open throttle while driving.

 

This could be Turbo related, can you post the values for MAP,EBP,BARO,VGT at koeo, low, high 2500 rpm with truck warm.

 

Torque doesn't say anything about FICM Voltage.
And I have no idea how to find out values from the sensors 04badford posted.
But what I can tell you, It is a remanufactured turbocharger. There's a tag on it.
Maybe I have to do the walk to the dealer...

Oh, I found out, if I let the fuel pump cycle 2 times, the truck starts just fine. How long is your fuel pump running, until it stops? Mine seems to run a little too long. Maybe about 20-25 seconds. Is that normal?

 

20 seconds is about right.