FRx install observations
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 775
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From: Williamston, MI
FRx install observations
Did the install last night. I searched all day yesterday for tips. Lots of good info out there. Here's my input.
I cracked the fuel rail plugs loose first to ensure I didn't get part way through the install and have to undo anything to get the truck back on the road.
Removing the EBPS allowed better access to the fuel bowl bolts on the front of the HPOP. And showed me I need to clean the sensor and tube again.
I sprayed PB on the fuel plugs early in the day and removed them with zero trouble with a 5/16ths 8 point 1/4 drive. Based on my research I was ready to break out the big guns on these but I was very lucky. Two plugs out in less than five minutes.
Some say to move the AC unit. This would have made the install much easier but I was able to get the boss and line in there. Just barely though.
My fuel pressure gauge is not working now so I wanted to be sure to get the spring in correctly. I used a small mirror and flashlight to view through the end that the return fuel line connects to. I was able to see first attempt at aligning the spring was incorrect. It was hard to see if it was aligned properly. Second time was able to see the spring is positively lined up right. It's very obvious. Try viewing from that angle prior to install of the meter block. You'll see what I mean.
All done, first three cycles of key/fuel pump I could hear air return to the tank. two more cycles, check for leaks - none. Fire it up and there was an immediately noticeable difference in idle. Much smoother. Have not had a chance to drive it yet but expect the best.
I cracked the fuel rail plugs loose first to ensure I didn't get part way through the install and have to undo anything to get the truck back on the road.
Removing the EBPS allowed better access to the fuel bowl bolts on the front of the HPOP. And showed me I need to clean the sensor and tube again.
I sprayed PB on the fuel plugs early in the day and removed them with zero trouble with a 5/16ths 8 point 1/4 drive. Based on my research I was ready to break out the big guns on these but I was very lucky. Two plugs out in less than five minutes.
Some say to move the AC unit. This would have made the install much easier but I was able to get the boss and line in there. Just barely though.
My fuel pressure gauge is not working now so I wanted to be sure to get the spring in correctly. I used a small mirror and flashlight to view through the end that the return fuel line connects to. I was able to see first attempt at aligning the spring was incorrect. It was hard to see if it was aligned properly. Second time was able to see the spring is positively lined up right. It's very obvious. Try viewing from that angle prior to install of the meter block. You'll see what I mean.
All done, first three cycles of key/fuel pump I could hear air return to the tank. two more cycles, check for leaks - none. Fire it up and there was an immediately noticeable difference in idle. Much smoother. Have not had a chance to drive it yet but expect the best.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 94
From: Delta, CO
If you take it out on the road & drive it like you stole it to get all the air purged you will really notice a difference in the lack of cackle when it's idling.
At least that was my experience.
At least that was my experience.
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