Ok finally in the next week or two I'm going to have some time to install my Frx from Clay. I have read the instructions several times and have a few questions on the procedure.

1. I would like to remove the fuel bowl for the install. Just for the added work space. I did the FB O-rings last winter and can't remember if the 2 lines on the left " looking in from the top down " on the bowl opposite side as the fuel regulator have rubber orings. If i remove the bowl will i need replacement orings for this ????? or any other components if i remove it ???

2. The Square drive sockets. Where can one find these and what size is needed. I have read where someone removed the plugs with a square socket instead of a pair of locking pliers. My luck using the locking pliers id strip the head and never get them out.

3. Fuel spring.... Which one should i use ? My mods are in my sig. Just want to know what is best !

 

You can remove the fuel bowl for a little more room. Honestly it takes more time to remove the fuel bowl than it is worth. You will need to loosen the fuel bowl bolts, but the lines require the -4 Parker Sleeves. You can order more from Clay or Bob. I would have them on hand though. Sometimes they are fine for re-use, but they are too cheap to not have when you need them.

The 8 point sockets are available. I use a 5/16" one and it works ok. You are better off to hit up Sears and buy the 1/4" drive spline sockets. They recently came out with these and the 9/32" works best. At Christmas the set of standard and metric sockets with a ratchet was something like $14.99. These are very handy to have. Here is a LINKY. You will be best off with a swivel on the extension between the socket to get the angle right. The HPOP Reservoir is actually what is in the way. I use a double swivel extension like impact sockets.

Use the middle spring. It gives good results and will perform nicely.


Here is my set-up! It has performed more than a few FRx installs in no time!

 

I don't know what bolt y'all are talking about but I did mine with regular sockets and wrenches.

 

I need more parts to install this thing!?! They should have a warning on the website!

 

Parts? No. Tools to get in tight places? Yes.

 

He talked about sleeves and I got scared.

I already have swivels and neighbors with good tools. No worries there.

 

Woodnthings really knows his stuff - far more than I do. He mentioned having sleeves as a precaution, and they're cheap... so....

 

Original poster asked about removing the fuel bowl, that's where you would need additional parts. Same as if you removed the HPOP Reservoir!

Clay provides everything needed to do the job per the instructions. If you choose to deviate, you may need additional seals, that's all.

 

Thanks Ken, my dads a tv repair man and has a killer set of tools . That was a movie quote.

I appreciate the link and the insight on removing the bowl. I was just looking at some extra room to break that booger free w/o a wobble as sometimes i know it can cause things to strip by not having the right amount of down force on the driver and the wobble motion.

Anyway i do have a great set of tools - the square drivers but do have the drivers your referring to. Just don't want to get into a bind and needed a little insight.

As for the sleeves i was pretty sure that the lines had them but better safe than sorry, thats why i asked. I think now i will just leave the bowl alone.

And on the spring ...... Sounds good to me

Thanks Ken i appreciate it, Tug thanks for dropping in to see if i was covered and to all the others also

 

i did the frx with regular tools. by far the hardest part is getting the lines threaded in the ports. space is tight. getting each one took me about 2 hours to get the threads started.

i'd pay someone before i installed another one.

also i noticed zero difference after installation.

 

Nobody ever noticed a difference in their hot water when the manufacturers started installing safety releases on hot water tanks. There were just no more homes blowing up from the inside due to hot water tank failures. The FRx isn't a better-idle device... with exception of being installed on trucks without the Hutch mod already done. The FRx is the safety valve on the fuel system to augment the Hutch mod. It protects the injectors from unusual scenarios - like something (air, water, dirt) in the fuel that bypassed all the protection layers in the line. It provides an escape for the foreign substance to get back to the tank and force it to run the gauntlet yet again.

I would imagine it also aids in the even flow of fuel at high-throttle time.

 

Warning when u get to the back(drivers side) do not drop fitting if it falls it lands in between the block and up pipes and. The only way to get it out is strait up not fun wire coat hanger and don't drop again I was lucky on front side (passenger) Pb blaster the heck out of it.
When going the reg and spring the gold is good I ran black only Bc I lost gold somewhere down low on top of motor. The thicker smaller ring goes over the tubing not inside the of the frx idoit light for me that's how I lost gold spring

 

I have the Frx and the Hpx on my 02. I agree that installing the Frx was a pain for sure. I did the Hpx first, then did the Frx about a year later. I do not have the Hutch and Harpoon mod done. I never noticed a difference after installing either of those cross-overs, but, I have the most quiet 7.3 that I have ever heard. I have the mods listed in my signature, tunes are from Swamps. For me, I would do both of those mods in a heartbeat. I know after the install, it takes time to get the air out of the systems. I believe those mods have something to do with it being as quiet as it is. I should do the H and H mod, as well as get the updated Frx too. I have the first generation in my truck.