Wierd Steering Issue
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
I just ordered the parts now, I have honestly been fighting and trying to tell the mechanic that its the u-joints but he still refuses so my process is going to be U-joints, then steering box and if the problem still persists the pump. I id not doubt it was the u-joints and now i'm just gonna buy the tools to do i myself. Like the old saying goes, if you want something done right do it yourself. As of right now the truck is to dangerous to drive so I will get it home today as safe as i can and not drive it util i replace the parts. My 150 was dieing all the time until I realized it was a bad terminal so I'm going to fix it tonight and then I can drive that instead.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
Agreed with thomabb...the simple least expensive route is the Ujoints. You'll get a good look at the brakes too. Dont let the calipers dangle by the hoses. Always support the caliper with a bungee or wire etc...Soft lines should be replaced if they look suspicious. When troubleshooting I always encourage starting simple, basic and least expensive and escalate from there. I've been wrenching for many years and have never heard of Ujoints causing such drastic negative road reactions unless something else was way out of whack. I suppose if the joints rusted tight it is plausible. Please take pictures of the joints like
sammie did.
This is happening when your in 2wd right?
How many miles are on this rig?
As a side note; if you do find out it is the box Id recommend replacing the pump and lines too. If there is any errant metal debris in either it will send it into the new part putting you right back where you started except a little lighter in the wallet. You can try flushing the hell out of it. It depends just how bad it has come apart, its a judgement call. Did you call the Red Hat or other steering gurus to pick their brains? Not a bad idea.
sammie did.
This is happening when your in 2wd right?
How many miles are on this rig?
As a side note; if you do find out it is the box Id recommend replacing the pump and lines too. If there is any errant metal debris in either it will send it into the new part putting you right back where you started except a little lighter in the wallet. You can try flushing the hell out of it. It depends just how bad it has come apart, its a judgement call. Did you call the Red Hat or other steering gurus to pick their brains? Not a bad idea.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
Agreed with thomabb...the simple least expensive route is the Ujoints. You'll get a good look at the brakes too. Dont let the calipers dangle by the hoses. Always support the caliper with a bungee or wire etc...Soft lines should be replaced if they look suspicious. When troubleshooting I always encourage starting simple, basic and least expensive and escalate from there. I've been wrenching for many years and have never heard of Ujoints causing such drastic negative road reactions unless something else was way out of whack. I suppose if the joints rusted tight it is plausible. Please take pictures of the joints like
sammie did.
This is happening when your in 2wd right?
How many miles are on this rig?
As a side note; if you do find out it is the box Id recommend replacing the pump and lines too. If there is any errant metal debris in either it will send it into the new part putting you right back where you started except a little lighter in the wallet. You can try flushing the hell out of it. It depends just how bad it has come apart, its a judgement call. Did you call the Red Hat or other steering gurus to pick their brains? Not a bad idea.
sammie did.
This is happening when your in 2wd right?
How many miles are on this rig?
As a side note; if you do find out it is the box Id recommend replacing the pump and lines too. If there is any errant metal debris in either it will send it into the new part putting you right back where you started except a little lighter in the wallet. You can try flushing the hell out of it. It depends just how bad it has come apart, its a judgement call. Did you call the Red Hat or other steering gurus to pick their brains? Not a bad idea.
Just installed a second red head on my truck, they don't have to warranty many because they are usually sound but the one I had did fail about 8 months. When I pulled the lines today there was obvious ground up metal, I also replaced the pump which was screeching. I am guessing a recirculating ball met it's demise and took out the pump as collateral damage. So long story short, if you get to the point where you are going to replace the gearbox, just do the pump and lines at the same time, pumps are $60 and the lines are $15 and be done with it, not worth a problem left behind in the pump or lines taking out your new box.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Will do I just hit 99k on the od last week. If I end up replacing the box how much doesca red head go for? I have not called red hat or anyone yet I plan on it if the u joints don't work though. The steering has been flushed about 4 times now. The mechanic did it every time u brought it in. All of this does happen in 2wd but I did try playing with 4x4. I locked my hubs then got back in and before engaging the tcase I turned the wheel only to hear a loud clunk. After driving around it seemed somewhat normal but one I turned the tcase on the steering wheel jerked left and tight while driving straight on pavement. It has never done that before but when turning it yried to fight back and go straight which is normal when in 4x4 on pavement
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
Will do I just hit 99k on the od last week. If I end up replacing the box how much doesca red head go for? I have not called red hat or anyone yet I plan on it if the u joints don't work though. The steering has been flushed about 4 times now. The mechanic did it every time u brought it in. All of this does happen in 2wd but I did try playing with 4x4. I locked my hubs then got back in and before engaging the tcase I turned the wheel only to hear a loud clunk. After driving around it seemed somewhat normal but one I turned the tcase on the steering wheel jerked left and tight while driving straight on pavement. It has never done that before but when turning it yried to fight back and go straight which is normal when in 4x4 on pavement
It's Red Head Red-Head Steering Gears - Custom Rebuilt Steering Gear Boxes in USA not Red Hat and about $260 with a $200 core that is refunded when the old box is returned. Don't quote my prices though. Those are my best recollection and may not be accurate. I would recommend a phone call to them and a firm price quote and core requirements. If you are going to do the gearbox, spring another $75 and do the pump and lines as the same time.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,144
Likes: 1
From: ALPHA ,NJ
I just bought a redhead and the box and Pittman arm shipped to my house was 634$ when I ship the old one back it will be 200$ less. And i hope the lines aren't 15$ because mine had to be replaced because they were rusted to the box and it cost me 330$ for both lines. Did not replace the pump. Granted I was not having any steering issues just a leaking box so I don't think I had much metal if any.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
I just bought a redhead and the box and Pittman arm shipped to my house was 634$ when I ship the old one back it will be 200$ less. And i hope the lines aren't 15$ because mine had to be replaced because they were rusted to the box and it cost me 330$ for both lines. Did not replace the pump. Granted I was not having any steering issues just a leaking box so I don't think I had much metal if any.
