Dont put POR anywhere on the rotor or the front face of the axle hub. Use anti-seize between those two surfaces...sparingly. Lube the lug nuts and torque per the ops manual. If the rotors weren't pulsating you dont have to surface them if you scuff and reuse the pads. If you find you need to replace the pads then Id suggest you do have them turned or replaced. Tell the lathe operator only take off whats needed no more..."skin" them.
When you turn the rotors you make them thinner and they can warp easier. Save yourself some money. If the pads and rotors look serviceable for at least another 10-15K IMO leave them alone for now and save the money,

 

Thanks droldsmorland, do you have any idea's how to get the ujoint c clips off? mine are rusty and I cant really get any leverage anywhere. Also where are you referring to on the front face of the axle hub? Sorry First repair I've really done so I don't know technical names of anything. Are you referring to where the dust shield and wheel bearing assembly mount? I sincerely appreciate the help.

 

Too rusty for snap ring pliers?

Then just break them or cut them off. I have used a hammer and a chisel - careful not to hit the yoke! I have also used a Dremel with a burr bit on it and just cut them off flush with the yoke edge then used a hammer and socket or punch to drive them out. Removed some really rusty U joints on my truck when I first got it. Do whatever it takes to free the joint just don't beat on that yoke. This is the inside of one, so you can imagine what the outside clips looked like, the two that aren't in the bottom of the box met their maker by other means.

 

x2 what sammie said. Hammer, chisel, heat, PB Blaster what ever it takes. But as noted do not damage the yoke or the shaft will be junk. The clips most likely will come out in pieces. Sometimes it helps to hammer the ujoint towards the opposite side your working on with a socket. One that fits inside the clip circumference and has good contact with the cup. One or two solid strikes with a 2lb maul (hammer) should do it. This will allow the cup to move slightly away from the clip hopefully enough to allow the clip to loosen up to allow removal. Then drive the ujoint the opposite direction and remove the opposite clip and repeat with the other set of cups. If your really struggling take it to a drive shaft shop with the new joints and have them installed. It will be money well spent vs damaging a yoke/shaft. There are several precautions one must take to not damage the yokes & shafts. Hard to explain with out visuals. If you have never performed this repair before You Tube is your friend here unless you can find someone well schooled with ujoint removal/installation to give you some hands on advice. Be sure to clean the clip grooves out so they are square to allow the new clip to fully seat. Also its tricky to install the new cups with out losing the needle bearings or catching one under the cap. You'll know because the cap will not seat fully. Dont beat it like most will do or the joints junk. You cant see it. Its a feel. It has to be taken apart and you must start over. I usually put a clean finger of additional grease in the caps and run my finger around it to secure the needles to the cup wall. Not too much grease or the cap will hydro lock and wont fully seat. Also, once the ujoints installed you have to make sure that there isnt any bind in either direction. If so you gently tap the cups towards one side or the other and repeat until it operates smoothly.
To answer the POR application question...do not apply it to anything thats a moving part. Specifically the back side of the rotor where it touches the axle flange and the face of the axle flange where the studs are. If those two surfaces are not 100% paralle the wheel will wobble. Always make sure those two surfaces are clean of debris, grease, rust etc...Apply a thin layer of anti-seize between the two to prevent rust and allow for easy removal in the future. Same goes for the back side of the rim where it touches the front side of the rotor, especially with alloy wheels.

 

Thanks guys! I have been following Jason's tech article here 2004 F250 Ball Joint Replacement only part he doesnt show is removing the clips lol. If it wasn't for this id be so lost. Also will do with the POR I figured since its apart I might as well paint what i can to prevent rusting in the future. there did not seem to be any bind in the current u-joints installed but i will find out what shape they are in once i get it out tonight hopefully. I will most likely take the hammer and chisel approach, they are soaking in PB blaster at home now I degreased them over night didn't soak them just sprayed them and soak in marine clean.

