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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #91  
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Wanted to give you guys an update. The caps are rusted so bad inside that they cant be removed even after soaking them in PB blaster for a day so I decided to try and cut off the cap where the clip snaps in. My hopes were to get it the top half cut off so i could press it back through do the same on the other side then it would come out. After cutting the cap down to the bearings we realized that the cap is rusted to the bearings and the bearings are rusted to the ujoint body. Needless to say the whole end is now gonna come off, apparently my grandfathers neighbor has a torch so this weekend we might try torching off the end we didn't try to cut up with the cut off wheel and just press the other side back through. Both caps will not budge and they were both soaked for a day. Also on the stub shaft side which still spun one cap was rusted to the shaft so the top of the cap actually broke off when removing it. I used a socket to drive the rest of the cap out after I removed the other side. I'll post a picture of the one still intact cap later tonight lol.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #92  
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I had to cut one out before, after months of a mechanic saying they were not bad.

 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:36 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by thomabb
I had to cut one out before, after months of a mechanic saying they were not bad.

Same exact situation...if he had just replaced them however many months ago I wouldn't be dealing with this right now. I always trust this forum and I had a pretty strong feeling it was my u-joints but he kept resisting no matter how much i tried to press him to fix them. He could have replaced them when he did my ball joints...which i wish i did my sell now since i have it basically to that point.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #94  
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Break out the Fire Wrench! Be careful not to over heat the yoke. Have water or a soaked rag ready to cool off the yokes. Check the new cap fit. If loose you may have to "stake" the inside of the yoke surfaces?...sparingly If its loose enough the shaft may need to be replaced as no amount of staking would be safe at this point.
Sure want to know if this solves the problem for you. Never heard of u joints doing this on a driven vehicle...yes one that has sat for years, under water, not a daily driver. They will usually fall apart first, not seize.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
Wanted to give you guys an update. The caps are rusted so bad inside that they cant be removed even after soaking them in PB blaster for a day so I decided to try and cut off the cap where the clip snaps in. My hopes were to get it the top half cut off so i could press it back through do the same on the other side then it would come out. After cutting the cap down to the bearings we realized that the cap is rusted to the bearings and the bearings are rusted to the ujoint body. Needless to say the whole end is now gonna come off, apparently my grandfathers neighbor has a torch so this weekend we might try torching off the end we didn't try to cut up with the cut off wheel and just press the other side back through. Both caps will not budge and they were both soaked for a day. Also on the stub shaft side which still spun one cap was rusted to the shaft so the top of the cap actually broke off when removing it. I used a socket to drive the rest of the cap out after I removed the other side. I'll post a picture of the one still intact cap later tonight lol.
How did you soak in PB? Spray?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:46 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Never heard of u joints doing this on a driven vehicle...yes one that has sat for years, under water, not a daily driver.
You are lucky. I have had it happen to me 2 times on 2 different trucks, and I don't off-road.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #97  
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I soaked them, I'll most likely let my grandfathers neighbor do it because he uses it all the time, I've never used one before lol. He works on cars as well so I'm not nervous about him damaging the yoke. I was shocked when i popped the caps out and then tried to remove them with no luck even after soaking them we couldn't get them to break free and turn a little.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 03:19 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
I soaked them, I'll most likely let my grandfathers neighbor do it because he uses it all the time, I've never used one before lol. He works on cars as well so I'm not nervous about him damaging the yoke. I was shocked when i popped the caps out and then tried to remove them with no luck even after soaking them we couldn't get them to break free and turn a little.
How did you soak them.........spray?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #99  
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Spray then soaked a rag and wrapped it again around the bottom of the caps as best i could and laid it down so that they were parallel to my work bench.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Never heard of u joints doing this on a driven vehicle...yes one that has sat for years, under water, not a daily driver. They will usually fall apart first, not seize.
Effectively, if the front end isn't spun up and ran through its operating range it's being allowed to sit.

What happens is the owner doesn't do the monthly drive with the hubs locked in with the center in 2wd to spin up and warm the front end redistributing the lubricants and working out moisture and condensation.

What happens is the joint that moves during steering stays looser while the static joints seize. Least that will happen is the seals dry out.

Replaced the steering box in my buddies F350 Super Duty, locked in one hub for the test drive, had to pull over immediately because of the wobble. I filled my pants. Unlocked the hub and the steering works as it should.

Had to tell him that the truck would be fine long as he didn't lock the hubs, but if he goes to use 4 wheel it could get expensive. Shafts are meant to be twisted and torqued, not bent.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #101  
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Yeah I never use tge 4x4 after about spril but after replacing these I will cycle it monthly from now on.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by NEO_Mark
Effectively, if the front end isn't spun up and ran through its operating range it's being allowed to sit.

What happens is the owner doesn't do the monthly drive with the hubs locked in with the center in 2wd to spin up and warm the front end redistributing the lubricants and working out moisture and condensation.

What happens is the joint that moves during steering stays looser while the static joints seize. Least that will happen is the seals dry out.

Replaced the steering box in my buddies F350 Super Duty, locked in one hub for the test drive, had to pull over immediately because of the wobble. I filled my pants. Unlocked the hub and the steering works as it should.

Had to tell him that the truck would be fine long as he didn't lock the hubs, but if he goes to use 4 wheel it could get expensive. Shafts are meant to be twisted and torqued, not bent.
Curious...anything about this in the service manual?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:41 PM
  #103  
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I believe in our manuals it reads you should uses 4wd occasionally to keep the front axle lubed....... We'll my 77 f150 manual reads that can't quit remember if the super duty manual reads it probably not. I do put my truck in 4wd at least twice a month for a mile or so on a straight road to keep the races motor and front end turning and lubed so when I need it it's going to work

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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #104  
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I don't have my manual but I have always heard that the 4x4 should be cycled. I just cut the u-joint out and Have all the parts prepped for POR15 hopefully later today. Its raining so its taking forever for the parts to dry after degreasing then and using the metal ready (sitting in my garage).
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #105  
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Mark that makes perfict sense and is great advice. Most of my 4wd experience is with full timers like Jeeps and others which are always moving.
 
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