And on the hoses you didn't really pay $300 for hoses did you?
Here is one of mine $20 retail at O'Reilly - you can find them even cheaper online if you look.
Gates® 365437 - Power Steering Return Hose Assembly | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Here is the other one from Amazon for $15
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Thanks sammie that's around what I expected. Lol I read red hat further down and I thought there were two different place's. Hopefully the ujoints will be in by Friday, the tools I ordered will be in Wednesday...gotta love amazon prime!
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Tewksbury, MA
I got everything but the seals i ordered in today...the seals will be in Monday unfortunately. Here are the pics of what i got though.
spicer greasable u-joints
Seal installer
U-joint and ball joint press
Scotchbrite pads to clean the areas around the seals
Cotter pins
a brass and steel punch set
wheel chocks instead of putting wood behind the wheels
6" 3 jaw puller
Pitman arm puller and 3" 3 jaw puller
Snap ring removal pliers
And i got a 3 ton floor jack bt i forgot to take a picture last night. I will probably start taking the front end apart Sunday evening and then start reassembling Monday when i get the seals after i get out of school.
spicer greasable u-joints
Seal installer
U-joint and ball joint press
Scotchbrite pads to clean the areas around the seals
Cotter pins
a brass and steel punch set
wheel chocks instead of putting wood behind the wheels
6" 3 jaw puller
Pitman arm puller and 3" 3 jaw puller
Snap ring removal pliers
And i got a 3 ton floor jack bt i forgot to take a picture last night. I will probably start taking the front end apart Sunday evening and then start reassembling Monday when i get the seals after i get out of school.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
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From: Tewksbury, MA
Update, i got the drivers side down to the bearing assembly but i needed a 1/2" extension and by the time i found it i was out of day light so i had to wrap up there tomorrow i plan to get it apart and start to put it back together. It's my parents 25th anniversary so i don't know how far i will get with it. Also after reviewing Jason's tech articles the thrust washers and hexagon washer behind my hubs were installed wrong after (im assuming after) i got the ball-joints fixed. The order was hex shaped washer, thrust washer thrust washer...those little things **** me off 
. what do you guys think of these rotors?
Crappy pictures sorry phone doesn't do well in low light but there is a decent amount of dark spots on the back and front, more so the back side.
. what do you guys think of these rotors?
Crappy pictures sorry phone doesn't do well in low light but there is a decent amount of dark spots on the back and front, more so the back side.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
See if someone will turn them down for you. Are you installing new pads? If so turn them. If they were not pulsating and your reusing good pads you can just knock off the ridge on the outer circumference and go. Scuff the usable pads with sandpaper 100-120 grit on a flat surface. I always try to save the OEM rotors as long as possible. Because the replacements are friggin chineasium. Stay from anything china if at all possible including tools.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
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From: Tewksbury, MA
I didn't get a good look at the pads yet but there is no pulsating when braking. I usually buy good quality tools and parts unless they are given o me lol. Rather be safe then sorry, i got the nuts holding the wheel hub assemble off this morning, after work i will remove it and start to pull the shaft out. I didn't check the pads yet because it was getting dark and i removed he whole caliper and pad assembly no just the caliper first so ill remove the pads and take a look today. I'll have to fond somewhere to turn them down for me around me. While everything is off tomorrow I am going to coat it in POR because I have class until 9pm so i wont make any progress aside from what i can do inside under the lights in my garage. I there is anything that should absolutely not be coated please let me know, obviously areas where seals are installed and anything with threads i wont coat.