 

Unfortunately after fighting the u-joint for the past half hour it wont budge, i got the clips out but the hand press i got isn't going to cut it. My gf's dad might have a hydraulic press that i can use if not...idk what ill do probably go by my mechanic lol.

 

Soak it overnight (with a rag soaked) in penetrating oil and use 2 sockets and a big hammer on concrete.

 

Will do, I sprayed them and let them sit for about 20 min but ill let them soak all day tomorrow while I'm at work.

 

Support the opposite cup with a larger diameter socket one which will allow the old cup to fit into when your hammering the other side towards it. This socket should support the yoke as well. Put the smaller diameter socket on top. Hold the shaft and strike. Make sure everthings parallel so the strike force is efficient. I have not yet experienced a joint that wont come out. Even the big rig joints I've done in the past. Use wood to support the spline end to prevent any damage. The fire wrench can help too but dont get it too hot only 2-250*F then quench with water then hammer away.
You say the old joints dont exhibit bind...that would conclude that the problem lays in the other items we have mentioned in this thread.

 

Once u pulled it out and started playing with it i figured it may not be my issue and its probably the steering box/PS pump but I still have not taken the passenger side apart so we will see what happens i guess. I don't have school tonight so i will make more progress and post up pics of the u-joints once i get them out. All this time i thought my F150 got decent MPG but after driving it around while my 250 is down its horrible! lol I fill my 250 less often, i filled the 150 twice already this week Once Saturday and once Teusday (from E to 1/2) and I'm on E again today lol I figured a RCSB 6 cylinder would get more than my 250...oh well i guess.

 

Just spraying is about 10% as effective as soaking or attaching a penetrant soaked rag. Most people think they can just spray the heck out of something with pb blaster and it be fine but if you soak a rag in cheaper penetrating oil and attach it to the object with duct tape and let it sit overnight the effect increases tenfold. There is a time factor there and just spraying takes about 3 seconds and 99% of it goes to waste. I have never had a u-joint that wouldn't come apart..........there are ways of making them talk, lol

 

I'm researching steering box issues and something I read in this thread needs comment. That being:

"I'm pushing for (this particular answer)"

There is quite a bit of forensics in mechanics.

As Gil Grissom says, you don't get to choose where the evidence takes you.

I'm researching an issue in by friends steering, he wants it to be the pump or U-Joints, unfortunately for his wallet everything is pointing to a pooched spool valve assembly, just like the truck in this thread.

'01 F350 Super Duty turns left so far, stops turning, but if going a hair back to the right then left again continues to turn. Only at low speed (up to 25 or so) but you don't turn a truck that large that sharp at high speed unless you're into undue excitement.

 

Just an update, I got the drivers side back together and now I'm planning on getting the passenger side apart and the u-joint out by Friday so i can hopefully reassemble it Saturday. My passenger side definitely needs a new rotor its worse than the Drivers side but I will hold off until i get the steering sorted out first. Also I painted the Drivers side parts with POR and not the surfaces previously listed. I still have a strong feeling that its not the u-joints now, also i noticed that I'm missing a seal on the passenger side...this **** is starting to really **** me off its not hard to take something apart and put it back together the way it came apart . I guess other people don't love their cars as much as i do either though lol.

 

If by seal you mean the large O ring at the outer end of the front axle by the ujoint don't worry about it. I just cut both of mine off because they were flopping around.

 

Yeah it was the dust seal, idk that stuff just pisses me off though, i got new ones anyway but for instance my passenger side window goes half way down the goes really slow. I took it to the mechanic and they replaced the whole assembly because they couldn't figure it out. They didn't check it gave it back and it still did it so i took it back the replaced it again and same thing only that time they broke my door panel which set me off. My window still does it so i paid $200 for them to break my door panel for me basically. I wanted them to replace the panel but since it was a family friend my parents refused... Naturally I'm always skeptical of mechanics now lol