My fuel bowl started dumping fuel into my valley with this last cold snap. Luckily i already have the fuel bowl o-rings and HPOP o-rings. I am going to replace the fuel bowl orings tonight and thought that would be an ideal time to do the. HPOP orings as well.
1) is this wise?
2) Can the HPOP orings be done without the little tool?
3) Any kernels of wisdom for me and my project tonight?

Ryan

 

Last time I did a full fuel bowl rebuild (helping a friend)...we did it in about 2 hours.

Depending on which O-rings you are changing in the HPOP then it could take a while longer. A full o-ring job requires pump removal. Is that what you plan on doing? Are your HPOP o-rings leaking now? If not, then you might want to tackle that job some other day.


At any rate, tips for fuel bowl rebuild....
Disconnect EBP sensor connector and loosen the serpentine belt...makes accessing the two bowl bolts much easier.
Use some bungee cords to hold back the fuel inlet and return lines once loosened...makes it easier to lift out the bowl without hanging up on stuff.
After the fuel bowl is removed, stick a dental pick inside each compression nut and unscrew.....you should end up with the little broken piece of Parker Sleeve that was hiding inside there. If you don't remove all the old sleeve material then it will leak after re-assembly.
Leave the brass fittings alone that are in the bowl. There are no o-rings for those items so leave them alone and don't risk damaging the threads.
Re-attach the FPR to the bowl before re-installing the bowl assembly, it's much easier that way. Hold the FRP housing to the bowl while you tighten the bolts down. Don't use the bolts to pull the housing towards the bowl or you could strip the threads or break the bolt boss on the housing.
Try not to over-tighten the fuel bowl lid...the housing may crack so be careful. I always just hand tighten the lid and I've never had any sealing issues. I also loosen it by hand as well. Seems like everyone else uses some sort of tool but I've always been able to remove and install the lid by hand.
Make sure you get all the PTFE residue off the sealing surfaces when replacing o-rings for the fuel drain and WIF/Heater assembly.

Good luck!

 

Got the bowl rebuilt. Two hours on the nose. Thanks for the pointers. Didnt mess with the HPOP. Saw that the pump was actually a reman unit so they should have been replaced at that time and the valley had no oil to speak of. So let sleeping dogs lie as my momma said.

Again thanks for the tips Shake.

Ryan

 

If you have the original braided metal factory HPOP hoses, I'd suggest you go ahead and just replace them with the newer style. We've seen a few high pressure hoses blow over the years. Never fun to be stranded on the side of the road.

 

The hoses appeared to be rubber, not steel braided. Does that mean they more than likely have been replaced?

Ryan

 

Yes. The OEM hoses were steel braided and then covered with plastic split loom (same stuff used for wiring harnesses). The replacement hoses are still steel braided but have a brown shrink wrapping over the braids to keep stray strands of steel from harming other components. Then it still has split loom on it as well. Here is a photo of the new style.